brake line question

[jmr122848]

Group
I bought the least expensive of Speedway's complete brake kits with the early calipers.

notice the bosses above the brake line bung. Notice the zerk on the king pin. Notice the problem?

this is the brake hose. If it has to go between the bosses it is too short for my front end.

does it have to go that way? are longer hoses availabel with this end? will another end work? can I cut the bosses off so I can lube the care without removing the caliper? Have I lost it? the tie rod, drag link and stearing arm are temps. Any comments?

 

[railroad]

Try a 45 or 90* grease fitting. Give me a close up of that spring hanger. I do not want anything bad to happen.

 

[Keeper]

I ran into that same situation. I ended up using 45 degree adapters, then I had to grind down the opposite side of the hose mount on the caliper to make it all work.

 

[jmr122848]

Keeper, so you changed the hoses and used adapters? Your setup looks good. where did you grind?
Railroad I had not thought of the angled zerks, that may help. The pring hanger is Speedway as are the shackles, the bat wings are RPM, I moved the hiems outside the bat wings for more clearance. nothing touches even with 300# of me bouncing on the front., what looks funny to you? I can shoot from the back tonight if you think there's a problem.

 

[Keeper]

Well once I had the adapters and lines, I put them on and snugged them up. Once I found a good angle where they would not hit anything. Then I ground down around the area so it will seat.

I will take some pics of it later and post it up.

Those are Russell brake lines, not the cheapest out there but a good investment.

 

[railroad]

JMR, I just cannot see enough weld around the hanger to the frame. It could be the picture. The hanger should also have 5 to 7* tilt from back to front. You may have all this, but I just can't tell by the picture.

 

[Keeper]

Oh yeah I forgot to mention, I have the same issue with the zerks. Requires me to remove the steering arm to grease it. Its not greased enough for me to worry about it, I do it once at the beginning of the season and run it that way. One of these days if I am bored out of my mind, I will try and find a solution.

 

[Keeper]

Okay here are some pics. You can see where the line was supposed to exit and where I ground it out to make it work for me.

I used "Caliper" paint when I did these, might as well have used the cheap stuff, this stuff still hates brake fluid! Gonna repaint them this winter.

 

[EX JUNK]

That is why I use Silicone type fluid, no paint damage. I have it in both of my street rods and absolutely no problems. Great brakes also.

Jim

 

[jmr122848]

Keeper, thanks! that clears it up. Now maybe I can finger it out.
Railroad, ahh you spoted that huh? that mount is bolted on. when I get everything fitted and am sure the ride hight is Right, I will dissassemble and finish weld everything. Only the basic frame is finish welded now. I have moved every mount (except that spring hanger that is bolted and the motor mounts, which are bolted) at least once, and some of them many times. Most are now tacked or bolted. when I get the rest of the mounts (brake line, head light, shocks , master cyclnder, radiator) I will tear it down, turn it over, and spend a ton of wire!

 

[Youngn]

I dont know if it is possible, but try swapping the front calipers from side to side so that the line is facing down not up, that should put it out of the way of the steering arm.

 

[jmr122848]

thats a thought, I'll look tonight!

 

[2old2fast]

If you reverse the calipers , you'll probably put the bleeder screw at the bottom , then you won't be able to bleed the breaks [w/out removing & inverting]
dave

 

[jmr122848]

yes, I noticed that. fooy