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The best laid plans....

Flaming river makes a sliding adapter for columns.

I like the car but I am confused why you are hung up on the Fox body rear suspension. It sucked in the Mustang and packaging in your car is going to be harder than you think. Especially for how close the rear end is to the body. A few years ago I hit a huge pothole on the highway and the rear end bit the body in my Total car so I happen to have a picture of how much room there is from the rear end to the seat back. There is very little room back there for Mustang upper links as they sit so high. There is some lower versions of 4 bars and 4 links but not using stock components. You could raise the seat for more clearance but my car sits pretty high now and that is not one of your requirements for the build.

Just my thoughts. I know sometimes I think stuff up and make some drawings thinking there is lots of room only to find out when I look at the car I didn't realize things were so tight. Good luck with the build.




I've seen those Flaming River kits, but unfortunately they are WAY over priced...close to $400. I think I'll be ok with just the quick release wheel and careful positioning of the column. If not, I already have an idea for using a modified version of a column swing design used on sand buggies.

One of the reasons I went with a Fox T-Bird rear end is the tire clearance issue with the body mounted as far back as I want...it's 61"+ wide. The reasons for keeping the Fox rear suspension configuration are cost, simplicity and handling. I'll be using all the original axle bracketry...eliminating the cost of bracketry and welding. I know the original Fox suspension has a bad rep...but that is mainly due to the the factory seriously compromising the suspension design with cheap control arms and bushings. I already have a set of Granitelli racing adjustable control arms, and I plan on using Johnny Joints to give better articulation and eliminate the bushing issues. Adding to all of that, I have a set of designed for handling mono-tube gas shocks. Even using the factory control arms,bushings and shocks, for a cruiser, the stock Fox setup should be an improvement over a 2 link radius rod set up.

As far as the attachment points go, the upper has turned out to be the easiest...a pocket at the base of the frame kick up. The problem with the lowers is that the attachment points fall below and several inches out from the side of the frame. I have an idea that would work, but I'm not liking the aesthetics...I'll keep working on that. Right now I have the complete axle with control arms set up on stands to get exact dimensions and and visualizing. No doubt there will be future issues before all is said and done, but I see no reason they should be any more difficult to resolve than with any other triangulated 4 link set up...knock on wood.
 
I think you'll be happy with the air bags. I have them on my car. I don't use them to lower the car, they were chosen for ride, load leveling/maintaining suspension travel and keeping the stance the same all the time. I used an auto leveling sensor/control off of a Cadillac. I combined that with some small (1/8") 12 volt stainless valves and a small Viar compressor. You don't need an air tank for leveling and load control. You might need one for what you want to do, otherwise it will take a long time to get the car up to ride height. My compressor runs 30-40 seconds to level the car with no tank.

I mounted the air valves directly on the bags with brass fittings. This went a long way in avoiding leakdown. My car can sit for weeks without leaking down. I also used DOT approved tubing and brass push to connect tubing fittings. They cost more, but are designed for 18 wheeler service and have been trouble free.

I used the auto leveling system because the pressure in the bags varies with load. A pressure gauge would work if you checked the pressure at several loads. The Cadillac system just looks at the position of the sensing arm and adds or releases air as needed, no gauge needed.

Also, you could fab your own swing away column. There are swiveling ball mounts for the lower end of a steering column. You could mount the upper part of the column on a sliding track of some kind with a latch to keep it in place (probably need a ball mount there too). The steering shaft would need a telescoping joint. These are available from Borgeson.

+1 on not using the Fox suspension. No real advantage. The work involved would kill any money savings IMO. The roll center is nearly as high as a typical T panhard bar. The arms are heavy for a T.

Mike

I doubt I'll be going with any kind of auto leveling set up. I want to keep it as simple as possible. I recently saw on TV a set up that sounds like it would be a good fit...the controller had 3 programmable preset levels. For me it would be normal ride height, kneeling for getting in and out, and the last setting for pulling the trailer.

Your mentioning a sliding track lit the little light bulb over over my head! I've been planning on using a T-slot extruded aluminum beam for support behind the dash and to suspend the column from. It just dawned on me that they have a whole line of linear motion bracketry for sliding, and latches for locking the sliding stuff in position......Hmmmmm
 
Bill... We have talked about several rear suspension systems before. If you want to run the Explorer unit because you have it you might consider converting it to a three link. Not having one here I can't give you any dimensions for the lower link brackets but the upper can be handled quit easily. You have CAD so give it some thought. You might be a lot closer then you realize. Take care.

