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Engine cooling problem solved ?

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Robert

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350 Chevy with twin Edlebrock 4 barrels in my bucket.

100F and 104F afternoons here in Texas.

Has been running hot ever since I bought it.

I tried:

1) Custom aluminum shroud around largest CFM electric fan to increase air flow.

2) Clean out 4 core radiator that was already clean.

3) New high volume water pump.

4) New 180F thermostat with a couple of drilled 1/8th inch holes.

5) Redline coolant additive.

6)Removing tranny hoses from radiator and plumbing to a separate tranny cooler

7) Removing both radiator hoses to check for internal crushes.

Nothing made a big difference - - until I ran across a recommendation from a master race car mechanic to drill out 4 spaced holes in a 160 F thermostat (.200 each hole, I believe that is a 13/64th's drill bit).

Finally I started seeing a bit of drop in temps.

But I added a 5th and 6th hole lately, and that really did the trick, now running under 220 F absolute, many times around 180F.

Warm up time not that much longer either.

Apparently the thermostat is the big restriction in most engines, some guys pull the thermostat totally and install just a flow reducer.

In the fall and winter I will drop back down to thermostat with less drilled holes.
 
350 Chevy with twin Edlebrock 4 barrels in my bucket.

100F and 104F afternoons here in Texas.

Has been running hot ever since I bought it.

I tried:

1) Custom aluminum shroud around largest CFM electric fan to increase air flow.

2) Clean out 4 core radiator that was already clean.

3) New high volume water pump.

4) New 180F thermostat with a couple of drilled 1/8th inch holes.

5) Redline coolant additive.

6)Removing tranny hoses from radiator and plumbing to a separate tranny cooler

7) Removing both radiator hoses to check for internal crushes.

Nothing made a big difference - - until I ran across a recommendation from a master race car mechanic to drill out 4 spaced holes in a 160 F thermostat (.200 each hole, I believe that is a 13/64th's drill bit).

Finally I started seeing a bit of drop in temps.

But I added a 5th and 6th hole lately, and that really did the trick, now running under 220 F absolute, many times around 180F.

Warm up time not that much longer either.

Apparently the thermostat is the big restriction in most engines, some guys pull the thermostat totally and install just a flow reducer.

In the fall and winter I will drop back down to thermostat with less drilled holes.
I will start by saying I am NOT recommending this for a street driven car, but in my circle track days we replaced the thermostat with home made flat washers. We would keep a dozen or so with different sized holes drilled in them. Some had single holes and others multiple holes. After a while we learned which ones to use according to the temperature that day, or what track we were running. We just had to find the exact right amount of flow to optimize cooling for the conditions at hand. Hope you found the trick you needed! Good luck. :thumbsup:
 
Did you ever verify the temp gauge was correct?

Is that temp running temp or sitting at a light temp?

Will take those 2 readings with infra red laser thermometer and post them when I ride again.

I generally get hottest readings after a few accelerations . . .
 
If drilling holes in the thermostat housing lets it run cooler it sounds like your thermostat is not opening all the way or it's hanging up
take it out and put it in a pan of water on the stove and warm it up watching carefully I believe water boils at 210 if it's not fully open it is a definite problem with the thermostat.

bob
 
350 Chevy with twin Edlebrock 4 barrels in my bucket.

100F and 104F afternoons here in Texas.

Has been running hot ever since I bought it.

I tried:

1) Custom aluminum shroud around largest CFM electric fan to increase air flow.

2) Clean out 4 core radiator that was already clean.

3) New high volume water pump.

4) New 180F thermostat with a couple of drilled 1/8th inch holes.

5) Redline coolant additive.

6)Removing tranny hoses from radiator and plumbing to a separate tranny cooler

7) Removing both radiator hoses to check for internal crushes.

Nothing made a big difference - - until I ran across a recommendation from a master race car mechanic to drill out 4 spaced holes in a 160 F thermostat (.200 each hole, I believe that is a 13/64th's drill bit).

