Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Got parts need advice!

C

Chirp

New Member
I've managed to find an old MAS body(YIKES), 2x3 tubing, donor rear, and a complete front end. I think I'm ready to start building the frame.
Question #1 Since I now realize I have to stretch the body 4-6 inches, and possibly widen a few inches. Should I just lengthen the frame a similar amount, and perhaps widen the rear also, or is there any wiggle room built into the CCR plans I am using. I plan on using a SBF with T5.
Q#2 I have a piece of 2 3/8 x .157 wall tubing is this adequate for the front crossmember.(Suicide Mount)
Q#3 Does anyone here reinforce the bodys with metal tubing instead of wood? I would really like to do 2 doors, Wouldn't tubing be better?
Thanks for the help!!
 
In my opinion if your going to work the body do that first then build the frame to suit the modified body.
I WOULD NOT use .157 tubing for the front crossmember.
Generally fiberglass bonds better to wood but some of the new adhevises will bond steel to anything.
I wood use wood pun intended.
Everything but the front crossmember could go either way but again use .250 for the cross member.

Randall
 
Thanks for the info. I figured the tubing was undersized but I had to ask.
I guess I will title this chapter in my T build -"The Winging ,Fudging ,and Pondering Stage". Thanks again Bruce
 
Randall's thinking is the same as mine, wood bonds better to glass and has the same compression/expansion rate so it tends to not crack out as easily.

We buy our front crossmembers from Total Performance. Price used to be $25, and their perch is made to fit right on it. It is the right size to put into a 3 inch thick frame too. I would buy it locally, but that size is hard to find, and they want you to take like 25 feet minimum.

Don
 
If you are going to stretch the body, do that before you widen it. you might find that the stretch is all you need to do.

Before you start cutting the body, Measure the sides and the distance between the dash and the back of the body. Also cross measure the from the corners of the dash to the seams at the rear corners. if there is a difference in the sides, trim the bottom of the long side and then cross measure again. If there is a difference in the length or the cross measurement, you can fix that when you cut the body. I have used 4 of these bodies and this is the way I start to straighten the body. Let me know if you run into trouble, I can walk you through this.

To lengthen the body, if there is a difference in the length of the interior, cut it behind the door. I would take half of the stretch out there and the rest out by moving the firewall ahead.

For the front cross member use DOM tubing, not pipe. You can tell the difference between the two by measuring the piece. Tubing is measured by the outside diameter, pipe by the inside diameter. If you can't find the tubing, use Dons suggestion and order it from Total or Sprint.

I wouldn't open the drivers side door. That will really weaken the body.

Ron
 
Thanks Youngster! Once the weather breaks I'll start the stretch, I'm trying to do the glass work outside.
My original plan was to have two doors,suicide them, and stretch the body out like a 27. That was the reason I wanted to run steel for body reinforcement.
But I'm scaling back to a cowl stretch, and going wth the wood reinorcement. Maybe my next one I'll take it up a notch, or just start with a 27. This is pretty cool I don't know why I waited so long to build one of these babies. Thanks Again!
 
I 've seen the big pic. of that car. NICE!!
Your car is what made me think of building a 2 door. That is why I was originally leaning towards steel body reinforcement.
Is that body stretched in the cowl and behind door?

You have a mach. shop? If I may ask how hard is it finding qualified machinist? There seems to be a rising demand for good people up here.
Just Curious.

Thanks Bruce
 
Some times as much as we wish to use what we got,it maybe time to see the balance of cost and time in getting a new body that is already what ya want for the build.
 
Chirp said:
I 've seen the big pic. of that car. NICE!!
Your car is what made me think of building a 2 door. That is why I was originally leaning towards steel body reinforcement.
Is that body stretched in the cowl and behind door?

You have a mach. shop? If I may ask how hard is it finding qualified machinist? There seems to be a rising demand for good people up here.
Just Curious.

Thanks Bruce
Click to expand...

The body came out of a mold that has the strtch in it. Then it was widened 6" after that.

I have a small machine shop. I am a certified master engine machinist, and I make some hot rod parts in my spare time.

I used wood around the top of the body and 1" square steel around the doors and behind the dash to support it all.
 
I'm just going to stretch the cowl area 4 possibly 5 inches or so. If that goes well I'll through 4 inches in behind the door. Decided on one door, probably no add. width.
If I get stuck I'll yell for help. Thanks for help & suggestions.
 
got a friend that widened his body 6". It's nice and roomy. I built a 15 body many years ago because I thought it looked alot better than the 23. But it is very small and tight. Several years ago I was gonna get another body that was stretched and widened. But then I got a 29 sedan body and my son built a frame for it in his Ag Welding class project last year. Will start on that this month, finally. So I will keep the bucket the way it is.
 
There are alot of opinions on the front ends most. I just wanted to see if anyone had used this size tube before and what the outcome was. I happen to have a piece of 5/32 wall tube that's why I asked in the first place. I was also giving some thought to drilling straight through the frame rails and welding totaly around the tube on both sides of the frame. Just to be a little different I guess.
Luckily the local steel co. has a ends and oddball room .50/lb. I'll take a spin tomorrow.
And thanks for the eyeball!!
 
All the info contained here in this thread is good. All of it will work too. I dont use any metal or wood in my bodies at all, just prefer to thicken them up with glass mat and resin. I use 3/4 inch plywood in the floor and for the seat. The sides are pure glass. I upholster the sides with door skins( kind of a cardboard) for my medium.They slide in from the top and are connected to the seat riser on the sides and back.The whole interior is a drop in. The floor and inside firewall is carpet.All electrics are located under the seat. The front cross tube can be made out of any scrap pipe or tubing from any scrap yard and can be from 2" to 21/2" measured from outside. Doesnt matter, not critical at all. Should be at least 1/4" thick tho for strength. Keep seems pointing toward bottom or inside for looks on paint job.You can make T buckets as long or short as you want to, 2 doors,1 door or no doors. If you make a 2 door, you will have trouble squeezing your fat butt in there with the steering wheel in the way. Maybe you could use one of those racing steering wheels that come off... Mikey
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Kick up height on a frame with a model a rear crossmember
Replies
6
Views
2K
T-Test
T-Test
AltBantam
Extending the height of the side of the body?
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
AltBantam
AltBantam
AltBantam
Drivetrain Angles... too much for the street?
Replies
6
Views
1K
PotvinGuy
PotvinGuy
AltBantam
Rear Suspension Dilemma
Replies
8
Views
20K
T-Test
T-Test
AltBantam
Alt Bantam
5 6 7
Replies
134
Views
9K
Buffman
B

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top