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Ford 9 Changing Gear Lube?

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Hey all I'm new around here this is going to be my first post so don't flame me to hard on this super rookie question... I just picked up a new to me TP T-Bucket and it's been sitting for quite some time so I'm going thru and straightening up a serious lack of maitance and cleaning over the last couple of years. Anyways on to my quesiton... I'm assuming this is a Ford 9 inch rear end. There's no pumpkin cover on the rear to dump the fliud. I haven't had a chance to get it up in the air and take a good look yet so I'm gonna ask before I jump into this. Whats it take to drop the fluid? Do I have to pull the driveshaft and the entire front cover? Or is there a drain and fill hole somewhere I haven't located yet?
 
Normally you will have to drop the driveshaft off, remove both axles, and remove the head from the housing, mop the remaining oil out, put on a new gasket ,(with a smear of silicon sealer) then put it all back together. Fill the housing thru hole on the side of the diff head (drivers side, usually has a square recess in it to fit a ratchet) until it dribbles out the hole. Add a bottle of "posi" additive if so equipped, and then top it up. It's a messy job and if you're getting middle aged like me, is best done if you can get access to a hoist for a morning.
 
Hey all I'm new around here this is going to be my first post so don't flame me to hard on this super rookie question... I just picked up a new to me TP T-Bucket and it's been sitting for quite some time so I'm going thru and straightening up a serious lack of maitance and cleaning over the last couple of years. Anyways on to my quesiton... I'm assuming this is a Ford 9 inch rear end. There's no pumpkin cover on the rear to dump the fliud. I haven't had a chance to get it up in the air and take a good look yet so I'm gonna ask before I jump into this. Whats it take to drop the fluid? Do I have to pull the driveshaft and the entire front cover? Or is there a drain and fill hole somewhere I haven't located yet?
You can get a suction pump at most auto supply stores ... about $10 ... and that solves a lot of issues and keeps you from having to crack the case or any seals. I know O'Reillys sells them.
 
Normally you will have to drop the driveshaft off, remove both axles, and remove the head from the housing, mop the remaining oil out, put on a new gasket ,(with a smear of silicon sealer) then put it all back together. Fill the housing thru hole on the side of the diff head (drivers side, usually has a square recess in it to fit a ratchet) until it dribbles out the hole. Add a bottle of "posi" additive if so equipped, and then top it up. It's a messy job and if you're getting middle aged like me, is best done if you can get access to a hoist for a morning.

Man that pumpkin cover not being there makes for fun times I see... will prolly end up spending the day laying on a creeper... but it's gotta be done so i'll just find some extra time to schedule in for this one... Thanks for the info...
 
You can get a suction pump at most auto supply stores ... about $10 ... and that solves a lot of issues and keeps you from having to crack the case or any seals. I know O'Reillys sells them.

Hrmm... I've got a pnumatic one but it's a bit moist back there thinking this time around a fresh seal is the way to go and do it the hard way...
 
Normally you will have to drop the driveshaft off, remove both axles, and remove the head from the housing, mop the remaining oil out, put on a new gasket ,(with a smear of silicon sealer) then put it all back together. Fill the housing thru hole on the side of the diff head (drivers side, usually has a square recess in it to fit a ratchet) until it dribbles out the hole. Add a bottle of "posi" additive if so equipped, and then top it up. It's a messy job and if you're getting middle aged like me, is best done if you can get access to a hoist for a morning.

Am I gonna be able to pull the axles without completely tearing down the Drums or am I in for reaplacing that bad wheel cylinder while i'm in there?
 
How about a picture of the rear end 3/4 side view. (drivers side).
 
While you have it opened up, you can drill and put in a drain plug. Thats usually what I do....I know usually some folks take the centerchunk loose, and just let the fluid drain, then tighten things back up and fill.
I use a magnetic drain plug also....
 
If it's indeed a TP bucket ,most likely it's an 8" diff. , same rules apply as the 9" , don't forget that there are copper crush washers under the nuts holding the pumpkin in ... if not replaced often they'll seep grease ...
dave
 
While you have it opened up, you can drill and put in a drain plug. Thats usually what I do....I know usually some folks take the centerchunk loose, and just let the fluid drain, then tighten things back up and fill.
I use a magnetic drain plug also....

That would really make it easier in the future... and yeah I thought of just making a big leak by loosening but I don't think it's gonna seal back up which is really my main concern since it's currently weeping...
 
If it's indeed a TP bucket ,most likely it's an 8" diff. , same rules apply as the 9" , don't forget that there are copper crush washers under the nuts holding the pumpkin in ... if not replaced often they'll seep grease ...
dave

it is a TP Frame 95% sure on that... it's got a TP Vin number... stamped on the frame
 
I personally don't care for rtv on a paper gskt , brushable permatex or spray copper-coat would be me my choices..

dave
 
I personally don't care for rtv on a paper gskt , brushable permatex or spray copper-coat would be me my choices..

dave

Yeah thats why I asked I'm not a big fan of putting it on paper either... so I didn't get any pics today... after 3 trips to the parts houses and going to several of them trying to figure out an oil filter plus throwing on a new set of valve covers I lost daylight and am pretty exhausted... Trying to figure out a filter for an older crate motor was a blast...
 

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