Finally I started seeing a bit of drop in temps.

But I added a 5th and 6th hole lately, and that really did the trick, now running under 220 F absolute, many times around 180F.

Warm up time not that much longer either.

Apparently the thermostat is the big restriction in most engines, some guys pull the thermostat totally and install just a flow reducer.

In the fall and winter I will drop back down to thermostat with less drilled holes.

OK, you know you have a vacuum leak toward the base of one of your carbs, Have you fixed that?
By drilling the extra holes, your letting coolant 'seep' past the thermo and that in turn adds a little extra escape for the extra hot fluids down on your waterjacket.
You are bandaging the problem, not curing it. You still have a problem somewhere. Even a extremely healthy, dual carbed hotrod motor could and should run 160-180 all day long....in stop and go traffic maybe creep up to 200, maybe 205.
Is your timing correct? Is your TDC marker correct? Have you fixed the Vacuum leak? Are you running too lean? Are you running the correct range of spark plugs? Is combustion gasses getting into the cooling system, ie, head gasket sealing problem? Have you run a compression check? All these things will give you some valuable info....you have a mystery, search for the answers, they are there, just gotta know what to look for....

As for drilling the holes....in some of the race cars, we just core the thermo out, just using the housing that would allow some backpressure to the pump. Have you checked you coolant system buildup pressure? Have you let the thermo open while peering into the radiator neck to verify that the coolant IS moving at a brisk Rate?
As you can see....there are still alot of unanswered questions....Did you even answer all our questions?
Remember all the stuff we were asking in the OTHER Post????????? I ain't got time for this....I gotta go build A RACE MOTOR....
 
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If drilling holes in the thermostat housing lets it run cooler it sounds like your thermostat is not opening all the way or it's hanging up
take it out and put it in a pan of water on the stove and warm it up watching carefully I believe water boils at 210 if it's not fully open it is a definite problem with the thermostat.

bob


Nope, always same overheating problem but with 3 thermostats (2 were new ones)
 
OK, you know you have a vacuum leak toward the base of one of your carbs, Have you fixed that?
By drilling the extra holes, your letting coolant 'seep' past the thermo and that in turn adds a little extra escape for the extra hot fluids down on your waterjacket.
You are bandaging the problem, not curing it. You still have a problem somewhere. Even a extremely healthy, dual carbed hotrod motor could and should run 160-180 all day long....in stop and go traffic maybe creep up to 200, maybe 205.
Is your timing correct? Is your TDC marker correct? Have you fixed the Vacuum leak? Are you running too lean? Are you running the correct range of spark plugs? Is combustion gasses getting into the cooling system, ie, head gasket sealing problem? Have you run a compression check? All these things will give you some valuable info....you have a mystery, search for the answers, they are there, just gotta know what to look for....

As for drilling the holes....in some of the race cars, we just core the thermo out, just using the housing that would allow some backpressure to the pump. Have you checked you coolant system buildup pressure? Have you let the thermo open while peering into the radiator neck to verify that the coolant IS moving at a brisk Rate?
As you can see....there are still alot of unanswered questions....Did you even answer all our questions?
Remember all the stuff we were asking in the OTHER Post????????? I ain't got time for this....I gotta go build A RACE MOTOR....


Yeah, that is a helluva a lot of stuff that only a guy who is retired or builds motors exclusively could answer/do in a fortnight.

I believe timing is correct, now running 8 BTDC.

Still need to run a full compression check.

True, I <may> still have a vaccum leak in between the carbs - - and no, I only got so much time in a day as I still work for a living..
 
WARNING - if you are squeamish in the least, avoid this post, because it is not going to be pretty, nor is it going to be delicate.

