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Attaching heim joint rod ends

Also Ted you wont see the pic untill you get out and go back to the catagory and then you can see your post.
 
Well thats nice to know, as maybe that was what was happening before?? Hope to get it right one of these times, Thanks so much for your help. I only hope I can save some folks some time and money on their projects, these type of cars are the wildest thing on the road, bar none, and with husky engines, they are the quickest also, not the fastest, but quick.:) and I know you already know this... hehe
 
Youngster said:
ted is correct, the heims should be at a 90degree angle to the bolt holding them. when you cycle the steering lock to lock, the angle dose change somewhat. if you use the coned washers, you eliminate the chance of putting them in a bind. be sure to include the safety washer.
Click to expand...

An interesting discussion. Would it then be best to weld your radius rod frame mounting brackets in-line with the radius rods?
 
all-world1 said:
An interesting discussion. Would it then be best to weld your radius rod frame mounting brackets in-line with the radius rods?
Click to expand...
Yes you are correct if you are using heim type frame mounting ends. But, the axle swings up and down in a circle around that mounting point... So, if you weld your mounting plates at an angle, and say you were able to swing the axle up to say a 90 degree angle, what would you have then?? All wrong at that point, as far as correct goes, but, with long radius Rods and not that much up and down movement, it is not that critical, as there will be enough flex in the rod ends used to lessen the strain on the bolt and bracket.. Sorry for the long answer, just that it is hard to say this is the way to do someting and then not to do it myself, so, why?? :lol: I have made the mistake of "telling" someone else that it was wrong, when it was OK to do it in that case anyway... With these cars being so light and not being drivin off road, and needing a ton of wheel travel, We all can get by with pretty much whatever we do, as long as it is strong enough. :) Make it look great to YOU... as it is your ride.:cool:
 
yes craig, on the frame you're building assemble the hair pins to the axle. now wield the tubes for the bushed end bolts at a 90 degree angle to the hair pins. that would put the tubes at an angle to the frame rails.

Ron
 
In all reality, the mounting bolts should be parallel with the axle, either ft or rear, unless it is a 4 bar mounted with the rods at an angle, as they are best mounted at a 90 degree to the axle. :lol: oops 90 degrees to the 4 bar rods, any rod that swings from both ends. Clear as Mud.. hehe
 
All,

VERY helpful information. Thanks alot! Both stores did not have the 1/4" thick locknuts but I'm working on the other sources.

Ron,

Still not sure I understand how the cone spacers work. For example, do they go under the heim and on top of the steering arm? And how do they eliminate the binding?
Bruce
 
Track T-4 said:
All,

VERY helpful information. Thanks alot! Both stores did not have the 1/4" thick locknuts but I'm working on the other sources.

Ron,

Still not sure I understand how the cone spacers work. For example, do they go under the heim and on top of the steering arm? And how do they eliminate the binding?
Bruce
Click to expand...

Sorry if this was mentioned before, but hard to find hardware can usually be found at www.mcmastercarr.com

David
 
Okay, I found the half-height stop nuts. I added safety washers and they're perfect! :dance: Found them at the local marina.

BUT, now I noticed the bolts that go through the heim joints are loose in the spindle holes. Not alot, maybe 1/16" difference in diameter but it doesn't feel right and it's enough to put play in the steering. :rolleyes:

So what am I missing? Earlier in this thread there was discussion about cone spacers but it looks like they have an angled surface and the spindle and heim joints have square edges. So I'm not sure they're the solution. :confused:
 
you are running '37 to '40 round back spindles. if they haven't been drilled out, they have a 7 degree taper to them. here's you helper;


MONROE TIE ROD CONVERSION KIT


pt# 535-AK35 $4.99 a pr.

call them first to see if the straight stud is the same size as the hole in you heim.

Ron
 
Youngster,

You are an amazing wealth of information! I called and the diameter is the same as the heim and the hole in the spindle is in fact tapered. The parts are ordered.

I've been "retrofitting" all kinds of stuff on this T since buying it. The previous owner installed 1/2" bolts and they were very loose in the tapered spindles....this will be an improvement to the steering and the other tips in this thread will be an improvement to safety (orgiinal owner had standard nuts on the tie rods/steering and no washers). It's amazing what I've been able to re-do - with the help of people on this site like yourself.

I love this site, can't get enough. It is a super benefit to T-newbies like myself. :rolleyes:

THANKS!!!!
 
Track T-4 said:
Youngster,

You are an amazing wealth of information! I called and the diameter is the same as the heim and the hole in the spindle is in fact tapered. The parts are ordered.

I've been "retrofitting" all kinds of stuff on this T since buying it. The previous owner installed 1/2" bolts and they were very loose in the tapered spindles....this will be an improvement to the steering and the other tips in this thread will be an improvement to safety (orgiinal owner had standard nuts on the tie rods/steering and no washers). It's amazing what I've been able to re-do - with the help of people on this site like yourself.

I love this site, can't get enough. It is a super benefit to T-newbies like myself. :rolleyes:

THANKS!!!!
Click to expand...

Ron definitely is the Man!!! :cool:
 
you guys are just asking the right questions and making me look good is all. nothing special here!

Ron
 
The tapered washer is just to provide clearance for the rod end when it's off on an angle. If you had a large flat washer it would sit close to the rod end and maybe run into it when it flexed and cause a bind.
 
Youngster,

Today I received the conversion kit bolts from Speedway but I have a problem....I'll see if I can explain. The tapered hole in the spindle arm is a smaller diameter at the top and larger at the bottom. When I insert the bolt that way the longer end for attaching the tie rod is at the bottom (under the arm) but my tie rods sit on top of the arm. Can't put the tie rods under the spindles because of frame clearance. Now what? :lol:
 
re-taper the hole half way through the spindle arm. if you have 3/8" of the taper you're good to go.

Ron
 
Youngster,

Im not sure I understand. Please correct me if Im wrong - what I think you are saying is partially reverse the taper in the spindle arm so the bolt can be flipped 180 degrees and be inserted from the top, is that right? If correct, the arm is only thick so Im not sure I can get 3/8 of useable taper.I can get maybe .

Is the taper really necessary? Would it make sense to ream out the spindle arm hole to the widest part of the taper and go from there?

Is this a usual modification with these arms or is something messed up with my setup?

Thanks,
Bruce
 
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