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A little update

Johnny

Member
I made a floor out of some scrap plywood, so I could mock up my shifter and E-brake without having to install body. I think it worked out okay.

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This is my home made torque stay. I think this will keep the movement to a minimum. What do ya think?
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Here is my steering stabilizer from So-Cal. Took me awhile to find a clamp that would work on Ron Pope's heavy duty radius rod. I think it will really help.


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You say steering stabilizer will help? Sorry but have you drove this ? Does it have bump steer or shimmy? Stabilizers are usually covering for some other problem.
 
Wow! I think I will stop showing any of my build. All these items I've done have come from all the different posts and conversations about steering stabilizers and torque stays and I have taken the advice of a lot of the gurus on here that sure seem to know what they are talkin about. So, I am sorry if this is buggin you, putz, and 2old2fast.

I guess I'll just wait until I'm finished and show a pic of it. Or, not. I'm not so sure right now. Sheesh!
 
Sorry !! Not trying to be mean-spirited... the simple answer may be to simply relocate your brakelines ??? Anything "solid mounted" will cause unwanted vibration & stress.

dave
 
Sorry if I upset you. Just my opinion don't have to use it just mine.
 
I have read that many have a theory that if you need a stabilizer, then something is wrong with your suspension. I put on close to 2000 miles on my newly built T this last year before I developed a death wobble at about 35 mph after hitting a small pot hole on the right shoulder. Situation before I touched anything, checked alignment it was :
Camber Left= -1/2degree right= -1 degree
Caster left= +6.5 degrees, right= 7 degrees
Toe in= 1/4"
Tires are radials MT 24by 5/15" Tire inflation L= 32 psi, right 27psi
Found one jamb nut loose on the tie rod, both wheel bearings were loose and out of spec.
Right front tire was out of balance

The fix:
1)Remove and inspect wheel bearings, repack and torque to 20lb/ft then loosen nut , re-torque while spining tire(no brake caliper), loosen one flat install cotter pin. Checked by spining tire, very slight drag, they are tighter than normal spec, so I'll leave them there and watch for wear but think I'll be fine with that light front end.
2) Inflate both front tires to 22psi, balance rt front.
3) re-align front end to:
Caster: 6 degrees both sides
Toe out 1/16"
4) Torque all heims and tighten jamb nuts.
5) Install SoCal steering dampner

Even though I did find a problem before jumping to the steering dampner, installing the dampner made a big difference on how the car rode. My theory is we are driving around with parts designed over 100 years ago at triple the speed, if they would of had a steering dampner back then, you could of bet Henry would of stuck it on.
BTW, I like those radius arms the Pope made. Pretty beefy, some may say over built, I say it is good insurance.
 
I do have to agree with Jonny on this one. Keep up the good work and picks coming .
 
Well, maybe I did get a little touchy. No harm, no foul.

Here is the finished flatbed, tail lights and license plate frame with light. I think it looks preety good.


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Are you running the stabilizer to the steering arm? Could you back up and give us a better shot of how it is mounted and how it will work to stabilize the steering?
The torque limiter is fine. Nice that it adjustable. After everything is said and done, you might not need it.
 
It just clamps on the drag link with a clamp similar to a tierod clamp.
 
If the rest is as nice as the but this will be a reallly nifty lookin build:)
 
Well, here is where I am now. Finishing up the wiring and then I will work on mounting electric fan and overflow tank. Gettin closer everyday!

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I will be interested in seeing if the stabilizer works in that location, never seen one mounted like that. Not saying it will not work - I guess it depends on what you are trying to dampen.
 

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