Exhaust Baffles
- Thread starter railroad
- Start date
I cannot get the baffles to come up on a search, but they have a vortex cone, full of holes. I'll get my catalog and see if I can get a part number. I have no idea of what to expect on the sound change. It is just too loud with open headers and side pipes.
thanks,
thanks,
The vortec cones are $70 each. That's a little steep for not knowing what they will sound like and what other options are out there. I think I could make something, but I would have to buy the metal, or go by a muffler shop.
I am doing a search, which I should have done first. I have found the baffles are too quiet, the vortec maybe too pricey, the spin techs look like something from Gander Mtn, some of the home mades look pretty good, but I do not want to do that much work and it not be in stainless. I am on a search and still accepting advise and suggestions.
I am doing a search, which I should have done first. I have found the baffles are too quiet, the vortec maybe too pricey, the spin techs look like something from Gander Mtn, some of the home mades look pretty good, but I do not want to do that much work and it not be in stainless. I am on a search and still accepting advise and suggestions.
Here are two links that might help you get some ideas for your DIY design:
Tech: Easy Header Baffles - THE H.A.M.B.
BAFFLES FOR LAKE STYLE HEADERS
Tech: Easy Header Baffles - THE H.A.M.B.
BAFFLES FOR LAKE STYLE HEADERS
Keeper
Active Member
I had not seen that one Rex.
Here is one that DonsRods posted:
http://www.tbucketeers.com/forum/f9/header-inserts-2392/
should give you some ideas at least
Here is one that DonsRods posted:
http://www.tbucketeers.com/forum/f9/header-inserts-2392/
should give you some ideas at least
spike
New Member
Railroad,
I have the speedway headers on my car. I installed their baffles after having the same problem you are having. The car sounds great. Keep in mind whenever purchasing from Speedway that the Item will have to be modified as most of their stuff comes from China, is poor quality & usually is not as advertised. I have the following: "Headers" - had to return the first set as their catalog had a chart that was printed wrong. "baffles" - would not fit into their headers - had to take to work and turn the flanges .060" undersize. "manual windshield wiper & mounting bracket" - cannot move the wiper as the handle will not clear the bracket - could not fix. "functional windshield hinges" - since both hinges are right hand they are only functional until you put them on the windshield, then they are non-functional. "Stewart Warner gage set" - assembled in Mexico, box contained oil pressure gage with needle laying in the bottom of the gage - do too time, neither stewart warner nor speedway would replace. "replacement brake pad" for my wilwood single piston caliper - mounting hole in pad not drilled deep enough & pad wore out within 100 miles causing the mounting screw to gouge my total performance rotor which speedway does not offer a replacement for at this time.
Good Luck,
Spike
I have the speedway headers on my car. I installed their baffles after having the same problem you are having. The car sounds great. Keep in mind whenever purchasing from Speedway that the Item will have to be modified as most of their stuff comes from China, is poor quality & usually is not as advertised. I have the following: "Headers" - had to return the first set as their catalog had a chart that was printed wrong. "baffles" - would not fit into their headers - had to take to work and turn the flanges .060" undersize. "manual windshield wiper & mounting bracket" - cannot move the wiper as the handle will not clear the bracket - could not fix. "functional windshield hinges" - since both hinges are right hand they are only functional until you put them on the windshield, then they are non-functional. "Stewart Warner gage set" - assembled in Mexico, box contained oil pressure gage with needle laying in the bottom of the gage - do too time, neither stewart warner nor speedway would replace. "replacement brake pad" for my wilwood single piston caliper - mounting hole in pad not drilled deep enough & pad wore out within 100 miles causing the mounting screw to gouge my total performance rotor which speedway does not offer a replacement for at this time.
Good Luck,
Spike
donsrods
Member
I made my own baffles for the Limefire headers on my T. I didn't know if they would do anything or not, but they really did drop the noise level a lot. Here is how I made them.
When the turnouts are in place you can't even see them....
My Son has Jayster headers on his RPU and they came with some baffles that look like a huge screw. They mute it somewhat:
Without baffles........
[ame=[media=youtube]eq2IHg-QE34[/media] - RPU fired up! 1 010[/ame]
With baffles...........
[ame=[media=youtube]6T_1ZUbRCGc[/media] - RPU fired up! 1 007[/ame]
I don't think he will have any problems with the cops.
Don
When the turnouts are in place you can't even see them....
My Son has Jayster headers on his RPU and they came with some baffles that look like a huge screw. They mute it somewhat:
Without baffles........
[ame=[media=youtube]eq2IHg-QE34[/media] - RPU fired up! 1 010[/ame]
With baffles...........
[ame=[media=youtube]6T_1ZUbRCGc[/media] - RPU fired up! 1 007[/ame]
I don't think he will have any problems with the cops.
Don
I actually got on the header insert thread and posted a , "thanks" for all the good advise, but I'll do it here also, since it has been a great help in making a choice.
Don, great sounding engine and I got a glimpes of the baffles on youtube.
The augers are my choice and they look easy to modify.
I have the hand windshield wiper from Speedway, but have not tried to install. I appreciate the heads up on some of their products. I guess the Chinese import stuff is like the Japan stuff was after the war.
I thought about wearing earplugs, but I think Mama will like the baffles better.
thanks again,
railroad
Don, great sounding engine and I got a glimpes of the baffles on youtube.
The augers are my choice and they look easy to modify.
I have the hand windshield wiper from Speedway, but have not tried to install. I appreciate the heads up on some of their products. I guess the Chinese import stuff is like the Japan stuff was after the war.
