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Cam help for sb350

Call your local speed shop and tell them you are wanting to buy a Comp Cams 12-211-2.

Duration @ .050" - 224° I / 224° E
Advertised Duration - 270° I / 270° E
Lobe Lift - .313" I / .313" E
Valve Lift (w/ 1.5 rockers) - .470" I / .470" E
Lobe Separation Angle - 110°
Power Band - 1800 - 5800 RPM

Let's face it, you want this thing to make a pile of torque, but you are also wanting that lumpy idle, so just order this one and be finished with it. Buy a decent set of rocker arms, like 1212-1 Comp Cams, which will get you verified ratios, long slots and grooved pivot balls. Pull the springs off your heads and measure installed heights and coil bind heights. Verify the springs will have adequate coil bind clearance (Installed height - valve lift - coil bind height = clearance). See this page if you cannot wrap your head around the math. Verify the springs will have adequate loads. Use a quality timing set and don't fret about chasing the trick of the week, just put the cam in, straight-up.

Personally, I wouldn't use that intake, but if that is the look you are after, then bolt it on and go for it.

I see RPM just posted about the Chevy performance cams, which are also good choices.

Yes sir Mr Mike my local machine shop is supplying all the engine parts. They are a Comp distributor, and came in just a hair over the big box stores, but I enjoy sitting on the stool at their counter telling lies and shooting the shizit. Money well spent. I have bought exclusively for this car from local shops and forum sponsors here (RPM) and plan to keep it that way unless it's something I just can't get through them.
 
Just to put a bug in everyones bonnet....Mellings as been a oil pump maker for the duration. BUT, they used to sell the direct replacement factory grinds, really the same thing as the factory really cheap. The stock factory cams would run with all your standard stuff, saving money. Any performance motor, in my opinion, needs guideplates and screw in studs, w/ polylocks. And if you have the heads with the guide type holes, they will have to be opened up to install and use screw in studs and guideplates.
To make 350 horses with the 327 motor, you needed some strong valve action to get that.
Yes, ask many diff. ENGINE BUILDERS what is needed, and you can get many answers. Its best to ask the right questions. When building a street motor, its best to go a little milder. Street/strip, a little hotter.
Ask a ENGINE BUILDER to select a cam, be prepared to answer about 30 questions....
RV cam or hot Factory Grind....his choice. Also, not all RV cams are 'Low End' cams, ie, only making power between idle to 3500....
 
Just to put a bug in everyones bonnet....Mellings as been a oil pump maker for the duration. BUT, they used to sell the direct replacement factory grinds, really the same thing as the factory really cheap. The stock factory cams would run with all your standard stuff, saving money. Any performance motor, in my opinion, needs guideplates and screw in studs, w/ polylocks. And if you have the heads with the guide type holes, they will have to be opened up to install and use screw in studs and guideplates.
To make 350 horses with the 327 motor, you needed some strong valve action to get that.
Yes, ask many diff. ENGINE BUILDERS what is needed, and you can get many answers. Its best to ask the right questions. When building a street motor, its best to go a little milder. Street/strip, a little hotter.
Ask a ENGINE BUILDER to select a cam, be prepared to answer about 30 questions....
RV cam or hot Factory Grind....his choice. Also, not all RV cams are 'Low End' cams, ie, only making power between idle to 3500....
I had a chance to sit down with the guy who runs the only performance machine shop in my area today. Incidentally I found out he started in the machine shop business when he was 16, working for my Dad in his shop before I was born. Had a fantastic talk kicking over old times. Long story short he is not a fan of the 193 heads i have except in what they were designed for which was trucks. He even showed my flow charts and they are quite duds after 3500 rpm. His recommendation without spending money on another engine is running the 350hp cam RPM and others suggested, run some aftermarket springs with good pushrods and he assured me it would be a good setup. Actually a similar cam is made with a little different geometry but with the same lift/duration, that works a little better, and is made by several different companies as some of you have stated. Those old engines were around 10.25-1 so the newer grinds run better with lower compression and regular gas. (This was his advice, I was just the student). $600 for all the machine work. Valve job, boring, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, new pistons pressed on, all cleaned up and ready to go. Even included bead blasting my intake. Can't go wrong with that.
 
