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Triangulated 4-bar rear suspension

der Spieler

Has anyone ever tried or seen this on a T-bucket. I would like to do it on my next car if it will work. I studied the idea after I built my last one but didn't think I could get it to fit to my (Speedway) frame. I would like to eliminate the panhard bar. Thanx.......Steve
I swear I thought I saw some pictures of a triangulated 4 link setup, but I can't remember where! (Like I should be shocked...) :eek:

TRoadster did post these pictures of this 3 bar setup that I thought was very nice...


I suppose a triangulated 4-bar would simply be a modified version of this as well...
with the way the frame is designed on most T's there should be plenty of room...

looking at most pictures i've seen, i would run the lower bars of the 4-link on the outside of the framerails, possibly even make the lower mounts and weld them on the underside of the rail, just like a hairpin mount, would depend on where the rearend falls for your set up..

i always want my lower bars as level as i can get them without going negative angle, just looks better in my opinion.. the lower bars would be easy anyways, the uppers probably not to bad either.. with the way the kickups are on these frames the underside of the kickup would be ideal probably, plus it wouldnt stick out like a sore thumb...
I didn't discover this type of suspension until after my car was finished. I looked under the car to see if I could convert it but there were so many things, brake and fuel lines, fuel pump, etc. in the way that I didn't want to go to the hassle of almost starting over and having to reroute and repaint everything so I let it go. I would have had to attach the top bars to the kickup and I wasn't sure how it would work because the axle housing was so close as in the pics posted by LumenAl. I would think that a 45 degree angle would be optimum and the angle I would have had to work with would have been less that 30 degrees. Would that small of an angle create a bind in the suspension travel? I don't know about these things. That's why I'm consulting the experts here. Anyway I've kept the idea in the back of my mind for if I ever wanted to build another one and I leaning toward getting started on one soon. Thanx........Steve
I'll add to my previous post.. is only reason you want a triangulated setup is to get rid of the panhard bar?

a parallel set up will ride better than a triangulated setup... if i were to build a new complete chassis , i would opt for a parallel 4-link with a wishbone...

most 4links you see in like jegs or summit are setups for drag-racing. the total length of the assembled bars, thats the bars plus the hiem-ends are 17 1/4 thats because the 17 1/4 is for optimum tracion, not ride comfort.

there is no rule that says your bars have to be that long, or that short... the longer you make the lower bar the better off your going to be anyways, especially in these light T's..

the lower bar i would make it the same length as your front hairpin or radius rod,just for looks as it wouldnt look right with a 32 or 36 inch radius rod on the front and a 17 inch bar in the back....

i would put the upper mount on the inside of the frame rail, it depends where you put the rearend as to where the mount will go.. but the upper bar can have as much as 15degrees of angle to it.. same goes for the lower bar..

a good triangulated 4 link set-up to look at would be in a 87-to current mustang, the upper bars on those cars are right around 9 inches long..
yep, pretty much exactly what i would do. i would just move the lower bar to the outside of the framerail and make it a tad longer to somewhat even out the look of the rearend compared to the frontend..

I bet it rides good for a T also..
The more I look at the picture Lee posted of the four link with wishbone the more I like it. But does having just one connecting point at the crossmember control lateral movement of the rear end? It's like the three link a few posts above. I can see that it would prevent axle rap under load but what about lateral movement?.
der Spieler said:
Has anyone ever tried or seen this on a T-bucket. I would like to do it on my next car if it will work. I studied the idea after I built my last one but didn't think I could get it to fit to my (Speedway) frame. I would like to eliminate the panhard bar. Thanx.......Steve

It is hard to get a proper triangulated four link under a T bucket. The frames are to narrow to get a decent angle on the upper bars, without running real short bars. When I do them, I angle the lower bars. And run the tops straight. Look in my gallery, the car in there has the rear suspension done that way. I've done a few this way, and they ride and handle great.
the wishbone locator you see in the pics (the Y shaped piece) ,its the best way to locate a rearend..
^ I think a standard wishbone link would be better than one with a slip joint though, for the simple fact that it won't wear over time. But a 3-link is really a sure fire way to eliminate any side to side movement.

Someone also mentioned triangulated lower bars, which is a setup I am fond of.
It creates a low roll center, which will better match the roll center of a straight axle front end, and feel more even front to back. Heres one I did with triangulated lowers.

You can run bars that are plenty long, and the frame width doesn't really limit the amount of triangulation you are allowed, because there is no interference. I also like to run the bushings parallel to the axle tubes, because it is possible to work in more triangulation, less wear on the bushings, and I really like the look.
You guy wantna watch this guy. I've seen some of his other projects, they were awesome. I'm really looking forward to this build unfolding.

Twisted, Could you post something on your tube bender?

Youngster said:
Twisted, Could you post something on your tube bender?


Yeah, is there a How To section? Or just a tool section? I'll post something when I get back from breakfast.
Ain't nothing wrong with that set up.Like the old saying goes"RUN WHAT YA BRUNG"As in use what ya got.
Thats a nice bender. I really like that style. Used to have one at work. Only thing I didn't like was being large thick wall tube. Took a big extension.But maybe I was just being a wuss.

Anyways, I just posted my article on building a bender for around $350 with a die. It just needs approval.
i have a 14ton air-over hydraulic ram to put on it, i either need to make the mount or buy it.. usually i use a piece of 3 1/2 foot long 1x2 tubing.. bends 1 3/4 1/8wall dom pretty easy..

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