George

Up until I had the T-Bird rear end sitting in front of me, with the control arms still on it, I had worked up plans for a pseudo 3-link configuration using a bent wishbone for the upper link, and another set of plans using a lower wishbone in a Satchel Link configuration. But the more I looked at the set up I had in front of me, the more I saw no reason for reinventing the wheel I had in front of me.
 
Up until I had the T-Bird rear end sitting in front of me, with the control arms still on it, I had worked up plans for a pseudo 3-link configuration using a bent wishbone for the upper link, and another set of plans using a lower wishbone in a Satchel Link configuration. But the more I looked at the set up I had in front of me, the more I saw no reason for reinventing the wheel I had in front of me.

No problem Bill. I just thought you had a clearance issue with the triangular 4 bar setups. If it works then go with it as it will pretty much be a self contained system needing nothing more the shocks. Take care.

George
 
I saw Ron from RPM down in Moultrie Ga last weekend at a car show when he brought my frame down. He told me his fiberglass guy is doing wider bodies now. I believe he said they recently did one ten inches wider than stock. 10" cowl stretch in length, now ten inches wider. That would be a LOT of room for someone who needed it. Put cowl steering in that puppy to get the column out of your way and SHAQ could drive that thing!
 
I saw Ron from RPM down in Moultrie Ga last weekend at a car show when he brought my frame down. He told me his fiberglass guy is doing wider bodies now. I believe he said they recently did one ten inches wider than stock. 10" cowl stretch in length, now ten inches wider. That would be a LOT of room for someone who needed it. Put cowl steering in that puppy to get the column out of your way and SHAQ could drive that thing!

I often wondered why someone didn't buld a longer AND wider body- seems like it wouldn't be much more work and would have lots of interest.

Ron: if this is true, post up pics of this puppy!
 
It is true we are making them up to 10" wider now. This one does not have the door.
IMG_20141102_132358439_zps3e23bde1.jpg

IMG_20141102_132349720_zpsaed74e67.jpg
 
It is true we are making them up to 10" wider now. This one does not have the door.
IMG_20141102_132358439_zps3e23bde1.jpg

IMG_20141102_132349720_zpsaed74e67.jpg

Now I'm REALLY wishing I didn't already have a body <sigh>
 
Bill...that's what they call salesmanship. Now you need to sell yours to someone that wants a regular sized body and feed the cycle. I to like that body with increase.

George
 
Bill...that's what they call salesmanship. Now you need to sell yours to someone that wants a regular sized body and feed the cycle. I to like that body with increase.

George

Unfortunately I'd not be comfortable selling the one I have for anywhere near what I have in it. I bought it based on a couple pics, and those pics did not show how badly cut up it is, That it isn't sized as advertised, and how poor the fiberglass work is. Plus I think my little V6 would look odd in front of a wide firewall/cowl. I think I'm pretty well stuck with making the best of it. If I were starting fresh now, I'd go for an old Packard 327 straight 8 and transmission that I know of, with one of Ron's 10" widened bodies, and a Ford E150 axle. I think the combo would make for an interesting bobtail machine.
 
Unfortunately I'd not be comfortable selling the one I have for anywhere near what I have in it. I bought it based on a couple pics, and those pics did not show how badly cut up it is, That it isn't sized as advertised, and how poor the fiberglass work is. Plus I think my little V6 would look odd in front of a wide firewall/cowl. I think I'm pretty well stuck with making the best of it. If I were starting fresh now, I'd go for an old Packard 327 straight 8 and transmission that I know of, with one of Ron's 10" widened bodies, and a Ford E150 axle. I think the combo would make for an interesting bobtail machine.
But if you aren't happy with what you have, it may be better to switch now before throwing good money after bad...It's easier to motivate yourself when you like the work...I understand not wanting to waste too. Build two!:)
 
But if you aren't happy with what you have, it may be better to switch now before throwing good money after bad...It's easier to motivate yourself when you like the work...I understand not wanting to waste too. Build two!:)

I wish I had the financial ability to do that. I'm doing this project with the financial crumbs left from a meager disability income. It's taken me over 2-1/2 years to get what I have. What I am planning on doing is putting off work on the body until I have a rolling chassis with drivetrain. That way if I do have the ability to get a different body, I'll not have wasted any more on this one.

