jim shepard
New Member
check those wheel lugs and make sure wheel is seated flat
Dreaded death wobble has returned... AAARRRGGGHHH!
- Thread starter Lee_in_KC
- Start date
"The Bat" out of hell
Member
Some extra tech;
You've gotten some good info already and fixing caster is great. One thing handy to check also is tire run-out ,not just balance. Another is car balance by 4 corners[all tires a rite PSI and on level ground] ,this is done by having some one about your size set in driver set,and jack up rear end housing dead center between tires with a point on jack,just tell both rear wheels can see light under=one maybe a lot higher off the road then the other/if so you need to adjust springs tell you can jack it up this way tell there close to same,[close is about not more then 3in. apart,closer is better.
If you drive with some one with you most of the time,then use two in car.
One extra note on wheel balance,if done on the car,you must normely mark lug to rim so if you take a rim off it goes back in same place.
Some times the rotors are out of balance and need doing by there self,but balancing on the car covers it up as long as you naver move to def lug with rim.
Tires can and will go bad with out it showing just by looking at it,the inter casing can start to come apart from heat,age,or a pot hole,that tire was fine,then one day it's not,but don't show it with out a run out check.
You've gotten some good info already and fixing caster is great. One thing handy to check also is tire run-out ,not just balance. Another is car balance by 4 corners[all tires a rite PSI and on level ground] ,this is done by having some one about your size set in driver set,and jack up rear end housing dead center between tires with a point on jack,just tell both rear wheels can see light under=one maybe a lot higher off the road then the other/if so you need to adjust springs tell you can jack it up this way tell there close to same,[close is about not more then 3in. apart,closer is better.
If you drive with some one with you most of the time,then use two in car.
One extra note on wheel balance,if done on the car,you must normely mark lug to rim so if you take a rim off it goes back in same place.
Some times the rotors are out of balance and need doing by there self,but balancing on the car covers it up as long as you naver move to def lug with rim.
Tires can and will go bad with out it showing just by looking at it,the inter casing can start to come apart from heat,age,or a pot hole,that tire was fine,then one day it's not,but don't show it with out a run out check.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Ted Brown said:Boy I would be in trouble if I took out all my jacked in weight, no more straight launches.. hehe Ride safe
Yea Ted........uh......your a pro! Your da man! Your the Mr.Big of Straight line launchings!!!!!!!
I just make it go like a batouttahell from start to finish :hijacked:Thats what I specialize in.........I'm gonna need ya'lls help when I get this thing up on all 4's........its gonna be extremely frontheavy with the 392 Hemi.......its all cast......If, If i can do some horse tradin'.......I might have a set of aluminums.....the guys asking for a lot of work in return.....if I slow up, I'll get them.........I enjoy sitting in the bleachers, drinking a big glass of cold tea and listening to the pro's doin' ya'lls stuff!!!!!
-----Emergency! Fridge Time!:flip:
"The Bat" out of hell
Member
A racing at the drags set up,as Ted is refering to,is not best set up for driving around every day , I was saying how to do every day set up. On the other hand if you never ever drive in the rain at all,plus come off every stop like a race,then pre load [cross wedge]for straight power on launches is fine. Just to clairafiy
Ted Brown
Member
That is how much weight is on the front and rear tires just sitting still, not even running.. I ran my T Bucket set up to run straight and no wheel stands flat foot out of the gate, everyday for close to 20 years, no problems the way I have it set, rain or shine, my baby is as straight as an arrow... Ride safe
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Yea Ted....Iunderstand.....I have 4 of the wheel scales so what I'll do is load the drivers seat with static weight....same as me.....then I can see how much I got sitting on the front and rears and adjust everything accordingly..........I'm gonna go write this down before I forget it.......you can bet I'll be giving a yell back.................
Rooster.......I don't mind unleashing several thousand horses.........1. as long as I can see over the hood, 2. as long as the tiresmoke don't block my view of the road, 3. as long as I can get out of it in about 100 ft.!!!!! Hee-Hee.............everyone knocks me all the time cause I drive so slow................
Rooster......one thing.........does your feathers really get all ruffled going down the roadin your bucket?????? Heeeeee!!!!!!:scream:
Rooster.......I don't mind unleashing several thousand horses.........1. as long as I can see over the hood, 2. as long as the tiresmoke don't block my view of the road, 3. as long as I can get out of it in about 100 ft.!!!!! Hee-Hee.............everyone knocks me all the time cause I drive so slow................
Rooster......one thing.........does your feathers really get all ruffled going down the roadin your bucket?????? Heeeeee!!!!!!:scream:
Screaming Metal
Active Member
rooster57 said:
I can see you going across Tulsa and the gals in one of those small Mustangs trying to catch ya................
Ted Brown
Member
This is for regular guys out there in Bucket land that do not have chassis scales.. no real need for them... All you care about is the end result, if car balances at the 65% point (back) point of your wheelbase...
How do you do this? Jack up the front just high enough so that the wheels will not touch the floor when totally in a hanging position, do the same for the rear end.. Now mark your frame at the 65% point, put stands under that point (one on each side of the frame) now slowly let the rear end down to the hanging point, and put stands back under the housing for safety, do the same in the front... You can tell at this point if you are way off the balance point, add your body weight to the seat, borrow a friends lifting weights for this, or any weight that you know just how much it weighs.. if things are still front heavy, as I would bet they are, you must add weight as far back as possible, and or take some off the front and move to the rear...