I've never heard of 193 heads, maybe they came out after I got out of hot rodding. Back in the day, I was a big fan of the 194 heads from the mid-'60s and '70s. They were cheap and plentiful, and although they don't flow as well at 8K as 202s, there's virtually no difference for street use with the right cam. If you've got truck heads that can't breathe above 3,500, I'd seriously consider starting with something else. Good luck with the project, it's always fun bringing a new motor to life. :thumbsup:

Jack
 
I've never heard of 193 heads, maybe they came out after I got out of hot rodding. Back in the day, I was a big fan of the 194 heads from the mid-'60s and '70s. They were cheap and plentiful, and although they don't flow as well at 8K as 202s, there's virtually no difference for street use with the right cam. If you've got truck heads that can't breathe above 3,500, I'd seriously consider starting with something else. Good luck with the project, it's always fun bringing a new motor to life. :thumbsup:

Jack
I had not dealt with the 193 heads either until I happened upon this engine, which I have not a dime in (one of those trade deals). 193's are TBI heads from 88- I believe 95, then Chevy went vortec. The vortec heads are much better, but the intake bolts go straight down, not at an angle so intakes aren't interchangeable. I honestly don't care about high performance with this engine, I only want to run enough cam to make the engine a little happier, just because I want to run the old school single top. My engine machinist put it this way. A 2011 GT mustang at 411 hp, had a power to weight ratio of 8.75 to 1. He assures me that we will get 300 hp out of this engine even with these heads. Even if project Obie comes in at 2000 lbs, and hits only 275 Hp, that's a power to weight ratio of 7.27-1. Basically 1 hp for every 7.27 pounds of car, and that's way way lower than just about every car ever made. I know i could get a lot more performance with a better setup but that = mo $$. I'm not a Hotrod expert by ANY means, but just knowing math, I think all these cars even with a bone stock engine are as we say, "10 pound of shizit in a 1 pound bag!" I left my need for speed in a hospital room in Cochran Georgia, when I took a late model sportsman car off a very high bank track and flipped it only God knows how many times. After I learned to walk again I enjoy the races from the comfort of my couch, big ol tv, sweat Tea in hand, beautiful bride beside me! And yes firing up an engine for the first time and hearing her come to life NEVER gets old! :thumbsup:
 
Sounds like you've been through one of those events most people don't get to talk about later. Glad you got through it OK. I like your machinist, he obviously knows cars, not just motor dimensions. Not all of them do. Keep us posted!

Jack
 
He even showed my flow charts and they are quite duds after 3500 rpm.
Here is one area where the fish always rise to the bait. You're not hitting the lure, and in the long run, you'll be a lot happier for it. :thumbsup:

Stop and think about how you are going to end up driving your T. And be realistic about it. One thing I will bet the farm on is that your motor is going to spend the greatest part of its new life between 700 and 3500 RPM. (I bet you could even knock the best part of another 1000 RPM from that top number, to be honest.) The percentage of time it will spend between 3500 and 6500 RPM is minuscule, by comparison. With that in mind, who really cares how the heads flow at bigger numbers? Those smaller runners and smaller valves are going to give you much crisper throttle response. Again, with that in mind, what are you really giving up? Nothing.
 
Alot of folks really don't think past just buying the parts and putting them together....thinking that they want a really hot motor to run on the street. Then are dissatisfied because they have a temperamental motor that doesn't like to idle, doesn't get any kinda fuel mileage, and is only happy when they got the accelerator mashed past 1/2 way to the floorboard....
If you can't cruise with it around town, whats the use? 3500rpm, going down the highway would get real old, really fast....
Yeah Mike, I think that top number would be about 3200....but thats just me. Save the 3800 for reving it in park or in neutral.
Besides, the way the cops are, drive too brisk on the street anymore, their liable to impound it. They can't even street race the way we used to when we were young.
Breelcream in the hair, smokes rolled up in the sleeve of the Tee, sun glasses on, 15 to 25 cents a gallon premium, cruisin' the circuit, thru the A&Ws, DairyQueens, Sonics, on Fri/Sat/Sun nights. Smell of raw unburned gas burning your eyes, the solid lifter rods roll by. Those were the days....
 
