Tube chassis - pros and cons?
- Thread starter herrakani
- Start date
meangreen
Active Member
Yep, looks like a Modet-T axle to me, too. They had no front brakes. The steering arms have been bent around and attached to the axle beam to lock them in place, probably for use as a trailer axle. The discs on the left in the picture are the remains of the hub from an original wood-spoke wheel.
Some restorer might be able to salvage it and use it or it might be an interesting piece of "wall art", but as a hotrod part it's useless.
Some restorer might be able to salvage it and use it or it might be an interesting piece of "wall art", but as a hotrod part it's useless.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
You need to get that welder fixed, before you get into the frame building....That or weld with stick. The MIG is plenty good enough with things set correctly. What welder are you using?
Looking at the weld around your axle tubes there, I'd get a 1/8th 6010 5P+ and burn it in, because some of the weld doesn't have any or very little penetration in spots. You want to get this fixed before the frame welding....that skin growing back gets really painful, should a frame decide to part company at the seams.
If your using something like a Lincoln SP-175 Pro, the rollers aren't that much. The larger machines, which have continous voltage, instead of voltage taps, are alot easier to set. Keep your liner from making any sharp curves or bends, have you heat turned up, with fast wire speed, and haul Butt. Set your machine on some scrap, adjusting as needed. Run .030 with 75/25 argon CO2 blend. If your rollers are worn, tighten down on your roller pressure. Put on a new tip, and use some tip dip to keep the drag down and spatter at bay.
Looking at the weld around your axle tubes there, I'd get a 1/8th 6010 5P+ and burn it in, because some of the weld doesn't have any or very little penetration in spots. You want to get this fixed before the frame welding....that skin growing back gets really painful, should a frame decide to part company at the seams.
If your using something like a Lincoln SP-175 Pro, the rollers aren't that much. The larger machines, which have continous voltage, instead of voltage taps, are alot easier to set. Keep your liner from making any sharp curves or bends, have you heat turned up, with fast wire speed, and haul Butt. Set your machine on some scrap, adjusting as needed. Run .030 with 75/25 argon CO2 blend. If your rollers are worn, tighten down on your roller pressure. Put on a new tip, and use some tip dip to keep the drag down and spatter at bay.
Last edited:
herrakani
New Member
Yea I know, the welds are not good, I'll redo the axle housing too. I am debating on a new mig or a tig machine. I'll just tack stuff up before I get a new machine.
I have old Telwin machine which I have used previously on bodywork only. My garage had a good Kemppi machine for thicker stuff and I had that one at home.
I have old Telwin machine which I have used previously on bodywork only. My garage had a good Kemppi machine for thicker stuff and I had that one at home.
herrakani
New Member
Ok, front axle tube is attached, and then the plans. I am going to bend the tubes so it will be something like this.
Measurements in centimeters, 4" at the front, 5" at the first bend, 14" at the rear.
24" to the engine mount, 42,5" to the trans x-over, 15" to the rear kickup.
TriodeLuvr
Member
What kinds of paint are people using on transmissions? Is there something special available for this? I've used a two-step process on smaller pieces of aluminum; an etching primer followed by a top coat. Just wondering if there's something on the market that's easier to use.
Jack
Jack
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