Fibreglass dash

[PeteT]

Not very much progress lately on my project, been too busy enjoying the weather and working. I have been trying to sort out a dash, I can't find anyone over here that makes a 23 dash so I thought I'd have a go at making one myself. I really wanted one that had a bit of depth to it so I decided to go for a fibreglass moulding. I made up a plug using mdf, plastic pipe and modelling clay, then produced a mould. I've knocked out a trial dash just to see what it looked like. It's not too bad (first attempt at fibreglass moulding), I think with a bit more care I should be able to get a resonable result (I plan on spraying it so I can fill the odd blemish).

What I'm struggling with is how to attach it to the body? Do I mould it direct to the body and then fill the gap, seems like a good idea but not sure about access for wiring the instruments?

Do I mould a flange to it and then bolt it, not sure about what to do about the gap between the dash and body?

Any thoughts about the best way to do this?

Here's the first attempt, I'm going to make the next one longer.

 

[EX JUNK]

You could glass it to the cowl quite easily and make it one with the body. If you do it in that manner, you will not have to worry about the gap that is visible in the second picture. Simply grind a relief area along the top of the cowl under the windshield mating area (oops, that is windscreen to you, I believe). This will allow a couple layers of mat to be laid with a couple more layers on the under side. This will make a very good bond.

With that fine looking tubing structure that you have installed you should hang your steering column from that. That way there is no added undo stress on the dash.

When it comes to wiring you should have little or no problems. I suggest that once you have the desired holes cut in the dash face that you start the wires for each gauge from the hole in the dash face and connect it to its desired sender terminal. Then cut the wires and install your connectors so that you are able to connect them to the gauge from the front of the dash. Then install the gauge and connect it to the dash from behind. The reason I suggest doing it this way is to limit the time and amount of work that you'll have to do laying on your back upside down working behind the dash.

Jim

 

[Francis Blake]

Pete the advise Jim is giving you is the way I would it most of the bodies made here are moulded with the dash in place. If you glass the dash in place it would add to the ridgedness of the bodie.

 

[Youngster]

I used to do the wiring like Jim suggested. Now I have a layout that I really like so I made a set-up dash. It's just a scrap piece of plywood with the guages layed out and fence staples to run the wires through. The 2 things l like about doin it this way is 1.) I can do the wiring on the bench and 2.) I can bundle the wires easier. I also run these wires to a disconnet under the seat.

I would glass the dash to the body also. Nice work by the way.

Ron

 

[EX JUNK]

Ron, that is the way I wired my car also. That way I was able to bundle all the wires very neatly. All my wires run perfectly parallel and do not cross one another in the bundles anywhere in the car. My distribution panel is mounted under the dash on a swing down panel and all out going wires are on plugs to facilitate the removal of the body.

The reason that I did not mention it in the above post was because a lot of guys think that I'm too fussy in my wiring and they like to do things quick and dirty. When it comes to wiring, I'm a real neat freak. Even my fellow electricians at GM for 30 years thought that I was nuts but I felt that the job has to please me along with making it work.

Jim

 

[PeteT]

Thanks for all the advice. That was my prefered option but I was a bit worried about wiring it up upside down!

I'm guessing it's best to cut the instrument holes before glassing it to the body, does that sound ok?

 

[HAceT]

You did a great job on making your own dash. Looks good. I like the shape.

 

[EX JUNK]

Pete, I think that either way would be about the same if you are using a powered hand drill. If you do it after it is mounted you don't have to hold the dash while drilling though.

Jim

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Not very much progress lately on my project, been too busy enjoying the weather and working. I have been trying to sort out a dash, I can't find anyone over here that makes a 23 dash so I thought I'd have a go at making one myself. I really wanted one that had a bit of depth to it so I decided to go for a fibreglass moulding. I made up a plug using mdf, plastic pipe and modelling clay, then produced a mould. I've knocked out a trial dash just to see what it looked like. It's not too bad (first attempt at fibreglass moulding), I think with a bit more care I should be able to get a resonable result (I plan on spraying it so I can fill the odd blemish).

What I'm struggling with is how to attach it to the body? Do I mould it direct to the body and then fill the gap, seems like a good idea but not sure about access for wiring the instruments?

Do I mould a flange to it and then bolt it, not sure about what to do about the gap between the dash and body?

Any thoughts about the best way to do this?

Here's the first attempt, I'm going to make the next one longer.

Good looking work so Pete T. I can tell you as a former fiberglass worker that you are on the right track, and the advice of the other folks are right on mate. (some family originally from London).

Realizing that most fiberglass end products of any size, or parabolic shapes are comprised of multiple components assembled together by glassing, you can simply utilize what you have already completed and glass the bottom with a couple of layers of 1.5 oz mat. For the top side where you have uneven gaps, you can use the same polyester resin mixed into a paste by adding cabosil powder (don't use plastic filler as it will shrink and eventually crack due to thickness when everything is all painted) :laff:. The cabosil mixture can be made as thick as you like (spackle consistancy) and it will not run, crack, or shrink. It is available from any good marine manufacturing supply.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask...

Keep up the good work.

 

[Youngster]

Jim, a a result of your fussiness you have one of the most outstanding cars on the site. Fussy is good!!

Ron

 

[EX JUNK]

Thank you that big compliment Ron. I really appreciate it.

Jim

 

[PeteT]

Good looking work so Pete T. I can tell you as a former fiberglass worker that you are on the right track, and the advice of the other folks are right on mate. (some family originally from London).