I thought about wearing earplugs, but I think Mama will like the baffles better.
thanks again,
railroad
Thanks BlownT. I ordered a set last nite. If they are too quiet, I can cut some V's in the augers, if too loud, I can put some stainless wool in the middle slot. I haven't decided how to attach them. They may be snug enough to stay in place and not rattle.
blownt
Member
I can guarantee they will NOT be too quiet. I had some Speedway fiberglass wrapped muffler inserts and they WERE too quiet (for me). I then went with the augers. They are louder but not alot louder. Although they are quite abit louder when you nail it. I think the augers are just about perfect sound in my opinion.
If you have turnouts the turn will keep them in. Be careful when trimming and not cut too much off. You want a fairly tight fit or they WILL rattle at times.
Since they do not make a 4" auger I bought another set of 3 1/2" and modified to fit inside my 4" Hookers and aftermarket turnouts. The Hooker 4" sidepipes weighted like 40 lbs apiece so did not use them. So I had a friend laser cut some spider jobbies to space the augers inside the 4" pipe.
If you have turnouts the turn will keep them in. Be careful when trimming and not cut too much off. You want a fairly tight fit or they WILL rattle at times.
Since they do not make a 4" auger I bought another set of 3 1/2" and modified to fit inside my 4" Hookers and aftermarket turnouts. The Hooker 4" sidepipes weighted like 40 lbs apiece so did not use them. So I had a friend laser cut some spider jobbies to space the augers inside the 4" pipe.
All good news to me. I was thinking about turning the split toward the bottom to allow condensation to get out asap. Sometimes I move the T to get to the lift and it never warms up. By the way Summit Racing has the augers, same price, free shipping. No big deal, but I forgot to check with them.
Put a new power valve in the Holley carb (1850 600 cfm) . Really cleaned up the idle and off idle response. I knew it was bad, but was able to adjust over it, until I got to it.
AND the augers are installed. I had to grind down the augers just a little to fit in the pipes. I think it is still a little LOUD. I ordered 2 packs of stainless steel wool from Summit.
I really felt like I got something accomplished today. I pulled the steering wheel and sanded it, for a coat of paint. It is a grant wheel and has just seen too many days.
I just ordered a couple of Edelbrock heads for a 302. I am going to replace the engine in the purple beast. I think the engine I have is a flat tappet truck engine, less than 200 hp. I have 2 mustang gt engines both running when pulled. They are 225 hp roller cam engines. I hope to swap most of the external stuff over from the roadster to the new engine.
Here's a good one, the dip stick on the engine is in the rear side of the block. The pan is a front sump. They cut the stick off where it go in, but not touch any oil, since it is in the front sump of the engine. I bought a new dip stick and was going to drill the timing cover, but I was going to wait until an oil change and pull the pan at the same time.
I have 2 Edelbrock intakes, an Airgap and RPM that will replace the Weiand, ( say why and ).
Now to the transmission. I has a B M, sounds like some initials my grandparents used to use, ratchet shifter. On a side note I called B&M to buy a pin and clip, they only sell the shifter handle and shift light. Everything else you have to send the shifter back to them and they will rebuild it for you. I acquired a Ford floor shifter, which I think will be a lot eaiser to use. The trans seems to be a Cruis O Matic. If you are not familar, it has D1, D2 and L. I put the ratchet shifter in what I thought was 2 to have some pep while crusing at low speeds and felt the trans shift to 3rd. The Cruis O in the 2nd position D2 would start in second and shift to 3rd. This is a trans from the late 50's. Fortunately I have a C-4 I am going to take a chance on.
I promise to take some pics so you guys can relate to all the stuff I am talking about.
I appreciate all the help. Oh yeah I have a red interior with a purple car, I cannot figure that one out.
railroad
AND the augers are installed. I had to grind down the augers just a little to fit in the pipes. I think it is still a little LOUD. I ordered 2 packs of stainless steel wool from Summit.
I really felt like I got something accomplished today. I pulled the steering wheel and sanded it, for a coat of paint. It is a grant wheel and has just seen too many days.
I just ordered a couple of Edelbrock heads for a 302. I am going to replace the engine in the purple beast. I think the engine I have is a flat tappet truck engine, less than 200 hp. I have 2 mustang gt engines both running when pulled. They are 225 hp roller cam engines. I hope to swap most of the external stuff over from the roadster to the new engine.
Here's a good one, the dip stick on the engine is in the rear side of the block. The pan is a front sump. They cut the stick off where it go in, but not touch any oil, since it is in the front sump of the engine. I bought a new dip stick and was going to drill the timing cover, but I was going to wait until an oil change and pull the pan at the same time.
I have 2 Edelbrock intakes, an Airgap and RPM that will replace the Weiand, ( say why and ).
Now to the transmission. I has a B M, sounds like some initials my grandparents used to use, ratchet shifter. On a side note I called B&M to buy a pin and clip, they only sell the shifter handle and shift light. Everything else you have to send the shifter back to them and they will rebuild it for you. I acquired a Ford floor shifter, which I think will be a lot eaiser to use. The trans seems to be a Cruis O Matic. If you are not familar, it has D1, D2 and L. I put the ratchet shifter in what I thought was 2 to have some pep while crusing at low speeds and felt the trans shift to 3rd. The Cruis O in the 2nd position D2 would start in second and shift to 3rd. This is a trans from the late 50's. Fortunately I have a C-4 I am going to take a chance on.
I promise to take some pics so you guys can relate to all the stuff I am talking about.
I appreciate all the help. Oh yeah I have a red interior with a purple car, I cannot figure that one out.
railroad
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