Windshield Setting Tape

[TriodeLuvr]

I just had glass cut for my new windshield frame. When I picked up the glass, they gave me a couple rolls of setting tape. The tape isn't quite what I was expecting. Rather than a rubber-like strip that will absorb shock, it's actually a wound-up ribbon of tar-like sealant. Is this what I should be using, with nothing else to protect the glass? I'm using frame material from CCR that has a channel cut .215 deep and .315 wide. The glass is typical 1/4" safety glass about 38" x 18".

Jack

 

[2old2fast]

I "think" you'll find that ribbon to be sealant impregnated fabric tape , used for eons to set glass , if it takes up enough space , you should not have a problem with it. I used inner tube rubber [bicycle] , has worked for 12 years.
dave

 

[old round fart]

I always pay them to install glass. That way THEY pay if it gets broken!

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Dave, I might need to use something thinner than inner tube material, maybe a rim strip. There's only 1/16" total difference between the glass and channel width. Do you use any type of sealant with the inner tube strips?

Jack

 

[railroad]

Use something like inner tube strips to center the glass in the channel. Locate the strips in enough areas to keep the glass and channel parallel. I used a top grade of black silicone or RTV to fill the channel enough for the glass to push the sealer to the top edge, when pressed in the channel. If it does not fill completely or over runs you can add a bead with a chalking gun or wipe off the excess. If you do not like the wiping part, let it cure and cut everything flush with a razor.
If you will cut your strips short of flush with the edge of the channel, the sealer will cover then and it will look like a continuous bead of black. They do have other colors of sealers if that is your thing. Clear does not look good.
good luck,

 

[RESINATOR]

Jack, the best bet is to use "glass tape". Most glass shops have this stuff, maybe just not the right thickness for you. It is made to install and hold glass into a channel. You will need the 5/64" thickness for your frame. The glass tape we sell is in a 1.5" wide strip sold in a 20' roll, you wont need much more than half that. This stuff is sort of sticky and is wrapped around the edge of the glass, slipped into the frame and trimmed off flush with the edge of the windshield frame. Our glass shop normally uses black silicone to run a nice bead around to join the glass to the frame after trimming the tape off.

 

[2old2fast]

Jack , no sealer , just wrapped the edge [taped in place, I started w/ rubber strips about 2" wide]of the glass , silicone sprayed the rubber & drove it home w/ a rubber mallet trimmed the excess ...& that's what i had , about 1/16" clearance. A friend of mine races bikes , the tubes from those tires is very thin !
dave

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Dave, thanks for your suggestion on this. I tried a test fit today, and the bicycle inner tube strips fit pretty well. They're much thinner than the motorcycle tubes I was thinking about, and in fact, they're slightly loose in the channel. That's not a problem though, there are several ways to tighten the fit. I'll probably want to use the "real" glass tape eventually, but the rubber strips will make it easier to disassemble the frame and remove the glass for future work. I'll need to do that in just a few more weeks so I can mill the side rails for quick-disconnect hardware for the new top. Next spring (when I'm hoping the mountain of maintenance work this car needs will be under better control), I'll need to take the glass out again to have the windshield frame powder coated. If I'm lucky, that will be the end of it.

Incidentally, the rolls of ribbon the guy gave me at the glass shop are indeed sealant only. I have no idea why he gave them to me, except as a last resort to get me out the door. He had told me a week earlier when I placed the order that he would give me a roll of 3/64" setting tape when I picked up the glass. However, when I arrived, he didn't have it, and he couldn't remember us discussing a specific size (even though I had told him twice that it was 3/64" and he had checked to see if they had it). Anyway, that's why I didn't order the tape when I ordered the glass, and that's why I don't have any now.

Jerry, does your glass shop apply the black silicone to keep water out, or is it a cosmetic finish? Should I be concerned that the glass tape alone might not be sufficient to create a watertight seal between the glass and frame? Also, when you said 5/64" inch tape, was that a typo or are you using thicker tape now? The older thread on this project refers to it as 3/64" tape:

http://www.tbucketeers.com/threads/windshield-frame-material.13335/

Darn, I should have added the tape to the order when I bought those mirrors. Speaking of which, they sure are the real deal (just like everything you sell). Excellent quality and exactly the style I was looking for!

Below are a few photos of the work so far. Sorry for the crappy flash shots.

Jack

 

[old round fart]

For your quick disconnect top, think about the small bearclaw latches. Put the post on the w/s frame and sink the other part in the headboard. John

 

[TriodeLuvr]

I've been looking at latches for several weeks now. Here's the type I've decided to try. They're short enough to fit in the amount of space I've allocated for this above the support rods, plus they have a safety catch and they're available in stainless. A pair will run about $30. I don't know yet exactly how I'm going to make the top fold, but these are the starting point.

Most recent photo of the car:

 

[rbsWELDER]

I've been looking at latches for several weeks now. Here's the type I've decided to try. They're short enough to fit in the amount of space I've allocated for this above the support rods, plus they have a safety catch and they're available in stainless. A pair will run about $30. I don't know yet exactly how I'm going to make the top fold, but these are the starting point.

Most recent photo of the car:

Where are you sourcing those latches?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Where are you sourcing those latches?

McMaster-Carr, part no. 1864A17. They have a huge selection of draw latches and toggle clamps.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=ox6bsq

 

[RESINATOR]

Jack, your work looks great, especially the upper corner. You are right, 3/64" is the correct size. We used the 5/64" for the steel tubing we used to use (Mr. Roadster type). Sorry we did not ask if you wanted the glass tape when you ordered.

 

[TriodeLuvr]

Thanks Jerry. I'll probably have the top joints welded like you suggested, once all the other work is out of the way. That will keep the side rails from loosening and twisting under stress. I'm sure I can find a few more items to order soon, I'll add the tape then.