Realizing that most fiberglass end products of any size, or parabolic shapes are comprised of multiple components assembled together by glassing, you can simply utilize what you have already completed and glass the bottom with a couple of layers of 1.5 oz mat. For the top side where you have uneven gaps, you can use the same polyester resin mixed into a paste by adding cabosil powder (don't use plastic filler as it will shrink and eventually crack due to thickness when everything is all painted) . The cabosil mixture can be made as thick as you like (spackle consistancy) and it will not run, crack, or shrink. It is available from any good marine manufacturing supply.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask...

Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the info... Just looking at cabosil from my fibreglass supplier and they say it's won't mix very well unless a mechanical stirrer is used, do you think I'll get away with mixing by hand?

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Thanks for the info... Just looking at cabosil from my fibreglass supplier and they say it's won't mix very well unless a mechanical stirrer is used, do you think I'll get away with mixing by hand?

Absolutely, I always mix it by hand. It is very simple as follows: Mix your polyester resin (liquid) with the MEK hardener as usual, then you start adding the cabosil until you acheive the consistancy that you want. Actually, you cant put too much cabosil in so add enough until you have a nice paste that isnt runny. For your purposes, you will find that you want a consistancy thicker than peanut butter and closer to butter. As with your normal layups, mix only what you can use in about 7 - 8 minutes per batch. Also keep in mind that due to the thickenss the area will generate some heat so it is good to keep air circulating.

One last note of importance regarding the cabosil, when you open the container you will see that it is almost lighter than air and tends to become airborne so wear a dust mask..

Try a small amount and you will see what a pleasure it is to work with and how easily it smooths out. Oh, one last thing, if the cabosil mixture is going to be the final surface which will be sanded, as your supplier about adding a bit of styrene which makes the surface hard and eliminates gumminess.

Good luck

 

[all-world1]

Good looking work so Pete T. I can tell you as a former fiberglass worker that you are on the right track, and the advice of the other folks are right on mate. (some family originally from London).

Realizing that most fiberglass end products of any size, or parabolic shapes are comprised of multiple components assembled together by glassing, you can simply utilize what you have already completed and glass the bottom with a couple of layers of 1.5 oz mat. For the top side where you have uneven gaps, you can use the same polyester resin mixed into a paste by adding cabosil powder (don't use plastic filler as it will shrink and eventually crack due to thickness when everything is all painted) . The cabosil mixture can be made as thick as you like (spackle consistancy) and it will not run, crack, or shrink. It is available from any good marine manufacturing supply.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask...

Keep up the good work.

Can the cabosil powder be mixed into epoxy resin to attain the same results? If not, are there certain applications which you would only use polyester resin versus epoxy resin?

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Can the cabosil powder be mixed into epoxy resin to attain the same results? If not, are there certain applications which you would only use polyester resin versus epoxy resin?

Yes, cabosil can be mixed into epoxy as well as polyester, however, be aware that you can not intermingle the two products in finished form. By that I mean if you have a resin based fiberglass car for instance and need to do a repair or add a hood scoop as an example, you will need to stay with the polyester resin and not apply epoxy products over the polyester and vice versa.

Cabosil is a thickening agent that can be used in just about any product including paint believe or not . It is great to add to resin or epoxy to thicken the liquid especially on vertical surfaces. I was suggesting it for the fiberglass dash project to fill in some small voids after the two parts were joined by glassing from below.

I hope my long winded response helps...

 

[Youngster]

Thanks for the write up Mr. Fixit. I'll have to try that.

Ron

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Anytime Youngster, it is probably good to use in your ice cream if it is melting too..

 

[all-world1]

Yes, cabosil can be mixed into epoxy as well as polyester, however, be aware that you can not intermingle the two products in finished form. By that I mean if you have a resin based fiberglass car for instance and need to do a repair or add a hood scoop as an example, you will need to stay with the polyester resin and not apply epoxy products over the polyester and vice versa.

Cabosil is a thickening agent that can be used in just about any product including paint believe or not . It is great to add to resin or epoxy to thicken the liquid especially on vertical surfaces. I was suggesting it for the fiberglass dash project to fill in some small voids after the two parts were joined by glassing from below.

I hope my long winded response helps...

Yes, this is good to know and thanks for the explaination. Just one thing, does this mean that I need to know the composition of my body before picking a resin for the first time?

Hopefully Youngster can fill me in on what resin he uses on the MAS-type bodies made by Cromwell Molding.

 

[PeteT]

Absolutely, I always mix it by hand. It is very simple as follows: Mix your polyester resin (liquid) with the MEK hardener as usual, then you start adding the cabosil until you acheive the consistancy that you want. Actually, you cant put too much cabosil in so add enough until you have a nice paste that isnt runny. For your purposes, you will find that you want a consistancy thicker than peanut butter and closer to butter. As with your normal layups, mix only what you can use in about 7 - 8 minutes per batch. Also keep in mind that due to the thickenss the area will generate some heat so it is good to keep air circulating.

One last note of importance regarding the cabosil, when you open the container you will see that it is almost lighter than air and tends to become airborne so wear a dust mask..

Try a small amount and you will see what a pleasure it is to work with and how easily it smooths out. Oh, one last thing, if the cabosil mixture is going to be the final surface which will be sanded, as your supplier about adding a bit of styrene which makes the surface hard and eliminates gumminess.

Good luck

Thanks, you make it sound so easy. That's what I like about this site there's always experienced people willing to share their knowledge and help out.

I ordered my instruments yesterday but I'll need to get the steering and stuff in before I try this so it may be a while before I post some results.

 

[Mr. Fixit]

Yes, this is good to know and thanks for the explaination. Just one thing, does this mean that I need to know the composition of my body before picking a resin for the first time?

Hopefully Youngster can fill me in on what resin he uses on the MAS-type bodies made by Cromwell Molding.

Yes, you would need to know, but more than likely it is made with polyester due to production cost. Epoxies do afford low odor emissions, which is nice and are utilized for carbon fiber applications.