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Engine bogs when floored

I do not know about removing the tank? Do you fear it contains ethanol/water solids? Look into VP or Sunoco canned gasolines.
They have non ethanol with a extended shelf life, 100% gasoline with any octane you want. I try to put canned gasoline in most of my small engines and toys, when they are subject to sitting for more than 2 or 3 months.
 
Go to a place that supplies boats. The stuff you can pour in the gas that will remove the bad stuff like Ethanol. It's a small bottle for about $10, but an ounce or two is all you'll need for your size tank. It's called Startron. I used it in my old T, just on principle.

Starbrite Star-Tron Fuel Treatment
 
I use Star-Tron every time I fill up (about 1-2 oz), one bottle goes a long way, I buy it at Home Depot in the lawn mower section for about $8 per bottle.
 
I use Star-Tron every time I fill up (about 1-2 oz), one bottle goes a long way, I buy it at Home Depot in the lawn mower section for about $8 per bottle.
Does it remove ethanol? I looked into methods to do it, it's not difficult. Turns out you simply mix water with the fuel. Since ethanol bonds to the water, hence why it causes problems, it can be drained or removed from the gasoline with the water. Water is heavier than gasoline, so it settles to the bottom and is simple to remove. The issue is ethanol adds octane, so after removing it, octane booster should be added. I'm going to try it on my power tools... well, that's the plan, lol. I used to always advocate storing with full tanks to prevent moisture from condensation and less air helped preserve the fuel, but ethanol has thrown a wrench in the works. Storing dry can allow seals, pumps, etc, to dry out, ethanol absorbs water and is corrosive, so it's a catch 22.
 
Does it remove ethanol? I looked into methods to do it, it's not difficult. Turns out you simply mix water with the fuel. Since ethanol bonds to the water, hence why it causes problems, it can be drained or removed from the gasoline with the water. Water is heavier than gasoline, so it settles to the bottom and is simple to remove. The issue is ethanol adds octane, so after removing it, octane booster should be added. I'm going to try it on my power tools... well, that's the plan, lol. I used to always advocate storing with full tanks to prevent moisture from condensation and less air helped preserve the fuel, but ethanol has thrown a wrench in the works. Storing dry can allow seals, pumps, etc, to dry out, ethanol absorbs water and is corrosive, so it's a catch 22.
I just read and watched some info on star bright, startron, and it doesn't remove water or ethanol, but is supposed to break it down and allow it to be combusted. It claims to prevent it from separating and settling. It sounds interesting. I personally would prefer to start with none of the bad stuff in the fuel and add this stuff to prevent it from getting there. Who knows? Anymore, the oil isn't any good, the fuel isn't any good, we need additives for everything. The term planned obsolescence comes to mind.
 
I have used Startron, Stabil, and Seafoam, they are all hit or miss on ethanol, if you store it. If you drive it and keep the gas replenished it is not an issue. I put in the additives on the less used engines and straight gasoline in anything that sits. I still have an ATV, the carb is going to have to come off, must have fudged on ethanol.
 
I have used Startron, Stabil, and Seafoam, they are all hit or miss on ethanol, if you store it. If you drive it and keep the gas replenished it is not an issue. I put in the additives on the less used engines and straight gasoline in anything that sits. I still have an ATV, the carb is going to have to come off, must have fudged on ethanol.

The thing is, in places like Houston, there is NO straight gas. Yea, you can get race gas, but the price is stupid per gallon.
 
I'm pulling the body off the frame to do the body work and paint. Removing the tank, battery and vac pump will make it earier to lift off.
 
Yea, I've got that. Thanks. They sell race gas. NOT affordable for the average consumer.
I also checked and it's about double the price at the marina or small airstrips around here. So let's say $20 or so for a five gallon can...sort of like buying diesel, maybe for the power tools, bike, final fill on the cars, etc... cheaper than a carb and fuel pump rebuild in the spring, but other than being expensive, it's not exactly convenient. I live close to several marinas, but they aren't in my normal paths. That's why I looked into removing ethanol from pump gas. I actually have a extra fuel storage tank that holds 275 gal. I considered having some fuel delivered, like 100 gal, and doing the ethanol removal method, add some octane boost to it and just use it for my bikes, old cars, and power tools. I need to experiment first. If I only had the energy I once had...
 
I have used Startron, Stabil, and Seafoam, they are all hit or miss on ethanol, if you store it. If you drive it and keep the gas replenished it is not an issue. I put in the additives on the less used engines and straight gasoline in anything that sits. I still have an ATV, the carb is going to have to come off, must have fudged on ethanol.
The ethanol will burn ok if, like you say, you run them and refresh it, but I've had several issues with fuel lines, sending units, regulators, electric fuel pumps, as well as accelerator pumps, floats, and carb issues that I strongly feel were directly related to the ethanol, either from it being corrosive or the moisture content, or whatever. On different vehicles, some intended to burn it, some not. It's causes corrosion on anything but plastic and stainless, from my experience. Even the rubber o rings, etc get damaged. Ive noticed that the newer vehicles have most of the fuel related components constructed from plastic or composit material, even the fuel lines are vinyl. So it's another of our maintenance headaches to contend with....and complain about, lol.
 

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