OK, you know you have a vacuum leak toward the base of one of your carbs, Have you fixed that?
Which would cause excessive heat 'after a few accelerations', wouldn't it? :) SM, are you aware we've been asking about this known vacuum leak for almost 90 days, yet Robert is still dancing his wee dance?
You are bandaging the problem, not curing it.
DING, DING, DING! Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner!! :thumbsup: But, but, wait. He did say that 'cure' came from a 'master race car mechanic', didn't he? You're not actually suggesting that 'master race car mechanic' might equate to jackleg, are you? Oh. Wait. That was me making that suggestion, wasn't it?
You still have a problem somewhere.
<GASP> You mean crutching a thermostat with a bunch of holes didn't really fix anything? :eek: You mean, <SPUTTER>, the problem still exists?
Even a extremely healthy, dual carbed hotrod motor could and should run 160-180 all day long....in stop and go traffic maybe creep up to 200, maybe 205.
Could, should, or the one that really cuts to the chase and stings the most - would.
Is your timing correct? Is your TDC marker correct? Have you fixed the Vacuum leak? Are you running too lean? Are you running the correct range of spark plugs? Is combustion gasses getting into the cooling system, ie, head gasket sealing problem? Have you run a compression check? All these things will give you some valuable info....you have a mystery, search for the answers, they are there, just gotta know what to look for....
Why bother with all of that stuff, when the problem gets <COUGH> 'fixed' with a hacked thermostat? And you know, you are wasting your time and a lot of ones and zeroes, by asking all those questions, because Robert has left a trail of unanswered questions (most of them being the same ones you just asked), over the last 3 months.

What most people will not stop to consider is when a racer uses water restricters, rather than thermostats, as @baddawgcustoms mentioned, that is done to eliminate the possibility of a stuck thermostat getting between the race car and a possible winner's circle. Who runs fuses on a race car? But would you run a street car without the protection of fuses? Who runs a fuel filter on a race car? But would you run a street car without the protection of a fuel filter? Sure, there are tons of places where race technology can be applied to a street driver, but crutching an overheating problem with a butchered thermostat just isn't one of those places.

...and no, I only got so much time in a day as I still work for a living..

Hold the farging phone! Time to make sure everybody sees this horse exhaust for exactly what it is.

Sorry, @Robert, I hear what you're saying about having to work for a living and your time being short, but here's the reality of the matter. Your known vacuum leak is likely the cause of your overheating, but it could also be causing myriad, other problems, as well. But you don't have time to investigate that possibility, aye? Yet you do have time to change thermostats twice, then pull the third thermostat to drill some holes in it, then pull the third thermostat a second time, to drill even more holes in it? o_O Nope, you don't have time to fix a problem that is right in front of you, but you have time to post here about everything, which doesn't mention that you also had time to engage a 'master race car mechanic' with the same issues? Did you bother to mention your possible vacuum leak to this 'master race car mechanic'? My money is all going on No, because if you had mentioned it, any mechanic in the world, 'master race car mechanic' or not, would have immediately had visions of burning valves and lifting ring lands in his mind, rather than hacking up a thermostat.

So tell me - you have had all this time to do all these things, but you do not have time to actually eliminate a glaring problem. Does that mean you will also have time to rebuild that engine, if it does lift a ring land, if it does burn a piston, if it does burn a valve? Because if that engine were properly tuned, had a high-flow water pump, a clean four-core radiator, the addition of water wetter, and a properly designed shroud around an adequate electric fan, you wouldn't be having any over-heating problems.

