caster and bones set up

[Jeff]

Thanks to all! I pretty well got the rear end lined out, engine mounts in and transmission cross member moved back. Just waiting for new panhard bar and mounts to arrive. My old one was too tall. I need 2 or 2 1/2 inch bump stops yet I have 5 inches from axle to frame, any suggestions what fits the bill for 1 1/2 wide frame rails? Now for the front end. The frame is sitting at ride height. I have speedway bones with a mounting point in the 43 1/2 inch range. Right now I have 8 degrees at the axle shooting for the 5 degree range. My spring perch is sitting at 10 degrees so I will have to make a shim for the top and bottom. I understand that part and it's not a problem to do. Moving the perch is out of the question it was fully welded in when I got the frame. I moved the bones to the through frame attachment point and end up about 3 degrees at the axle. My spring is not loaded. Do you think I would end up in the 5 range if I though mount the bones at this point? I should get around 1.5 inch of up travel by my research. Is that correct? I currently have the long weld on speedway mounts but don't see them working out for my build. Would just like your thoughts and opinions before moving on with the build or purchasing parts. When I set the frame ride height I allowed 1 1/2 inches but need to recheck it at this point. Thank you, Jeff

 

[T-Test]

I use the rubber snubbers from bolt on traction bars for bump stops.Small and can be trimmed. Will need picture of the frame mounts and wishbones for an opinion on the caster. Last resort is to have a F/E alignment shop to bend axle to get what you want.

 

[Jeff]

ok my bad on the perch angle its 1.9 degrees at ride height. Here are some photos of where I am at with the front end. The first is with the bones attached through the frame which I like but only have 3 degrees. Don't know if I could get 2 degrees out of it when loaded, maybe one degree for a total of 4 degrees. The second set that I am posting is with the brackets below the frame which gives me about 8 degrees probably about 9 degrees when loaded. If I were to take the attachment point back a few threads on the rad ends it may gain a slight amount. I have 3/8 inch out right now don't want much more sticking out than that. I am going to put the other attachment point as a second post this is the though frame point. Thanks Jeff

 

[Jeff]

Here is the bracket attachment point perch is the same as in the last post also included a frame rake photo.

 

[2old2fast]

Clamp or tack the frame mounts in place. Pull the spring pivots out of the bones. Put a couple chunks of 2x between the axles and Jack stands . that will approximate your loaded position and then check your caster.
Dave

 

[Jeff]

Ok will do it but have to get the brackets left them at work. I took the bones loose and moved them up to get about 4- 4.5 degrees and was going to cut the brackets off 1 3/8 inch from the center of the mounting hole. Just didn't get to it today. Can't see buying more brackets that are not long enough or too long and need cut anyway. I measured 1 1/4 to get the figure and added 1/8 back due to the shim on the perch. You think it will settle 3 inches loaded? I figured on an inch and a half or did you mean a two by on each side? Thanks Dave

 

[2old2fast]

Sorry Jeff ...2xis short for 2x4 , meaning 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" , as in lumber dimension.... I'm a retired contractor & sometimes I think everybody talks that way .....so what I meant was to space the axle up 1 1/2" inches ....
dave

 

[Jeff]

I thought so Dave but was just making sure. I have done what you said and am now at 7 degrees with the 1 1/2 under the axle and the brackets cut off 1 3/8 on center with the rod end mounting hole. seven is better than 9 + which it would have most likely would have ended up at. I ordered a 3/8 spring spacer and spring bolt from posies to mill the lower perch angle into. So I will have to wait to see where it ends up after adding about 1/4 inch to the height which I kind of thought I might have to do even when setting the rear up so shouldn't be too bad in rake or anything like that I wouldn't think. I can take about 1/8 yet off the brackets but hate to ask the guys to mill them some more but did tell them I might need too. Here is a pic of the milled brackets. New panhard bracket arrive today just waiting for the j-bar now. Thanks Dave

 

[2old2fast]

7* should be fine ... don't know why you need angle /wedge under spring ??
dave

 

[Jeff]

I need the wedge and top plate to resolve the interference angle caused by the perch being off angle. It is sitting almost 2 degrees out before cutting the I brackets down and will bind the shackles is I don't get it to the same plane as the wishbone eyes. That was why I am going to make the angled wedge on the bottom of the perch and angled plate for the top in the opposite direction which will rotate the spring to the proper angle. So you think seven degrees is good? I read RPMs post some where said 5 degrees. I was shooting for 5 to six. Played with the shim a bit today and 5/16 only makes about 2 tenths difference and raising the frame 1/2 inch only 4 tenths reduction. Adding 1/4 inch of rod end length reduced angle about 3 tenths. so without taking more off the brackets there is not much to gain and the brackets are getting close without having the rubber boot up in the weld area, which would not hurt anything but not what I really want. If you think 7 is good it's going on as is because it is a dead 7 pretty much no matter what I do short of cutting an 1/8 inch more off the bracket. Which would probably bring it to near 6. I tried to calculate exactly what 1/8 would do with math and had to give up on that one. lol Too many other things to factor in with it. Thanks Jeff

 

[2old2fast]

I,m not sure what you mean about the spring mount ???? 7 should be o.k. there are others here that could chime in ??????
Dave

 

[Jeff]

Spring perch is sitting at 1.9 degrees is the reason for the shims. It was welded solid by previous owner so I am not going to change it just shim it and run it. It should be the same as the axle 7 degrees which means I need a 5 degree shim on the top and bottom to roll the spring to the proper position and keep the bolts the same at 7 degrees. That is what I was trying to say. If they are different there will be an interference angle at the shackles the spring eye at 2 degrees and the bones eye at 7 degrees that would not move freely up and down. I got the bottom shim from posies today and for got to take it with me to see about milling off. Oh well got plenty to do. I got the track bar cut down and can work at fitting it in and got a drive shaft loop cross member to think about modding, it's a bit on the big and tall side and too wide to boot but I expected that just needed the material anyway. Thanks Dave for all the opinions you have been a big help.

 

[RPM]

@Jeff since you are using spring pivots, your perch is just fine.

 

[Larry]

see where your spring perch is square right behind the springs? That really needs to be rounded. Square corners will usually crack right in the corner

 

[Jeff]

Glad to find the site again. Thanks Ron. Here are a few photos of the the progress so far So close I can drive it so far away it wont move yet. Eventualy shooting for may but don't think I can make it. Ordered a tank today. don't know whose body this is but only has about a 12 inch box. Thanks all. Glad to be back.

 

[choppedtop]

Good to see your back and still making progress. Stay after it, you still have two months before May.
Lee

 

[RPM]

Glad you found us again