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Trailer Hitch

B

Baby Huey

New Member
I thought I would post pictures of the trailer hitch I made. If your serious about taking long rides in the T, especially with a signifacant other, you will need a change of undies and a tooth brush...maybe a few tools and a couple gas cans ! So here's a few pics.....
The reciever I used was a off the shelf Valley Hitch Pick Up Step Bumber Reciever ($30.00)....."BH"

Rear-1.jpg

Rearangle.jpg

Top.jpg

Top2.jpg

IMG_0394.jpg

IMG_0395.jpg
 
Thanks BH, I'm going to put a hitch on mine at some point. :rofl:
 
Hey BH, I really like that set-up. I've been looking for ideas on how to do a hitch for my T. I have the basic parts (custom frame and torsion axle) for a teardrop luggage trailer that have been sitting in the garage for two years now! I really need to get to work on it. Here's a rendering T-odd did for me, or was it Humidi-T? Dang CRS!!
 
Nice job.
I want to put one on mine but I got a jag rear and the frame terminates at the rear axle. Anyone on here that has a Jag rear with a hitch?

I need ideas.​
 
I have a Jag, but my diff mounting plate is ahead of my rear crossmember, so I think I can do something like BH's. Maybe not.

Here's how AussieT did his...
 
I figgered it's a lot easyer to build the hitch into the frame before all the sand blasting and powder coating goes on, no since doin it over.
As you can see it's just tacked on now, hopefully I can get in the shop in the near future and work on it again.
My rear CCR "Sport Deck" has about a 12" overhang out beyond the rear cross member. So the stinger will be kinda long, no big deal, not much tounge weight in a small trailer.
I put a 4ft piece of 2X2 X1/4" wall tube in the reciever, and jumped up and dowm on the end, it just squished the springs...I weigh 300+ pounds add that to a 4 foot lever...I think it's plenty strong.
The reqtangle piece of tube started out as 3x5x1/4, I had to section it in the middle to fit it between the bolt holes...Bottom plate is 1/4", bolts are 1/2-13Xgrd 8..
I'll smooth it up and round the square edges before I'm done.
One thing I did forget....I didn't add the frame rake to the cut on the req. tube where it attaches to the rear cross member. So the stinger will come out at an up angle...Poor engineering, would be nice if it was level with the ground... "BH"
 
I dunno......looks kinda "flimsy" to me:eek:

bet it'll only hold 50-60,000 lbs:surprised::lol::lol:

seriously, that looks like it should do the job.


Vance
 
Lee_in_KC said:
Hey BH, I really like that set-up. I've been looking for ideas on how to do a hitch for my T. I have the basic parts (custom frame and torsion axle) for a teardrop luggage trailer that have been sitting in the garage for two years now! I really need to get to work on it. Here's a rendering T-odd did for me, or was it Humidi-T? Dang CRS!!
Click to expand...

Lee, you can get the reciever tubing at most steel supplies. A couple brackets and a tube, done deal.
"Tbucit" has a pretty simple design too....
Now I gotta bend up some Nerf Bars. I have the holes in the frame drilled and tapped with back up plates to mount the bars. I bought a Chi-Com pipe bender so I'm thinkin bout bending up some wrap around bars to protect the rear deck.. "BH"
 
Never say never, Lee. You could always go verticle with the tube, like the hitch on my motorcycle. You've got enough room between the tank and the bed for a tube. If your trailer is going to be small, like what's behind my bike, you only need like an 1 1/2 tube. edit: I think my bike's hitch uses 1" tube. You wouldn't notice that size of a hole in the bottom roll of your bed, and if you did, you could always fashion a plug that fills it when the trailer isn't in use. Since you'd be making most of the trailer anyway, then you could fashion a tongue that would match up perfectly, like z-ing a frame. Something to talk about on the way to Springfield, eh?
 
Off topic...BH, tell me about that chassis caddy. that would be sooooo handy.

Ron
 
Youngster said:
Off topic...BH, tell me about that chassis caddy. that would be sooooo handy.

Ron
Click to expand...

It's a BACK saver Ron ! I got tired of kickin rear ends accross the shop floor and killin myself lifting them onto my floor jack ! So I had to do somethin....I'll get some pics and start a new thread...."BH"
 
Well, here is the other end of the spectrum on hitches as far a towing capacity goes. This one is for the little trailers where they use a car top carrier on a lite frame with the boat trailer wheel and tire combos. The main tube was fastened to the transmission crossmember with a pin. The two mounts at the rear crossmember were tube sleeves that slipped over the bungs that were attached to the front side of the crossmember. Pull one pin and slip it back and off and leave it in your motel room. In case you can't tell, I'm not a big fan of how trailer hitches look on street rods... no matter how neat the fabrication work is. :D But that is just me.

scan0002-1.jpg


BH - Is that an Econo-Twin lurking in the background in the second photo in this post? I wore out 3 lead screws on one of them over a lot of years of use. I thought that Miller should have pushed those more on the hobbyist market. Great little machine with enough capacity for most things a guy in his garage would run into. Sorry for getting off topic. :eek:
 
Econo-Twin.....

Yes it iz George.....But sadly it's not mine, belongs to a good friend who doesn't have a garage to store it. It's well over 20 years old, we've built a couple cars and a trailer or two with it.
It has a "poor man's Tig Unit" on it, a "Monkey Wards" Arc Stabilizer. Comes in handy but not enough Frequency to really weld Aluminum, and NO FOOT PEDAL !! (I hate that, spoiled I guess...) I had to buy a Auto Darkening hood to save me from all the arc flashes ! LOL.....
All I have is a 1957 model Monkey Wards (Lincoln) 225 Amp. AC welder. It works like top and I welded my T-Frame together with it..Works great for thawing out the water pipes too.... "BH"
 
BH,

I'd forgotten about some of them not having hi-freq. And the lack of a treadle control was a major pain. That is how I wore out the lead screws, changing the amperage settings. The new ones have all of this stuff. :cry:
 
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