fletchersons T project

[2old2fast]

Not sure ,, I just saw them online and thought they would be perfect.
I was just going to buy them and make them work.

Because of the way those hinges open , I think you'd have interference between the rib at th top of the door & the same on the body ???
dave
as well as the body side/door being curved...

 

[choppedtop]

Don't see any way that they can work with a curved door.

 

[butch27]

FORD: Can we see what Ron made?

 

[fordnut]

Sorry butch I have not been able to attach pics, that's y I have not had any pics of my car. Maybe Ron has one he can post.

 

[fletcherson]

I decided to put a layer of biaxial over the inside of the door areas to strengthen it before attaching the oak because I am more than likely going to remove the reveal lines and move the doors rearward about an inch to allow for the posts. I did glass the inside hollow of the reveal with fibered bondo, but the uniform layer will assure its rigidity. I also laminated the rear part of the tub behind the seat with two layers and it is much more rigid. I won't have to reinforce the tub around the top now, which is good, because I won't have to sacrifice any space for the seat to tuck in there as far as possible. I did install the seat riser/jamb reinforcement and one side of the oak, I plan on doing the other side today, got the battery cover finished, running out of glass projects, thank God! Lol... Just kidding, it's not so bad. I am getting very irritated over the hinge situation. I think I might just go buy some cheap quality hardware store hinges and weld an extension on them to suit me. I can't believe how much they want for such a simple device....and the doors are so small and light, I just have a hard time justifying the expence. So tired of being gouged for simple things. I reject the new normal! I am also worn out with this horrible weather here in the Ohio valley....this is supposed to be the nice time of year. I haven't even gotten either convertible out of storage, and the bike hasn't seen daylight since March. Errr! It's tuff getting motivated when it's dark all of the time. I will post some pics of progress later.

Ok, productive day in the shop today, I got all of the oak installed on the tub, cut the old dash out and installed the new one. There is a good picture of the steel reinforcement that can be seen since the dash was cut out. You can also see how warped the cowl is from the original mold. I corrected that before installing the new dash. Laid out and cut the gauges and headlight switch holes, finished laminating the inside of the rear of the tub, overkill, but I want to paint the interior, so I wanted the glass to be the same level. That doesn't sound like much work, but I was busy all day and half the night, lol...

 

[fletcherson]

 

[old round fart]

Is that wider? I have looked at a bunch of T's and that one looks like me........... Wider!

 

[choppinczech]

Yea, the firewall looks like mine. And I added 9".

 

[RPM]

We have two new bodies that will be ready just any day. They will be 6" wider, both will be the 10" stretch. One will have a door and one won't. They are just about finished with the molds.

 

[tfeverfred]

Excellent work! I love the bracing and seat angle. That's going to be a really user friendly T Bucket.

 

[fletcherson]

We have two new bodies that will be ready just any day. They will be 6" wider, both will be the 10" stretch. One will have a door and one won't. They are just about finished with the molds.

If my frame and suspension were more adaptable, I would have went that route. The extra space would make it much more comfortable.

 

[fletcherson]

Is that wider? I have looked at a bunch of T's and that one looks like me........... Wider!

No, it's 39 " and some change. I wish it was longer and wider... It will do.

 

[fletcherson]

Ok, back from lowes with some potential t bucket door hinge candidates. They are "open away" hinges, heavy built standard type hinges, but are much longer and bent at 90* to allow the door to open and swing back away from the opening for handicapped accessibility, etc... I think there is enough material to make them work by flattening them and cutting to the desired length. If I can make them work, less than $24.00 in both doors, about what they want for shipping on Model T door hinges. Now the hardware is a different story. They nail you there, and only sell it individually or in small quantity packages. Always a catch, lol! I decided to go with brass threaded ferrels that thread into the wood and provide machine threads. I think if I epoxy them into the oak, they will be pleanty strong. If I used any softer wood, I would be less trusting. I will post some pics as I proceed if it looks like a successful venture. They had some nice heavy, not too large, strap hinges that I liked that had nice bushings, etc, and we're fairly precise, but they didn't close flat, so would have required modification or a very deep mortise. That and the tapered shape negated their potential. You would think that as many different size and designs as there are, there would be better candidates for such projects....

 

[fletcherson]

A little mock up to verify fitment. The windshield posts fit better. I moved the dash forwards a little when I cut the old one out, but between the placement of the bracing and the thickness of the new dash, I only netted about an eighth of an inch. It is better, but still won't allow me to cut the outside door reveals, so I will have to grind them off and manufacture smooth doors. They will fit better as a result. I am second guessing my no radio plan. I can still work one in if I plan now. I am thinking about installing the stereo under the seat, in the center of the riser and making provisions for speakers in the doors. I have seen thin speakers advertised, but they dont seem to advertise exactly how thick the thin speakers are. I only have about an inch in the hollows of the soon to be doors, but I can cut a ring to allow for the thickness of the speaker and use fleece to mold a concurve door surface, bulged, sort of. I think it will be ok as long as it's not too much, that part of the door is about in the knee bend area, so should not be too intrusive.

 

[old round fart]

The guy on how to build a t bucket video used hardware store hinges with extra material added to stick out far enough. Worked slick.

 

[butch27]

I would like to see that video. Where is it? On you tube??

 

[old round fart]

I would like to see that video. Where is it? On you tube??

Here is the link (I hope). I bought the set and love watching it. I put it on the tv in the shop and use it like a radio while I'm working. Lol
StreetRod 101 T-Bucket & Model A HotRod Mod's - StreetRodPlans.com

 

[fletcherson]

I have seen the ad for them, but didn't order because I was skeptical. Been ripped off too many times by clever on line marketing... Details are good!

 

[2old2fast]

There's 3 different listings on e-pay for T hinges...
dave

 

[Tjbucket]

My last windshield frame and posts were from CCR and were made for their body. Aluminum seems to be the material of choice. Mr. Roadster has several NICE polished ones, but I think they costs too much for what you get.

Mr Roadster?? Didn't Speedway buy them out?