Fuel tank for Fad

Belt sander and a bit of DA'ing afterwards. Very dirty hands and a few cuts to boot.
Gerry

 

Gerry: That looks fantastic...maybe you ought to just leave it in bare metal...its a real piece of art!

 

Awesome work Gerry :thumb:

 

Beautiful job Gerry. You have the patience of a saint. After all is together and you put it in a few shows, you know someone will look at the tank and say that it was stock and that all the tanks were made that way. I got your PM and I must ask specifically, how were the rear wheels created? What was the line of reasoning and construction. When's it gonna run???

John

 

I did nt want the fuel sender just sitting there looking like an afterthought, so I made yet another cap to cover it. Got to drill a hole for the wires, which will be shrunk wrapped in yellow. Sort of neatens it all up. Cap will be coated when the tank is done.



Gerry

 

Just finished the pressure test and guess what. 2 more slight leaks. So back to the welder on Monday and have another go.
G

 

G, does the welder do a "wash" (I think that's the term) to fill the holes or will he add metal?

 

He will need to add metal as its gone thin along a seam on one end
G

PS E mail for you re wheels

 

Got it, thanks.

 

Better to find out now!!

I am sure I am not the only one that cannot wait to see it when its finished!

 

Aint that the truth. Aim is to get it leak tight and the put in the liquid liner as an insurance and to give it some flexibility if it should ever get hit from behind (a very unpleasant experience, so Im told)
G

 

Just getting hit "anywhere" in a T Bucket is a very bad experience, not fun, and the cost to fix is a lot more than to build from the start... I really HATED insurance work, fixing a Hotrod that someone else built, was/is a real bucket of worms, the more you look and the deeper you go, the worse it gets... a never ending deal, easier to jack up the radiator car, and slide a new car under and go...

 

That I understand.
We have a number of Rods in for trans problems. I dread to put then on the 4 poster because I then have to look at their suspension, steering, drive shafts etc. Has a 36 chevy in with the UJ on the diff to prop shaft so bad I wondered how i ever road tested it. No needles in the caps so raw UJ to raw UJ. Its really frightening.

Then had a look at the steering.
It had 2 UJs and no support what soever. Turn the steering wheel and watch the shaft just move up and down by almost an inch. They had decided that the support given by the 'bush' in the end of the column was good enough for the 2 UJs that were between it and the rack

I refused to drive that one till it was fixed.

Sometimes you just need to educated the people who buy these cars and believe they are put together in a competent and tested manner
Gerry

 

Gerry, I have sooooo many horror stories that I could tell about VERY bad frames, suspensions, steerings, brakes, engine mounts, you name it it all has been done by folks that just did not know better, just lucky that they or someone else was not killed by their not knowing...

 

Hate to bring it up but haven't heard from Tfeverfred in a long time.

 

What bothers me is when someone comes in with a problem and I find other things that are worse that what they came in for. Then when you tell them they don't want it fixed cause it ain't broke yet. I have been known to turn away work 'cause of safety issues. Sorry but I don't want to be conected to that car in any way.

Ron

 

I had a customer's complete chassis hanging on my shop wall... he had just bought it from another chassis shop, brought it in for me to fix... I pointed out all that was not going to work, if he wanted to really drive the car... I told him I could build him a complete new frame and all the suspension cheaper than trying to fix what he had... Like I said, it was hanging on my wall, and it worked very well for showing my other customers the other fellow's work, on what not to buy, and why... Now I did tell him, if was ONLY going to be a show car and not driven much at all, it would be just OK for that... but not a show winner either...

 

The leaks we had were on the weld in fittings in the base plate. Seems that the thickness of the base plate, coupled to the material used for the weld in fittings meant we were suffering from stress cracks up the middle of the weld. So it was a gentle reweld a small bit at a time. Should be all OK to go for coating next week.

Ho Hum another few weeks passed. But at least it is the last big thing to do before we get to a point of
FIREUP

Gerry

 

Gerry, I hope you have a stock exhaust system, hook it all up backwards, to the front, manifolds, head pipes and mufflers, so you can HEAR your engine without all the racket, and not wreck your new beautiful headers... Then when it is all tuned up and working as it should, make it look trick again...

 

FIRE UP !?!?!?!? Wonderful. Any projected time of delivery? Kinda like having a baby. Will it be like a normal start up or is there a special procedure you will go thru because of the injection. Will the engine need to be broken in? If so, I recomend a carb set up for the run in and then install the injection and tune from there.

Looking forward to the video.


John