Any advice on grinding and smoothing down welds?

[kev23t]

I am thinking of smoothing out the welds on my radius arms and front axle. As long as I do not go down to where the weld is flat with the material I should be ok correct? I definately do not want to weaken the welds but I want a smoother appearance. Any advicve would be appreciated.

 

[putz]

body filler is a good alternative.

 

[rooster57]

if you know some one with a TIG machine have them washover your welds they will lay down like butta. When i say washover i mean just the tig arc no materal added . Also think about where the weld is after assembly if you cant see it dont grind it.

 

[one finger john]

if you know some one with a TIG machine have them washover your welds they will lay down like butta. When i say washover i mean just the tig arc no materal added . Also think about where the weld is after assembly if you cant see it dont grind it.

Perhaps a light bead blast to smooth things a little more?

 

[Donmon]

I like using a Tiger wheel on a 4" grinder, thats the wheel that looks like layers of sand paper fan'ed across the wheel. Them a scotch brite pad on a angle head air sander to finish it off.

-Don

 

[Northstar T]

I am thinking of smoothing out the welds on my radius arms and front axle. As long as I do not go down to where the weld is flat with the material I should be ok correct? I definately do not want to weaken the welds but I want a smoother appearance. Any advicve would be appreciated.

I absolutly could not build a car without these. best thing since sliced bread. also available in rolox style for tight areas.
http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/servlet/the-19/4"-Flap-Disc-40/Detail

 

[Gerry]

I absolutly could not build a car without these. best thing since sliced bread. also available in rolox style for tight areas.
http://www.lehighval...http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/servlet/the-19/4%22-Flap-Disc-40/Detail

Hi
I know people are not going to believe me but I use a Dremel with a flexible shaft and some of the 1/2 inch sanding drums. Also with a small lightweight flex shaft its easy to get to those places that are difficult with any other set up They eat welds and produce a nice radius finish. The sanding drums are available on e bay at a good price. Go for the zirconium ones if you can.
If you are not sure what I mean let me know and I will take pictures of my setup. Other choice is a die grinder with a GOOD burr. I have done all my welds (that are in sight) with one of these tools
Gerry

 

[Northstar T]

. Other choice is a die grinder with a GOOD burr. I have done all my welds (that are in sight) with one of these tools
Gerry

Yup. I built a board 12" x 12" with 3/8 holes drilled in it to "plant" die grinders in. you can buy die grinders at Harbor freight, on sale, for ten bucks or so, so I own a dozen or more and have various sizes of carbide burrs and grinding/cutting wheels in each one. that way I don't ever have to change tools in one.

Russ

 

[Gerry]

Yup. I built a board 12" x 12" with 3/8 holes drilled in it to "plant" die grinders in. you can buy die grinders at Harbor freight, on sale, for ten bucks or so, so I own a dozen or more and have various sizes of carbide burrs and grinding/cutting wheels in each one. that way I don't ever have to change tools in one.

Russ

Hey me too. I built a board with holes in to take all the various grinders in
In case anyone is confused here are a couple of pics of the Dremel stuff. Excuse sate of my fingers I have just been sanding the underside of the body


Gerry

 

[Screaming Metal]

Well, since I do alot of welding I love Roosters Idea...you can make it look like a machine did it, with little or no grinding. This is just me, but I weld all the time, I always bevel, and if I'm MIG welding, I go hot, deep, and for a flat appearence. TIG, you have alot more control and thats what I do on critical stuff. I mostly tack-mig the frames, Tig the finished product.
On my frame which is 2x3 3/16, I beveled everything and laid it in .035 mild steel wire, with 75/25 gas, argon/co2.

On finishing, I use the 4 1/2 grinder with the FatMax 200 grit flapwheel. After it looks completely smooth, I get the Roloc disc's out to get it all nice and shiney, then check everything for straightness, then I stressrelieve if needed, the I hand it off to my painter...

 

[Gerry]

Well, since I do alot of welding I love Roosters Idea...you can make it look like a machine did it, with little or no grinding. This is just me, but I weld all the time, I always bevel, and if I'm MIG welding, I go hot, deep, and for a flat appearence. TIG, you have alot more control and thats what I do on critical stuff. I mostly tack-mig the frames, Tig the finished product.
On my frame which is 2x3 3/16, I beveled everything and laid it in .035 mild steel wire, with 75/25 gas, argon/co2.

On finishing, I use the 4 1/2 grinder with the FatMax 200 grit flapwheel. After it looks completely smooth, I get the Roloc disc's out to get it all nice and shiney, then check everything for straightness, then I stressrelieve if needed, the I hand it off to my painter...

Ah Rolocs
Now theres a good way of grinding. Pricey but good

 

[kev23t]

I am thinking of hitting just the parts of the welds that stand up the tallest and using a little bondo. Is bondo the best to use on welds?

