Towing a trailer?
- Thread starter oino
- Start date
one finger john
Active Member
I would contact Spirit to see if they have any ideas on tow packages or trailer hitches. Also, another thought that was not addressed was if the collars on your coil overs could be adjusted for less preload, giving a softer ride.
John
John
ya, I'll try calling them tomorrow.
I might have to go back to Cali.. Would like to use the T. to get there. Take my time, 6 hours at a time.
Big changes at work. I might transfer back. I'll find out more on that tomorrow. But even if I don't have to go back right now. Was thinking a trailer for the T. would be nice to have incase.
I might have to go back to Cali.. Would like to use the T. to get there. Take my time, 6 hours at a time.
Big changes at work. I might transfer back. I'll find out more on that tomorrow. But even if I don't have to go back right now. Was thinking a trailer for the T. would be nice to have incase.
OINO, I use a 4x8 trailer to haul my Harley Sportster on with no problems. The total amount of weight is the one thing you have to worry about. My 't' weighs 2000# alone and the bike and trailer weighs 900# together. No problem stopping. You could add an electronic brake controller if the trailer has brakes and you exceed more than half the weight of the car. I made my hitch to bolt to the rear of frame under the bed using 4 grade 8 ,1/2 bolts. I think I saw the plans on the NTBA tech. pages. I did not use any brackets to keep the hitch from rotating forwards or backwards as this way I can take the hitch off and no evidence of it being there. There are two down tubes and a cross tube at the bottom with the reciever attached, all made from 2" square stainless steel. All this depends on the height of your "T" and the traier tounge. Hope this helps you and wish I could show you a diagram or picture.
San Diego T
Member
My trailer is 16 feet long from tonge to back of the open car trailer. The bed is 12 feet with a dove tail. Its 2 axle, electric brakes. My wheel base on the car is 98 inches. It tows like there is nothing there. E-mail me if you want a picture at dlmahar@pacbell.net. I havent learned how to post pics yet.
Flathead
Flathead
Thank you.
I'm thinking of ordering one of these.
http://www.harborfreight.com/950-lb...ailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42709.html
I'm thinking of ordering one of these.
http://www.harborfreight.com/950-lb...ailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42709.html
EX JUNK
Moderator
I bought one of those trailers back in the mid 90's and my son has it now. It made several trips from northeast Ohio to Orlando and it tows great. However, I did not tow it with a T.
Jim
EX JUNK
Moderator
I just checked back on my records and I bought it in 1993 for $250.93. So the price today has not gone up that much.
Jim
Ted Brown
Member
As long as you do not over load those SUPER- O 2 thin material frames, you should be OK... If you do buy one, check out all the mounting points, and re enforce all that could be pulled out of that thin material because of bad design and leverage to/on the brackets... You can not build that trailer for that money yourself, in this Country that is... hehe Remember this, the rule is to keep the top of the trailer ball at 16 inches high... Most all trailers are built with that as a correct height... 
rbsWELDER
Active Member
As long as you do not over load those SUPER- O 2 thin material frames, you should be OK... If you do buy one, check out all the mounting points, and re enforce all that could be pulled out of that thin material because of bad design and leverage to/on the brackets... You can not build that trailer for that money yourself, in this Country that is... hehe Remember this, the rule is to keep the top of the trailer ball at 16 inches high... Most all trailers are built with that as a correct height...
I might think about replacing all of the fasteners with quality fasteners.
Mark
Ted Brown
Member
During all the years of fixing those 0-2 thin material trailers, it has always been the brackets that have pulled/torn out of the frame and not any broken bolts, just plain 0-2 thin of material, and that means you need longer brackets at the frame end that now cover more material and require more welding, stagger welding also works good with this type of cheap material I find... At least with a T Bucket you are not hauling heavy loads with that trailer, I hope, not that the T will not handle the load, but the trailer won't... Like I said before, once I moved my whole shop using a 16 ft. flat bed trailer hauling all my equipment, just get the tongue weight correct and don't try and stop too fast... unless you have great trailer brakes...
My opinion is those harbor fright trailers might be suitable for hauling home a few 2 x 4's from Home Depot. Personally, I would not tow one loaded up on the highway. Be sure you have more than enough liability insurance should one of these break up and cause an accident.
