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Tube chassis - pros and cons?

herrakani

herrakani

New Member
Hey.
I started stitching up a tube chassis for bucket.
Pretty standard setup otherwise, 37-48 axle, Malibu front brakes, sbc, TH2004r, 10-bolt /w coilovers, NOS etc.
So, got any opinions on tube chassis?
I'm doing a 2-tube setup, kinda like the old dragsters with supports in between and rear end between the tubes. Seamless 1 5/8" tubing, 110" wb.
 
A little more difficult to design and built but it would be to my way of thinking. I know some will try and steer you toward conventional thinking but if you can do it then go for it. I'm building road racing cars with smaller tube then that.

George
 
In the mid to late 60's chassis eng. & P.S.I. both marketed "digger" style tube chassis for T's . If I look around I may still have catalogs from then .
dave
 
I've seen some with frame kickups but I'm doing dragster style, rear end inside the frame. IDK why. :)
Just seemed to be the way to go.
I'll shoot some pics tomorrow maybe.
 
Found it finally............ http://www.magnumforceracing.com/cars/tbucket/tbucket.htm

tbucke4.jpg
tbucke7.jpg
tbucke6.jpg
 
My trusty angle grinder died on me and it's sunday so there is not much to do but mock up things.
I am going to clean up my garage and nail the wooden fixture to the floor and line everything up to a datum line before I start welding and tacking pipes to places. I'll place the engine at 25" mark. The rear tubes will be bent up after the rear end and the rear end clearance will be 5" top and bottom, the top tube being 4" apart at the front. Firewall will be around 34" or so. I am 6'2" so I need a bit more legroom too.

I am not able to post pictures yet, sry bout that.
 
1395314_10151948252333395_122756229_n.jpg


Does this show? Just a mockup for the lower tubes though. I'll weld X-brace under the engine and another for transmission and the upper tubes will be slanted as I said on the previous post. Then I am debating on whether to do a roll bar or not. I am currently arranging stuff so I can move this to my garage, it's built for a motorcycle by the previous owner so I'm not sure if everything fits.
 
Are you going to use just one tube? What is the wall thickness and diameter of the tube? The frame on my avitar was 2 1/2" 4130 and it had a lot of flex but it had 144" of wheelbase.
 
I'd say if thats what you like, Go For It! I like marching to the beat of a diff. drum!
 
I know you've seen the thread on my roadster (Tube Frame Track T), but did you look at it from the beginning? My frame may be similar to what you are wanting to build. On the first page the first pic shows the frame upside down on my garage floor - the different size tubing is obvious in that pic. I used 1 5/8 inch tubing for the top rails, 1 inch for the bottom, and 3/4 inch for the diagonal bracing. About half way down on that page is a picture of the finished frame after painting.:cool: Again, the different size tubing is visible and, in my opinion, looks good. I got the inspiration from the old AMT "Double Dragster" model kit from the early '60s. If you want a really detailed record of the build, take a look here: http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-talk/30400-another-build-thread-yep-my-track-style-t.html
When I started my roadster I had already built about 20 frames for different cars and all of them were made from 1 1/2 x 3, 2 x 3, or 2 x 4 rectangular tubing. I wanted to do something different, so went with round tubing. It was a little more labor intensive at first, but well worth the effort to me. It is very rigid and I get a lot of compliments on it, too.:thumbsup:
 
Yes I did. It is almost the same style I am going for. I have thick wall 1 5/8 tubing for both tubes and I'll do diagonals from smaller tube.
Thanks everyone for support!

I have little hickups for now, the welder doesn't feed the wire constantly, I mail ordered wrong bearings for the rear end, the guy that sold me the front axle stopped replying me and such but nothing I cannot overcome in time.
 
On the welder, check the feed roller for dirt in the roller and see if you can add a little pressure to the pinch roller. John
 
If using seamed tubing, place the seams of the long tubes directly towards each other, that way the connectors between the 2 will be tie-ing the seams together. Always pay attention to where those seams are in the welding or forming exercises. DOM is expensive but worth it. Chrome Moly is really high right now....
If using thick wall tubing chamfer all your fitment surfaces so you can sink those welding in there. On your MIG wire, run the wipers between your spool and the drive. They just clip onto the wire and they clean and lube the wire....
 
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Today I welded the rear end mounts and flange since I finally got the right spool bearings. The welder is still acting up a bit but I'll manage with it I think.
 
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