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Useable power in a T-Bucket...

R

Ryan

New Member
Hello everyone. I am a new member on this site. I really enjoy reading all this knowledge/experience as I've just begun a T project myself.

One thing I have not found on any site is how a T-bucket handles small block power. Do these things hook up with 400+ HP? It seems with a less than 200o pound car it would just slide and hop all over the place. As I mentioned, I am new to these cars and only have experience with Firebirds/Camaros etc. A 400 horse motor in a 2700 pound car was way plenty. At what point is it just overkill on power? Dont get me wrong, I'm all about the big numbers, I just wonder at what point it is just wasted motor.
 
I guess ya can't really waste a motor. Ya only get 400 HP at some high RPM. Be gentle on the pedal and HP won't make a difference. My 302 is only good for about 300 HP [or less] and it scoots real good. The really important thing is having the right torque converter so it doesn't pull too hard at idle. Some of these guys here have huge engines and do all right. Sure they will chime in soon.
 
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Yea Roger that. I'm just curious how much of it you can put to the ground. 300 sounds like it would move it just fine. I had a 95 Trans Am with a meager 275HP, + the car weighed 3700 pounds and it was still greasy.
 
having power on tap is a good thing , being able to control it or learning to control it is anothe matter...... "rolling" power in is an aquired skill.... it really doesn't matter how much you have available , it's whether or not you can control it , I put that more on the driver than the equipment.
dave
 
It boils down to good rear suspension design, adjustable shocks, and decent tires like a proper drag radial or sticky Mickey T to make it hook. and yes, 400 HP in a Bucket = plenty of fun on the street.
 
Mine is a hybrid vehicle, burns gas and rubber. That is what it is for burning rubber, making noise and doing donuts.
 
Thank you. Yes I'll throw some pictures on once I get a bit further in the process. As of now I've only got the frame steel cut, beveled and ready to weld this weekend. Also have some bracket blanks cut, and a 9" ready to be cleaned up/old brackets cut off.

It's hard not to get excited about the project, 'specially after reading this plethora of insightful information. I really enjoy learning from other peoples past experiences. This site seems like it could save me alot of time and grief during the build.

Thanks again for having me.
 
bigblk1177 said:
Too much power is like too much money, no such thing!! Enjoy the ride
Click to expand...

Amen Both Brothers !!!

Disregard all answers above, it's what you want!!! Tomorrow you might change your mind like a women, when you get a taste of real HP.....hehehehe
 
Tire size has everything to do with controlling the power. Mine has a stock Goodwrench 350 with 260hp. In a heavy behemoth that's nothing. But in a 1800lb lightweight with narrow tread it's a tire roastin' good time! :D And when it does hook up, hang on! :geek:
 
Remember it's torque that spins the tires. HP = torque x rpm / 5252. 200 ft-lbs of torque at 5252 RPM = 200 HP. 200 ft-lbs at 10,504 rpm = 400 HP. The camshaft determines at what rpm the engine develops maximum torque and HP. Some cams will max at a low RPM...good for trucks, RVs and work vehicles. Race cams max out at much higher RPM; hence, higher HP. With these light weight cars just about anything over 250 ft-lbs can unhook the tires. More HP just makes it possible to go faster. Torque = acceleration, HP = speed. I've had mine to 85 mph and I'll probably never go that fast again.
 
The engine is my car is similar to a Ram Jet 350 (same cam, better heads, same CR and similar intake flow) so it should be making close to the 350 HP at the crank GM claims for that engine. My car weighs a little over 1900 lbs with me in it and has 255x70 tires, 3.42 Auburn limited slip rear and a 700R4 trans. It also carries 60% of it's weight on the rear tires.

The car hooks far better than I expected even with the fairly narrow tires. It will spin both tires just fine and lay down nice twin marks, but the whole time it's also digging in and accelerating very fast. You need to make sure you have plenty of room in front of you and that you have it lined up well. It's going to get where ever you're pointed VERY quick and if it's not straight, it will try to "come around" on you. Forget doing anything crazy if the tires are wet!

It could probably handle more power, but I'm happy with it as it is now. I will say that it has ruined me as far as other high performance cars are concerned. Very few cars outside of the "super car" ranks will compare with a good T when it comes to acceleration. No other car I've ever driven comes close. Only motorcycles give me anywhere near the same feeling.

Mike
 
If you build your engine for the street, you should not have a problem. Mild cam, dual-plane manifold, vacuum-secondary carb, and slightly loose near-stock converter should get you where you want to be. My car with a little over 300hp will easily light up 275/60s and chirp 2nd gear with no fuss at all. An open rear end (9 inch Ford in my case) will hook up very well and lay twin stripes without limited-slip gears. This car has NEVER fishtailed on me, it just burns rubber and goes straight ahead!
 
From what I read these cars seem like alot of fun; open wheel, exposed motor, primitive suspension, etc. I have never even ridden in one but I've wanted one since I was a teenager.

My (tentative) plan is a overcammed small block, with matching components that start making power from 2500 through 6500. I've even considered running a tunnel ram/dual 500's progressive link for the cool factor, as it seems the motor could fall flat on its face at 2500 but with such a light car it would still launch. I understand "Streetability" and all that, but it sound like you can get away with alot more with a T. Maybe it would even be a benefit that it wouldnt hit so hard off the line, making controlled launches easier. I would also go with a quality 2800-3200 stall as I've ran them before on my previous street cars and they dont bother me a bit. I've yet to figure what gears to slam in the 9", I'll wait to see exactly what engine components I settle on as well as rear tire size.

ellis8500 said:
I've had mine to 85 mph and I'll probably never go that fast again.
Click to expand...

Thats awesome! I'm sure you can feel every bit of it too. I imagine it's like riding a Harley at high speed, seems/sounds like you're really moving.
 
3.00. Powerband of cam and manifold is 800-4800 rpm, so it pulls immediately off idle and shifts in the sweet spot between 2000-3000 rpm. At cruising rpm of 2200, the converter will flash a little, but still bite quickly with a satisfying rush forward. If you build a low-revving motor with good vacuum, you will also get a very smart downshift.
 
Lets ask Andy Fadster about useable HP. He is a member on here, all though I have not seen him for quite awhile. I do see him on Facebook. He is still racing this street driven T Bucket. No such think as too much HP.
andy_zps05280c85.jpg

andy1_zpsead43b2b.jpg
 
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