Think about this, if we can do this with an AG/S car, with only a 10% engine setback, you can do it with a T Bucket with more than 30% most of the time.. the one big difference is the fact that a T does not have that handy OVERHANG and a bumper back a ways from the rear axle line, easier to add weight back there, way more leverage, takes much less weight...
Anyway, I think you get my drift, as far as scales go, the correct balancing act is what matters. no matter what the car weighs... Remember this is for a real sticky launch, and you now must have real strong lift bars (radius rods, a 4 bar setup will not help traction like a lift rod) with a lift type rod, when on the load pedal hard, you are OFF the springs completely, all the body weight is held up by these rods, so keep them and all mounting brackets strong, plus, if you use a thin housing. like Chevy's can be, a totally rapped bracket is needed at the rear housing mount.. (completely around the housing, stagger welded is best) Boy, this is off the main subject a ways.
How do you do this? Jack up the front just high enough so that the wheels will not touch the floor when totally in a hanging position, do the same for the rear end.. Now mark your frame at the 65% point, put stands under that point (one on each side of the frame) now slowly let the rear end down to the hanging point, and put stands back under the housing for safety, do the same in the front... You can tell at this point if you are way off the balance point, add your body weight to the seat, borrow a friends lifting weights for this, or any weight that you know just how much it weighs.. if things are still front heavy, as I would bet they are, you must add weight as far back as possible, and or take some off the front and move to the rear...
Think about this, if we can do this with an AG/S car, with only a 10% engine setback, you can do it with a T Bucket with more than 30% most of the time.. the one big difference is the fact that a T does not have that handy OVERHANG and a bumper back a ways from the rear axle line, easier to add weight back there, way more leverage, takes much less weight...
Anyway, I think you get my drift, as far as scales go, the correct balancing act is what matters. no matter what the car weighs... Remember this is for a real sticky launch, and you now must have real strong lift bars (radius rods, a 4 bar setup will not help traction like a lift rod) with a lift type rod, when on the load pedal hard, you are OFF the springs completely, all the body weight is held up by these rods, so keep them and all mounting brackets strong, plus, if you use a thin housing. like Chevy's can be, a totally rapped bracket is needed at the rear housing mount.. (completely around the housing, stagger welded is best) Boy, this is off the main subject a ways.
That's some good scoop there Ted, and you're right...we went from death wobble to a balancing act to almost a little weight transfer. HAHA But all of the info is great. This is really helping me a lot. I started messing with cars about 17 years ago, but then half assed quit for a few years and now I'm back with a lot more detail. All these posts remind me of what I don't know. The best part is that I'm learning quickly. There is something to be said for sharing information!
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Ted Brown said:This is for regular guys out there in Bucket land that do not have chassis scales.. no real need for them... All you care about is the end result, if car balances at the 65% point (back) point of your wheelbase...
How do you do this? Jack up the front just high enough so that the wheels will not touch the floor when totally in a hanging position, do the same for the rear end.. Now mark your frame at the 65% point, put stands under that point (one on each side of the frame) now slowly let the rear end down to the hanging point, and put stands back under the housing for safety, do the same in the front... You can tell at this point if you are way off the balance point, add your body weight to the seat, borrow a friends lifting weights for this, or any weight that you know just how much it weighs.. if things are still front heavy, as I would bet they are, you must add weight as far back as possible, and or take some off the front and move to the rear...
Think about this, if we can do this with an AG/S car, with only a 10% engine setback, you can do it with a T Bucket with more than 30% most of the time.. the one big difference is the fact that a T does not have that handy OVERHANG and a bumper back a ways from the rear axle line, easier to add weight back there, way more leverage, takes much less weight...
Anyway, I think you get my drift, as far as scales go, the correct balancing act is what matters. no matter what the car weighs... Remember this is for a real sticky launch, and you now must have real strong lift bars (radius rods, a 4 bar setup will not help traction like a lift rod) with a lift type rod, when on the load pedal hard, you are OFF the springs completely, all the body weight is held up by these rods, so keep them and all mounting brackets strong, plus, if you use a thin housing. like Chevy's can be, a totally rapped bracket is needed at the rear housing mount.. (completely around the housing, stagger welded is best) Boy, this is off the main subject a ways.
Yea Ted......great info there!!!!!
Screaming Metal
Active Member
I had figured that I'd probably have to do something like that......thats why I set off on the sidelines and keep my flap shut learning..........HeeHee.............
On my chassis........at the rear bar.....since I'm gonna run a short bed with a cover over it.......I was gonna TIG 3 pieces of internally tapped pipe to the bar.....one on each side and one in the center.......so I can add weights back there. OR....do you think all I need is just a sand box????
That blown chevysmallblock is alot lighter than that 392 Hemi! Just the Hemi Heads are about 100 lbs. each!!!!! Ha! Thanks for your guidance there Ted.....................Hey Rooster.....didn't you call him Papaw Teddy??????..........................Respect, now Respect......haha....
On my chassis........at the rear bar.....since I'm gonna run a short bed with a cover over it.......I was gonna TIG 3 pieces of internally tapped pipe to the bar.....one on each side and one in the center.......so I can add weights back there. OR....do you think all I need is just a sand box????
That blown chevysmallblock is alot lighter than that 392 Hemi! Just the Hemi Heads are about 100 lbs. each!!!!! Ha! Thanks for your guidance there Ted.....................Hey Rooster.....didn't you call him Papaw Teddy??????..........................Respect, now Respect......haha....