Differen T
Member
One facet of small trailers that needs to be addressed is rim diameter. In addition to a reduced load capacity, a smaller diameter wheel and tire combination generates much more heat on the tires and wheel bearings. This can result in tire and or bearing failures, especially at higher speeds on long trips in hot weather . Another is the use of trailer tires requires higher tire pressure due to their design which can cause trailer bounce on rough road surfaces especially with small diameter tires and light loads.
Al
Rainmaker
New Member
.I found a trailer on Ebay that has an aluminum frame with a poly cover on it . It was only $695.00 It pulls like a dream. And I have 150 springs on the back with no problems.
Dennis Bynum
New Member
I love my harbor frt trailer. It has been all over the country behind my bucket.( I have to pull a trailer to pack all the tools it takes to fix my t when I travel.)
blownt
Member
what are you going to haul on a trailer behind a T bucket anyway? I doubt very seriously you will haul more than an ice chest, folding chairs, EZ-UP, small grill, etc.... That stuff doesn't weigh more than 200-300lbs which a Northern or Harbor Freight trailer will easily handle.
I bought my Northern trailer previously owned for $75. Took it home and added 2x6 stake sides. Bought stub axles and hubs and 2" square tubing and added 15" tires and wheelz. Added a longer tongue and put the ice chest out front of the bed.
When I built a frame on the bucket I knew I would be towing a small trailer so I added some 3"x2"x3/8" plates on the rear of the frame for a homemade HD trailer hitch. Don't have any O 2 thin brackets or tubing anywhere on my bucket, trailer, etc.... One of these days I wanna tow my blown jetboat behind my blown T bucket to a local car show and see what kinda looks I get.
Here is a link to my trailer hitch setup.
http://www.nationalt...hitch/hitch.asp
I bought my Northern trailer previously owned for $75. Took it home and added 2x6 stake sides. Bought stub axles and hubs and 2" square tubing and added 15" tires and wheelz. Added a longer tongue and put the ice chest out front of the bed.
When I built a frame on the bucket I knew I would be towing a small trailer so I added some 3"x2"x3/8" plates on the rear of the frame for a homemade HD trailer hitch. Don't have any O 2 thin brackets or tubing anywhere on my bucket, trailer, etc.... One of these days I wanna tow my blown jetboat behind my blown T bucket to a local car show and see what kinda looks I get.
Here is a link to my trailer hitch setup.
http://www.nationalt...hitch/hitch.asp
something like this might work. http://www.etrailer....Curt/E-100.html
Its 8" long. Might hang down below the lic. plate. But the opening is 4"
Maybe have a steel shop make me one that fits my frame. hmmm.
Its 8" long. Might hang down below the lic. plate. But the opening is 4"
Maybe have a steel shop make me one that fits my frame. hmmm.
OK just found that Curt also makes one of those with a 2" opening. Found it for $53 so far.
I could just get one of them and bolt it to the frame. I'm thinking if its not lower then the lic. plate. Then the plate could hide it. Just put one of these in
when I need to tow.
I could just get one of them and bolt it to the frame. I'm thinking if its not lower then the lic. plate. Then the plate could hide it. Just put one of these in
when I need to tow.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
The idea here is to go with the smallest trailer possible for what you want. Just gotta be sure of your tongue weight!
If I were you, I'd load the trailer, have the bucket backed up by it, have a bathroom scale below the trailer tongue, with a cinder block so you won't have to pick her up off the ground, load her up, but not exceed about 200 to 250 lbs. on tongue weight.
Wire up your taillights and your good to go.
I wouldn't try to haul anything over 1/3rd the total weight of your T, even though your suspension can carry it, and your brakes can stop it....you won't have the mass to shut it all down quickly, if someone should slam on their brakes in front of you....
Just be safe....
If I were you, I'd load the trailer, have the bucket backed up by it, have a bathroom scale below the trailer tongue, with a cinder block so you won't have to pick her up off the ground, load her up, but not exceed about 200 to 250 lbs. on tongue weight.
Wire up your taillights and your good to go.
I wouldn't try to haul anything over 1/3rd the total weight of your T, even though your suspension can carry it, and your brakes can stop it....you won't have the mass to shut it all down quickly, if someone should slam on their brakes in front of you....
Just be safe....
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