So far there is no shortage of motivation. This project is pretty much what has kept me going the last few years.
 
I wish I had the financial ability to do that. I'm doing this project with the financial crumbs left from a meager disability income. It's taken me over 2-1/2 years to get what I have. What I am planning on doing is putting off work on the body until I have a rolling chassis with drivetrain. That way if I do have the ability to get a different body, I'll not have wasted any more on this one.

So far there is no shortage of motivation. This project is pretty much what has kept me going the last few years.
Good! I am glad you feel good about it. I don't know what your comfort level is with glass, but you can make it do just about anything you can build a form for, so you could modify yours if you really wanted to. I am going to make some revisions on the one I have. I didn't order one, just bought a car to play with. I thought about buying a different body, but there isn't anything wrong with the one I have and I hate to waste. If I don't like it when I get done, I will pass it on and build something else...This may become a new past time for a while, who knows?
 
Good! I am glad you feel good about it. I don't know what your comfort level is with glass, but you can make it do just about anything you can build a form for, so you could modify yours if you really wanted to. I am going to make some revisions on the one I have. I didn't order one, just bought a car to play with. I thought about buying a different body, but there isn't anything wrong with the one I have and I hate to waste. If I don't like it when I get done, I will pass it on and build something else...This may become a new past time for a while, who knows?

My comfort level with glass is pretty low. I played with it a bit patching up a couple of rusted out old beater cars 30+ years ago. I do plan on adding a few layers of cloth to the inside of this body after I've reinforced it...if I keep it.

If you can afford it, it is a great pass time. One of my big regrets in life is that I let my dad talk me out of "wasting time on cars" 30+ years ago. This bucket list project is my return to what I loved from the time I was old enough to know what a car is. I plan to continue as long as I'm able.
 
My comfort level with glass is pretty low. I played with it a bit patching up a couple of rusted out old beater cars 30+ years ago. I do plan on adding a few layers of cloth to the inside of this body after I've reinforced it...if I keep it.

If you can afford it, it is a great pass time. One of my big regrets in life is that I let my dad talk me out of "wasting time on cars" 30+ years ago. This bucket list project is my return to what I loved from the time I was old enough to know what a car is. I plan to continue as long as I'm able.
I would have to make it support itself by selling one and moving on or building one for someone here and there to justify the expense, but I am not interested in starting a new business venture, just support an enjoyable hobby. I used to run a body shop and garage among other things and own just about every tool I need and have a fair amount of experience with the work, however that was a while back and I am not as flexible, energetic, etc...I have seen some amazing things done with simple cardboard forms, cloth, and layered glass cloth. It is quite a bit different than patching metal or even other glass holes. My neighbor, who I didn't have much faith in due to his limited craftsmanship, built a very nice console with provisions for his stereo, gauges, shifter, etc...He just made a contoured box out of cardboard and some wire to stiffen it and started layering it. I was very skeptical at the inception, but it really turned out nice. I am going to put my hand to some custom additions for my project after I get the major mechanical redesigns implemented. At least that's my thoughts.
 
I would have to make it support itself by selling one and moving on or building one for someone here and there to justify the expense, but I am not interested in starting a new business venture, just support an enjoyable hobby. I used to run a body shop and garage among other things and own just about every tool I need and have a fair amount of experience with the work, however that was a while back and I am not as flexible, energetic, etc...I have seen some amazing things done with simple cardboard forms, cloth, and layered glass cloth. It is quite a bit different than patching metal or even other glass holes. My neighbor, who I didn't have much faith in due to his limited craftsmanship, built a very nice console with provisions for his stereo, gauges, shifter, etc...He just made a contoured box out of cardboard and some wire to stiffen it and started layering it. I was very skeptical at the inception, but it really turned out nice. I am going to put my hand to some custom additions for my project after I get the major mechanical redesigns implemented. At least that's my thoughts.

Back when I was restoring MGs and doing custom VWs, I'd have one main long term project for myself, then bought and sold side projects to supply parts and finance the the main project. If you enjoy it, it's what ever process works for you.

As far as the glass work goes, we'll see what skills I have and develop. At least it will be on a body that is less than I want to begin with, so it will be less of a loss if it does not turn out well.
 

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