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value of used big block t

#131162232027 ebay is still at$9800 if i win i now need info i installing a pass door and were to buy a good one thank you
 
Well, welcome to our little corner of Horsepower Heaven....its great to get new members.
Hey, this is gonna be your car, do what makes you happy. Wanna put a Peterbuilt hood ornament on it, I say go for it!
I love Big Blocks, you have all that torque and horsepressure just by mashing on the accelerator a little. A smallblock you have to wind it a little to get the same pull.
BUT, you sit behind a properly build big block, nothing else quite measures up. Its like that blown motor, everything else is a disappointment....
Small blocks have they're advantages, so do Big Blocks! The 396 is one of the best motors Chevy made, but has a weakness in the lowerend oiling system. Thats why that motor has had problems with the rods. A good set of bearings and a good oilpump overcome that.
You can buy what you want as a turnkey car, and just drive it upon delivery. OR you can buy one that runs for about $3000-$5000. Then you can customize it and make it your own!
Do it however you want it, its your car!. Hell, I just got thru putting a Chevy 6.2 V8 diesel in one....thats what the guy wanted. Flipped the exhaust manifolds, mounted a small turbo on each manifold, made a alum. intake tube going from each turbo, then dropping to the intake manifold. Looks cool as hell all that stuff out there by the valvecovers, 2 big tapered filters pointed forwards. Runs pretty damn good to.
Build or buy what you want, make your dream come alive! Its just fun to build one!

As far as doors are concerned, Ron turned me onto building a frame and mounting it, theres alot of folks here that can talk you thru it. We have A great many folks here are are really knowledgeable in different areas....
 
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i would asume you think it a buy at 10k?

Well, I think at $10K it has to be in relatively poor condition NOT to be an OK buy. At that price, the big questions to me would be quality of the build - such as the frame, mounts, suspension and other structural design - and whether a lot of chrome/paint/interior needs to be redone right away. Much of the rest, including the drivetrain, can usually be handled at a reasonable cost if you're not in a hurry. There's always more risk with assembled cars, and I'm not sure I would ever buy one in the typical eBay format (win the auction, give the owner $500 non-refundable, then fly out and inspect). I just don't see why the buyer should assume all the risk plus a deposit given the possibility that the owner might not know or disclose the true condition of the vehicle. Even real estate contracts don't favor the seller to such an extent, and most of those are pretty bad. I suggest, at the very least, that you write the owner before the auction closes. Ask whether he's agreeable to waive the deposit in consideration of the time and expense you'll incur to travel out there if you win.

Jack
 
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IF, time is not a object, I'd say take your time and look around. This is a buyers market now. Theres alot of folks that have lost their jobs, are retraining to keep their jobs, alot of folks selling their houses and extra cars. This is where folks are selling to recoup some of their money. Usually, its best to buy in the winter, because when these cars are in season, they usually bring more because of the higher demand.

Whatever you do, make sure you contract thru a good, dependable co. Anyplace that has professional people selling these cars, you have to watch your back. Especially in Floroda....theres alot of folks that want to seperate you from your money with shoddy merchandise or no merchandise. Case in point, theres alot of very shady car and bike dealers there.
Its best to go there, kick the tires, look it over carefully, drive it, and if your buying it thru a auction house, be sure they are legit and liscensed. A friend of mine once bought a custom bike from down around Miami, and about 2 weeks later, the bike was pratically falling apart. The place had closed up, moved, no-body knew anything , other than they were a bunch of illegals.

Be sure the papers are in order, THAT IT IS TITLED OR HAS BEEN TITLED! If not, let the buyer beware! There are alot of good cars out there that can be had for less if you shop around, IF THATS WHAT YOU WANT! AS 409 said....is it worth you buying a turnkey car? If YES, take your time and shop around. Look at a bunch of diff. ones....don't buy that first one that pops up!
If it hasn't ever been titled before, they best be will to give you a discount, because that paperwork can be a extreme hassle, these days.
 
were you able to see car on ebay#131162232027?

Yes, it's in my "Watch" list. Incidentally, there's one more issue about buying one of these sight unseen. They are all made differently, and some are extremely cramped. The first one I looked at last year was a commercial build by Total. Build quality, structural design and the fit and finish were excellent, and I really liked the look and stance of the car. However, it was almost impossible to drive it. The problem was that the steering column was located too far to the left. There wasn't enough room to get my left foot through between the column and body. That pushed my left leg way back, so my knee was a half-foot or so above the side of the bucket. Very awkward and very uncomfortable. The car I have now is much better in that regard, but has its own share of ergonomic issues. The angle of the back of the bucket is such that only my upper back touches the bucket. My butt and lower back don't contact the seat back at all, so there's absolutely no support. I can drive it for the half-hour or so going to work each way, but after an hour in this car, I get out looking like an invalid. Just something to think about...

Jack

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EDIT: FWIW, this was also an eBay car. I had talked to the owner, and he did not require a deposit. He also understood that the car would have to drive well and and fit me OK, and that I was risking about $1K to make the trip. He was very nice about everything, and I ended up buying a different T from him.
 
I would NOT buy a bucket unless I have seen it, touched it and driven it first.

They just vary so much in usable space. And will you fit in it comfortably, can you drive it 10 miles without your right leg going to sleep? Dont mock, I altered the seating in oe of my buckets to a scooped out design so I sat lower in it, and after 10 miles my leg felt numb. I know buckets never claim to be Cadillacs, but if you want to cruise 100 miles to an event with your mates, you dont want to holdup the crowd with three extra stops.

Then theres the size issue - and size does matter. Theres long buckets and short ones and theres some that are "way cool" low where the trans hump is so big, you cant get your s12 feet in there for the accelerator.

But dont be afraid of a big block engine. they are still an "air and fuel" pump and 396 isnt that much more than 350 in any case. Just check theres room for a 3 inch gilmer belt incase you wake up one day and see an awesome deal on a 671 supercharger kit..... ;-)
 
Last year at a car show , a guy wanted to trade his 454 for my 305 [ both G.M.] He wanted to trade me for even money [ no $ exchange] I told him no , I like my warmed over 305........
 
I think i am going to wait till i can sit in one i am watching one that has tilt wheel looks like more room? but some seem like they have more room than others?
 
Not sure where you are located but you may ought to consider going to the NTBA show in Ocala this weekend that RPM has posted about. I'm sure there will be lots of T's of all different sorts, and just like most shows I'm sure there will be a few for sale. If nothing else most of the car guys are happy to have you climb in and see how the cars feel to you. At the end of the day I'm betting you could even take a ride with someone. It will give you a much much better idea of what you really want, and what is comfortable to you.
 

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