Alot of folks really don't think past just buying the parts and putting them together....thinking that they want a really hot motor to run on the street. Then are dissatisfied because they have a temperamental motor that doesn't like to idle, doesn't get any kinda fuel mileage, and is only happy when they got the accelerator mashed past 1/2 way to the floorboard....
If you can't cruise with it around town, whats the use? 3500rpm, going down the highway would get real old, really fast....
Yeah Mike, I think that top number would be about 3200....but thats just me. Save the 3800 for reving it in park or in neutral.
Besides, the way the cops are, drive too brisk on the street anymore, their liable to impound it. They can't even street race the way we used to when we were young.
Breelcream in the hair, smokes rolled up in the sleeve of the Tee, sun glasses on, 15 to 25 cents a gallon premium, cruisin' the circuit, thru the A&Ws, DairyQueens, Sonics, on Fri/Sat/Sun nights. Smell of raw unburned gas burning your eyes, the solid lifter rods roll by. Those were the days....
My machinist (Steve) told me this morning if I would just leave that intake in the trash can where it belongs, he would come by my shop after I got the engine back from him and all the parts together, he would assemble the engine for free, then come by after I got it put in the car and dial it all in for me. All I had to do was get the parts HE told me to get, and supply the canned adult beverages. And he said when I put the poster together all us "show not go" guys put up by the cars at the show, put his company name as engine builder. It's a hard thing to turn down!
 
Well, I wouldn't call a good single top tunnel ram manifold a trashcan piece, Far from it. Do what you want. I know of several folks that were talked out of putting blowers on their cars. I Like Blowers. I Love Blowers. Theres alot of folks here running Tunnelrams with little or no problems. So it can be done. I see your machinist is wanting to really help you out. Thats good!
If you want to run a TR, I say run it. YOU have to be happy with it, though....
Good Luck....
 
That's one of the smartest things I've read here in ages!
It's not necessarily so smart, as it is just plain-old common sense. Unfortunately, when a guy is building a street rod of any kind, he has visions of billet roller cams, 16.5:1 compression ratios and dual Dominators on a sheet metal intake dancing in his head. Of course, those are usually the same people who want to run stock valve springs, stock torque converters and 2.74:1 rear gears. I cannot begin to count the number of times someone would walk into the shop and tell me they wanted the biggest cam they could get, but still run stock valvetrain components and a stock converter. That isn't how to build power, that is just pi**ing away money.

It all comes down to a simple matter of asking yourself some real questions, and then being sensible enough to provide honest and real-world answers to those questions. If you have zero plans of ever screwing a motor up over 5,000 RPM, then why would you ever want to use components that are effective above that point?

The only time bigger equals better is when bigger is what is required to efficiently do the job.
 
After a couple hours on the stool at the machine shop we ordered the parts. Going with a comp cams L79 nostalgia kit which is cam, lifters, timing set, and new springs, retainers and locks Great price too. Going .030 over flat hyper pistons , Hastings rings and sealed power bearings and melling pump. Should wind up at 9.75 to 1. I got the comp cam roller tip rockers, new pushrods, and ARP rod bolts. Nothing real fancy but I believe it will make a good strong but very happy street driver. Should match up pretty close to the original L79 engines which were a real beast back in the day.
Didn't order the intake yet. I like the look of the old offy single tops a little better and I'll pic up an old set of finned offy valve covers and finned scoop to match. The plenum on the old offy was a little rounder and I think it will look a little more old school hot rod style.

Now off to work to pay for this obsession. Thanks again for all the great advice.
 

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