Anyone running water lines directly to heads, instead of using the manifold, thermostat, etc? Would appreciate any hints, what fittings you used, how'd it turn out, etc.
Anyone running water lines directly to heads, instead of using the manifold, thermostat, etc? Would appreciate any hints, what fittings you used, how'd it turn out, etc.
I am.....running a 392 Hemi with 6-71 blower @ 5% underdrive redlining @ 6000 rpm. Using summit straight up type of water inlet coming straight off front of heads.....drilled and tapped for 5/16 std. thread. the thread plugs are welded into the heads, and also the water inlet is o-ringed to the head also....done on a bridgport with a angleplate and a boring head.
Have run the engine in for 4 1/4 hours on the dyno....horses have crept up from about 575, now to 628.25 horses.....no problems yet.....
I am.....running a 392 Hemi with 6-71 blower @ 5% underdrive redlining @ 6000 rpm. Using summit straight up type of water inlet coming straight off front of heads.....drilled and tapped for 5/16 std. thread. the thread plugs are welded into the heads, and also the water inlet is o-ringed to the head also....done on a bridgport with a angleplate and a boring head.
Have run the engine in for 4 1/4 hours on the dyno....horses have crept up from about 575, now to 628.25 horses.....no problems yet.....
Hi S.M., have a question on your breakin and running of your engine. Is the 50 h.p. increase over the 4 hours purely breakin or tuning also? Also what do you hope to be the final result?
Thanx, John
Sorry Poyvin Guy, didn't mean to step on your post. By the way, beautiful execution of auto art in your T.
Hi S.M., have a question on your breakin and running of your engine. Is the 50 h.p. increase over the 4 hours purely breakin or tuning also? Also what do you hope to be the final result?
Thanx, John
Sorry Poyvin Guy, didn't mean to step on your post. By the way, beautiful execution of auto art in your T.
OK OK OK guys....I strapped it into the dyno, cranked it up.....ran decent.....changed the jets....ran better, then I changed the timing....went the wrong way....ran worse...back the other way....picked up 10 horses there.....changed the plugs.....got 4 there (Platnum splitfire)....changed out collector length...lost 4..... went bigger....gained 6....changed jets agian....picked up 6.....went from 10% underdrive to 5%....got a bunch there....that was at 615 to 618....then as I let it run and rings started sealing and valves and all....it slowly crept up.....several steady 6000 busrts for 8 and 10 seconds each.....let her cool down some.....then ran her in at 3200 for about 10 minutes.....then varied the rpm between idle and 4000 for the next 2 hours.....
Hi S.M., have a question on your breakin and running of your engine. Is the 50 h.p. increase over the 4 hours purely breakin or tuning also? Also what do you hope to be the final result?
Thanx, John
Sorry Poyvin Guy, didn't mean to step on your post. By the way, beautiful execution of auto art in your T.
That 50 horse increase is at very controlled conditions.....on racing fuel.... and running all out.....I did adjust the timing and jetting for pump fuel...........
My goal was to shoot for a dependable 600 horse street engine running on todays regular fuel......on engines like these....the HP might change as much as 25 to 50 horses on fuel quality and temps, altitude. etc....but on a blown engine....temp is your major enemy..... altitude doesn't affect it as boost as I'm running now....but fuel quality certainly does....
Anyone running water lines directly to heads, instead of using the manifold, thermostat, etc? Would appreciate any hints, what fittings you used, how'd it turn out, etc.
Similarly interested because I'm building a Y-block with six deuces and took some pics of this one (which is driven extensively) for inspiration and ideas. Maybe helpful.
Similarly interested because I'm building a Y-block with six deuces and took some pics of this one (which is driven extensively) for inspiration and ideas. Maybe helpful.
Thanks to all for the good info. That pic looks like it uses NPT/hose fittings screwed into tapped holes in the heads. That's kinda what I had in mind, but will use NPT/AN fittings to mate with AN lines. Do you think I can drill the holes with a taper bit, or is there a better way?
Those look like 3/4 barbed fittings just drilled and tapped with the hoses slid on and radiator hose clamps clamping them on. Yes....you can taper drill them but on a drill chart which I'm sure you've got.....all you gotta do is to drill it out for the right size tap....( Drill doesn't have to be tapered unless you just want to), blow her out really good, put some thread sealant on the threads and screw em' in....
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