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front end bounce issue

It has been my experance that if you are using your tires for a more comfotable ride you need to redo your suspension. I run 30psi in the front and 15 in the rear tires. Front Hyd. shocks on the front and double adjustable coil overs in the rear worked for me..............

Mike

Hi Mike,
Why are you running the 15 psi in the rear? Is it for tire type, wear, or ride?
Got me curious.
Thanks,
Ron
 
Ron that just seems to be a good comb for wear for that big tire. Remember you only have a 1000 lbs on pretty wide tires. I think much more air would cause the tire to ride more on the center of the tread and that might let them spin easier......

Mike
 
Ron that just seems to be a good comb for wear for that big tire. Remember you only have a 1000 lbs on pretty wide tires. I think much more air would cause the tire to ride more on the center of the tread and that might let them spin easier......

Mike
Thanks Mike,
I have a super accurate 0-30 psi gauge from my Jeep mudder days, measures in half pound increments. I have 275/60/15 Firestone Indy radials in the rear, I will play with differant settings for a while to get the best results.

This car is all new to me, I traded a '62 Ford gasser for it and have alot to learn.
My bucket list (bad pun) is getting shorter on cars I want to own, only have a Corvette left to fill it and all the people I talk to at shows and all don't seem very happy with the years I can afford, 1975-1977 models. They are always complaining about this or that, unless it is for sale, of course!
 
Rear tire PSI on a lite bucket with biggys can often be found by just laying a ruler across the top[side to side] and look to see if the tread is falt,crowned or dipped,closer to falt across is best=this may only take 10 or 12 psi to do and if ride feels good there that can be run OK. Each car and tire is a def deel to some point,so playing around a little is good.
 
Way to bring up a 2 year old thread for nothing there buddy, If you read it......It clearly says that all the parts are from RPM. And no they are not on the website you gotta call him.

cut him some slack he's new to this ..........we all had to start somewhere
 
Kinda hard to get to look nice with parallel springs. You may get that and one of Ron's dropped tube axles. The spindles and brakes are worth the $300 bucks but no more. Then use the axle to make a trailer to pull behind the T.
 
Way to bring up a 2 year old thread for nothing there buddy

Well, I'm having the same problem, and this will keep me from having to start my own thread on the same topic. So, maybe it's not quite for nothing... ;)

As background, I think the frame and suspension in my bucket are from Total, just like the OP's. When I first bought the car a couple months ago, the front axle would oscillate (seesaw) like crazy when I hit 60 mph or so. The problem was really severe, so bad I thought parts would break. The axle would jump up and down to the absolute limits, smacking the tie rod into the radius rods on both sides several times a second.

It turned out the car had been sitting a long time, and the front tires, which were more than ten years old, had developed a few flat spots. I also found that the friction shocks weren't working, even though they'd been tightened down at some point by the proverbial 300 lb. gorilla. Replacing the friction pads and adding a lot of air pressure to the tires helped, but the problem was still there. Since then, I've replaced the friction shocks with hydraulics and replaced the front tires (MT Sportsman Front 26 X 7.50 - 15) with smaller Nexen 165/80r15 radials. Because I put radials on the front, I also replaced the huge MT rear belted tires with somewhat smaller MT Sportsman S/R 29 X 15R15LTs. The rear rims were changed at the same time.

Through all of this, I've been careful not to drive the car too fast. The oscillation is really scary, especially in traffic, so I've been sorta easing her speed up gradually since making the changes. Sadly, the problem is still there. The new shocks control it enough to prevent the tie rod slapping other front end parts, but the wheels otherwise oscillate just like before. I'll add that the company that changed the front tires really botched the job (another story for another day). I was sure that among other things, they hadn't balanced them correctly. Today I took the car to another service center, and they spent a lot of time inspecting the wheels and tires. One tire was out of balance more than five ounces, the other out by four. The most disappointing thing was when I left. The first time I hit speed, the oscillation started up again. In fact, despite the improvement in balance, there was virtually no "before and after" difference.

Below is a photo of the front end (still has the MT front tires). I'm at the point now where I'm considering whether to replace the leaf spring. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

Jack

p1720578603-4.jpg
 
Can't tell from the pic, do you have a Panhard rod? That's the only thing I see that might make a difference.
 
Can't tell from the pic, do you have a Panhard rod? That's the only thing I see that might make a difference.

No panhard rod, just a steering stabilizer. (The photo shows it before the new shocks were mounted.) I don't understand how a panhard rod would affect wheel hop. Doesn't it just prevent the axle from moving left/right?

p1715248059-4.jpg
 
You said, " The axle would jump up and down to the absolute limits, smacking the tie rod into the radius rods on both sides several times a second." Maybe I'm missing something here, but the tie rod and radius rods are virtually tied together with the tie rod going relatively equidistant between each "arm" of the radius rod and should not move independently, therefore, I don't see how the tie rod can be hitting the radius rods. Have you checked the caster? How about the toe also?

Jim
 
I was sure that among other things, they hadn't balanced them correctly. Today I took the car to another service center, and they spent a lot of time inspecting the wheels and tires. One tire was out of balance more than five ounces, the other out by four.

I had a similar problem (bounce) that I chased for months. It was the tires. My tire man thinks the rim beads on the tires were stretched when they were mounted. If you need four or five ounces of weight to balance, you have a problem with the tire/rim combo. That's a fourth of a pound and a lot of weight on such a small tire IMO. I know that you replaced the tires, but I think you still have a balance or out-of-round problem. It could be the rims. Also, the brake rotors could be out of balance, but that wouldn't show up on a regular balancer. If you can find someone with one of the old time balancers that spins the tires on the car, I would take it to them. Not very many of them left, though.

Also, as Junk pointed out, if your tie rod is hitting the hairpins, you have something flexing that shouldn't be. The tie rod and/or the hairpins may be bending under load. Not good.
 

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