Well, since I do alot of welding I love Roosters Idea...you can make it look like a machine did it, with little or no grinding. This is just me, but I weld all the time, I always bevel, and if I'm MIG welding, I go hot, deep, and for a flat appearence. TIG, you have alot more control and thats what I do on critical stuff. I mostly tack-mig the frames, Tig the finished product.
On my frame which is 2x3 3/16, I beveled everything and laid it in .035 mild steel wire, with 75/25 gas, argon/co2.

On finishing, I use the 4 1/2 grinder with the FatMax 200 grit flapwheel. After it looks completely smooth, I get the Roloc disc's out to get it all nice and shiney, then check everything for straightness, then I stressrelieve if needed, the I hand it off to my painter...

 

[Ted Brown]

Axles and radius rods a hand file works the very best, never too much off, and if it is not in your eye, like the front cross member and spring perch, may as well leave them alone, IF they don't look like BIRD CRAP... A good sand blast pretty much stress relives things... I powder the whole frame in Satin Black, then cap coat the outside edge of the frame from fire wall forward, with the color of my choice, and the whole front cross member and perch, as I do not want to see the inside of the frame, only the long smooth lines of the chassis and body... I hate to have to be polishing all the time, especially the inside of the frame or the under/bottom side... Driving turns me on...

 

[Youngster]

I like the flapper wheels on sheet metal (12ga. and down) but use 5" disc's on everything else. I have a connection with one of the local factories here. They save me their used 7" disc's. get 2-300 at a time. LOL, they don't know how to use them. If I cut them down 2" I've got new disc's for the most part. I made a fixture for my old horz./vert. band saw to do this. When a saw blade gets too worn or has teeth missing I put it aside for the disc's. Russ, ya got me beat, I only have 8 die grinders hanging on a wall rack. Gerry, love my Dremel too. I keep my accessories in a plastic fishing lure box. I have 2 motors mounted on a tripod one 1375 rpm for aluminum and one 3450 rpm for steel both with flex shafts on them and a whole bunch of cone rolls of various grits. My dyna-file is my good friend too. And of course my 3" Roloc's. Can you say detailing???

Ron

 

[hotrodman]

I am thinking of hitting just the parts of the welds that stand up the tallest and using a little bondo. Is bondo the best to use on welds?

I use a die grinder with a cone shaped carbide burr(but not so much as to weaken the weld),then Duraglas(a two part short hair fiberglass),then a bondo of your choice(I like Rage),then Icing(finishing putty-2 part).Sanding between each one.Check out the JoAnn Bortles book on motorcycle painting.

 

[Ted Brown]

I like the flapper wheels on sheet metal (12ga. and down) but use 5" disc's on everything else. I have a connection with one of the local factories here. They save me their used 7" disc's. get 2-300 at a time. LOL, they don't know how to use them. If I cut them down 2" I've got new disc's for the most part. I made a fixture for my old horz./vert. band saw to do this. When a saw blade gets too worn or has teeth missing I put it aside for the disc's. Russ, ya got me beat, I only have 8 die grinders hanging on a wall rack. Gerry, love my Dremel too. I keep my accessories in a plastic fishing lure box. I have 2 motors mounted on a tripod one 1375 rpm for aluminum and one 3450 rpm for steel both with flex shafts on them and a whole bunch of cone rolls of various grits. My dyna-file is my good friend too. And of course my 3" Roloc's. Can you say detailing???

Ron

Ron, You have that backwards, the fast RPM is for Alum and Wood, the slow is for steel... Use Bee's wax or WD40 on the cutters for Alum, no clogging at all and same goes with disks on Alum... Wax or spray them...

 

[Youngster]

Oppsssss!!!!! didn't proof read ... WD-40 works very well on files and cutting blades. I have a stick of machining wax made by DuAll to use on disc's. Also a 30 gallon drum of elbo grease ... LOL

Ron

 

[kev23t]

Hey Ted, what hand file would I need? When I sandblast before I paint it will stress relieve? Please explain. Thank you

Axles and radius rods a hand file works the very best, never too much off, and if it is not in your eye, like the front cross member and spring perch, may as well leave them alone, IF they don't look like BIRD CRAP... A good sand blast pretty much stress relives things... I powder the whole frame in Satin Black, then cap coat the outside edge of the frame from fire wall forward, with the color of my choice, and the whole front cross member and perch, as I do not want to see the inside of the frame, only the long smooth lines of the chassis and body... I hate to have to be polishing all the time, especially the inside of the frame or the under/bottom side... Driving turns me on...

 

[Screaming Metal]

Well my friend, I don't believe Ted intended on you to sandblast AFER you painted......

 

[kev23t]

LoL I know that. I meant I just want to know why sandblasting stress relieves. Never sandblasted before.