Hi my name is John, I was checking out this site because I have the opportunity to by a total performance project( I believe all the basic parts are there) and I wanted to do a little research. The kit has never been built, and although I consider myself a pretty handy person, I want to make sure I'm not getting in over my head. I've checked out the Total Performance website and I think I can handle it. For those of you who have built them I was wondering how much welding was involved? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hello from N.Y.
- Thread starter jdevs1
- Start date
Ted Brown
Member
Helloooooooooo John, and welcome to the greatest T Bucket bunch you will ever meet, a lot of good lessons here.. As far as their Kits go, I have not kept up with their stuff, so I can not say how much welding there is... A good tig welder is nice for smaller items like Radius rods, Tie rod ends, things you may want to Chrome, etc. and either a good stick welder or a Mig welder (wire) for frame and heavier welds, axle, rear end brackets. etc.
A nice flat table to lay everything out, for setup and welding is always handy.. When in doubt, ask an older welder, he can alwys give you a helping hand... Good Luck with your project, PS use no Heims in suspension parts that have any side stress, like Radius rods, use only for Tie rods and linkage push, pull items. Use 4 Bar bushings, or spring rubber bushings, they are best for street use... Quiet, soft ride and very hard to break anything they are attached to... Need any more help, just ask away, someone here will help you...
A nice flat table to lay everything out, for setup and welding is always handy.. When in doubt, ask an older welder, he can alwys give you a helping hand... Good Luck with your project, PS use no Heims in suspension parts that have any side stress, like Radius rods, use only for Tie rods and linkage push, pull items. Use 4 Bar bushings, or spring rubber bushings, they are best for street use... Quiet, soft ride and very hard to break anything they are attached to... Need any more help, just ask away, someone here will help you...
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the forum! The basiis for my T Bucket was a Total chassis. All I can say is, "Everything fit". The only welding that needed to be down was because I used their Watts linkage set up, rear radius rod brackets and shock brackets on my rearend. Other than that, it bolted right up. Do yourself a favor and see if you can still get their assembly manual. It's a good reference for building any T Bucket, not just theirs. And if you have questions, post them here. There's a ton of talent on this website and we love to help when we can.
WDP
Member
Welcome, glad you decided to drop in! Lots of excellent knowledge on this site!
My car is a TP kit that I purchased from them and got on the road in 07. 4200+ miles as of last night. I got the basic kit with the frame welded and drilled for all the mounts. All suspension brackets were welded to the frame so assembly required no welding in my case. As Fred said everything fit. You can buy the frame unwelded and of course that will be a different deal.
If the parts don't include it, spring the $25.00 for Total's assembly manual. It has all the drawings and instructions you need to get the car going. It even has drawings for brackets and the frame if you want to home brew any parts . I think its a good investment for a Total project.
What ever you decide I hope you get a T on the road. It's about the best therapy there is for a bad day! You'll smile everytime you hit the starter switch!
Dale
My car is a TP kit that I purchased from them and got on the road in 07. 4200+ miles as of last night. I got the basic kit with the frame welded and drilled for all the mounts. All suspension brackets were welded to the frame so assembly required no welding in my case. As Fred said everything fit. You can buy the frame unwelded and of course that will be a different deal.
If the parts don't include it, spring the $25.00 for Total's assembly manual. It has all the drawings and instructions you need to get the car going. It even has drawings for brackets and the frame if you want to home brew any parts . I think its a good investment for a Total project.
What ever you decide I hope you get a T on the road. It's about the best therapy there is for a bad day! You'll smile everytime you hit the starter switch!
Dale
LumenAl
Member
John,
:lol:
Have you started on it yet? :lol: Collectively there is 1000's of years experience here... really! Don't be afraid to ask anything as most everyone is very willing to share their knowledge and experiences and do so without judgement... and don't forget, we love pictures! (it's in the :rulz
:lol:
Have you started on it yet? :lol: Collectively there is 1000's of years experience here... really! Don't be afraid to ask anything as most everyone is very willing to share their knowledge and experiences and do so without judgement... and don't forget, we love pictures! (it's in the :rulz
gudgyz
New Member
Welcome to the site, there is a wealth of knowledge here, use the search fuction and if that doesnt work just ask, there are a lot of knowledgable people here. The beauty of sites such as this is you can draw from folk all over the world. While us guys down under may not know the specfic makes or model, brand names of parts you guys in the US use we have a pretty sound understanding of what works.
While a newbie to this site, i have built a few cars over the years, in different countries, 30 years of tinkering to date, long may it continue.....
While a newbie to this site, i have built a few cars over the years, in different countries, 30 years of tinkering to date, long may it continue.....
ACJC
New Member
Welcome John from a former Binghamtonian. While I bought my Total car assembled, I don't think there is any welding needed to finish the basic kit. As some of the other said, spend the $25 bucks for the build book, it's worth it's weight in gold. It is a great reference source.
Enjoy the site, the members on here are the bomb!
AC JC
Enjoy the site, the members on here are the bomb!
AC JC
jim shepard
New Member
why the comment use no heims in suspension parts? im curious what would you use?
i have a very short panhard bar going front to back from chassis to rear end with heim ends on it and when i let off the gas i get a banging ,i adjust this rod and it changes the level of the rear end and it gets worse ,any ideas
/
i have a very short panhard bar going front to back from chassis to rear end with heim ends on it and when i let off the gas i get a banging ,i adjust this rod and it changes the level of the rear end and it gets worse ,any ideas
/
jim shepard
New Member
welcome,im from northville ny have a 23 t bucket i dont think there is any welding call them at total they are great guys and answer all my silly questions and if you are near Dutchess county fairgrounds when they are there you can seee the products they offer,they are very helpfull,,,but you can't beat the wealth of knowledge the guys on this forum have,good luck to you
LumenAl
Member
jim shepard said:
I'm sure Jim will shed some light on what should be used, but thought I'd share what I used... For the tie rod, front radius rods, upper rear 4 link and drag link that attaches to steering arm I used Polished SS tie rod ends as shown below
The drag link where the pitman arm attaches uses a model A tie rod end... (chromed) different animal... looks like this
and the pitman arm has a ball if you will that is installed through the opening you see on the side of the tube and is held in with cups and springs with threaded end cap
When I had a problem with this setup, GAB machined some up for me overnight!
and it was youngster who told me about the model A setup! I love this place!
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