Water Crossover?

[HAceT]

I have an Airgap intake that has 4 water ports in the intake. 2 in the rear and 2 in the front. How do I go about hooking these up or do I just need to plug them. It is going on the 406 which as I was told the 400's like to run warm. Do I run the rears into each other and just plug the front or do I run right rear to right front and visversa on the left. Here is the intake....note the water ports on all 4 corners. I drew a diagram... which one the red or the green or just plug it.

 

[RPM]

My blower intake is set up the same way. I just plugged them.

 

[bigfrank330]

Those holes are used to do a number of things
1 -You need one of those for your temp gauge
2 - If you are using a heater core you will need one for that
3 - If you are using any temperature controlled switches you will need to use for those

In most cases you need the front left or right for your TEMP GAUGE and the rest are BLOCKED off
My 2 cents
Frank

 

[Mike]

You can run a line from front to rear if you like, it will help move the water a bit more. We would drill and tap the pump to run a #6 line, pushing water to the center of the cylinder head, near the deck. And then run lines from front to rear on the intake.

I really like reading water temperature at the cylinder head, as opposed to the intake.

 

[blownt]

The green is what I did. Front has crossover under the themostat housing. You can fabricate a rear crossover with SS braided hose and fittings that will loop around behind the distributor. I had one on my old blower intake. Just had the flat bosses. I drilled and tapped them for 1/2" pipe threads and bought the fittings and hose from Summit.

Older stock cast iron intakes used to have rear crossovers. Not many aluminum intakes have them or have the rear bosses either. You will have dead areas in the rear water passages without a rear crossover.


http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/intake3.jpg

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/intake4.jpg

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/intake5.jpg

 

[Wild Mango]

The green is what I did. Front has crossover under the themostat housing. You can fabricate a rear crossover with SS braided hose and fittings that will loop around behind the distributor. I had one on my old blower intake. Just had the flat bosses. I drilled and tapped them for 1/2" pipe threads and bought the fittings and hose from Summit.

Older stock cast iron intakes used to have rear crossovers. Not many aluminum intakes have them or have the rear bosses either. You will have dead areas in the rear water passages without a rear crossover.


http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/intake3.jpg

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/intake4.jpg

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad249/blownt/intake5.jpg

I believe the intent with the water outlets at the back of the heads is to get decent water circulation at the back of the motor.Without this the back of the heads tend to run hotter than the front. Mostly this doesn't matter but in a performance engine it does and can lead to steam pockets , false mixture readings and detonation in the 7 and 8 cylinders. More important in a 4 1/8" bore and up because there is no water path between the cylinders.

 

[Ted Brown]

I think with high pro, intakes, they are trying to keep them (intakes) as cool as possible... street needs heat for fuel mileage, not looking for every once of power... Plus the track intakes are not made to run that long, no worry about the rear cyls. running hotter...
Sometimes it is hard for people to understand that there is a big difference between a street engine and a track engine and equipment... Drive safe