You're about to get all riled up at me, because I am going to say what everyone else has been thinking, all along. Fix your known problems, before you start any more threads and before you hang any more band-aids on anything. Remember, band-aids don't fix anything, they only cover up the cuts and scrapes. You started this thread, over 90 days ago. A total of 66 posts later, and you were still dancing around the questions people were putting to you. Instead of remaining involved in that thread, you started this thread, some three weeks later. Within a few hours, @TriodeLuvr rightfully pointed out there were unanswered questions in your first thread. Eight days later, you were back with this thread, which you also abandoned after 30 posts, leaving even more unanswered questions. Six days later, you then had to start this thread. Followed, just four days later, with this thread. Two days after that, here you came with this thread, where you ignored questions that were put to you, yet again. That same day, you started this thread, because your knickers were knotted over getting called out for a rules violation. Nearly one month later, here you came again, with this thread. And now, here you are, back again, with the same-old, same-old. We're approaching a total of ten threads, all addressing the same problem you identified almost 3 months ago. WTF?!? Then you have the sand to suggest you don't have time to do the things people have asked you to do, so we could all diagnose your problem?

Most of the rest of us work for a living, but isn't it interesting how you keep coming to us, to have us try to divine your problems for you? Everyone else seems to be missing this finer point, but I caught onto your game within your first handful of posts. Your time is valuable, too damn valuable to spend fixing your own stuff, but it is perfectly acceptable for you to waste our time??? You can't be bothered to use a bit of common sense, but you can bleed off our free time? You can spend time picking everyone's brain, but you don't have time to answer questions asking for more details. WTF makes your time any more valuable than anyone else's time?

You, sir, have become a Help Vampire. You are sucking help from the kind-hearted members of this forum, who have tried, time and again, to help you with your problem. But instead of listening to what people are asking and then providing complete answers to those questions, you simply ignore the help you've been provided and run off to start another thread, to suck more help. And you know what? That ends, right here and right now.

Get your own ducks in a row. Search the site for answers, before you ask any more questions. If you cannot add enough details to allow others to fully understand your problem, then don't ask the questions, because we all know you are never going to come back and provide any requested details. Do not offend our intelligence by suggesting you do not have time to research your own problems, when a blind man can clearly see you've spun your wheels for over 90 days. If you can't be bothered to diagnose anything, then stop assuming we have the time to hold your hand. If someone asks you for more details, get busy providing those details, because none of us here can read minds.

If you cannot follow these instructions, then you are clearly in the wrong place. Which is as politely as I can think to say that either you tune up your act, or you are going to find yourself out in the alley. Understood? You've worn out my patience with this ongoing nonsense, and in the so-doing, you've worn out your own welcome. Get yourself in order, before you post anything to this site again, or I will toss you out before you know it. Doubt what I am saying? Then go right ahead and push that line. You are at the end of the line, so choose your way forward, very, very carefully.

If you want to waste someone's time with this B.S. of yours, then waste your master race car mechanic's time. If you want some real help, then drag your sorry backside back into those other threads and start answering the questions people have put to you. And then try showing a tiny bit of flippin' gratitude for those same people taking the time to deal with the things you have no time to deal with on your own.

As for myself, I am off to the library, to learn what qualifications are necessary to become a 'master race car mechanic'. :rolleyes: Screw me to tears, that one may not be the wildest one I've ever heard, but it certainly ranks right up there.
 
Halfway through post #10 I had to scroll up to see of Robert had been banned yet because I could see where this was going. lol
No, I'm not ready to ban him, at least not quite yet. He still needs posting privileges to thank all the members of this site who took time from their otherwise busy days to try to help his sorry backside.

But once he's demonstrated his gratitude, he may not be around much longer.

EDIT - I just took a quick look through Robert's post history and I found 55 posts. He never bothered to introduce himself in the Introductions forum. One post was wrongly posted to the Engine & Drivelines forum, which I moved to the Lounge. One post was made as an observation in the Suspension forum. The other 53 posts he has made have been to ask for help fixing his ride. See what I mean when I say he is a help vampire? Fewer than 4% of his total posts have been anything other than him asking for help. He's not here to be an active part of our community, he is here to wear down those who fail to see him for what he really is, and are willing to try to offer him help.
 
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Ladies and gentlemen, Robert has been ejected, as per his request.

For those that saw his parting shot, the poor child was obviously not aware that I am quite happily unmarried. So much for little barbs coming from little people.

This thread is closed.
 
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