Hey IndyCars, hows that motor Runnin?
- Thread starter Indycars
- Start date
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Hey Indy, when you go to sit the dist. down in the hole for the first time, leave the gasket off between the dist. base and the intake. Drop it in and turn it to engage the pump. get a .oo3/.oo5 feeler....that feeler should NOT go under the dist. base. You should have metal to metal contact there, and thats with hand pressure holding it down lightly.
If its sticking up any, you'll have to shim between the intake and the base, to keep from stacking up solid when you time it and tighten the dist. hold-down. When I build mine, I have a gage that sits in the hole, its like a go/no-go gage but has a indicator built in....then I can shim things accoudingly.
I also drill and tap the housing base for a small zerk(I remove the ball and spring on the grinder) OR a 1/16 fitting between where the base sits (bottom bushing) and the top bushing. Then I install a small hose and connect it at the back of the block outta the way.
Before the rings seat and as the motor wears, and as the valve seals wear also, the motor has a little base pressure before things seat. That real light oil mist can get up into your dist. housing and cause jumping, failed components. I absolutely do this when a optical pickup is used as this can affect it 'Seeing' the gap it needs to see....
I've had drag motors bust a ring/break a piston during a run, and when pulling down the motor have found a oily mess up in the dist. housing.....
If its sticking up any, you'll have to shim between the intake and the base, to keep from stacking up solid when you time it and tighten the dist. hold-down. When I build mine, I have a gage that sits in the hole, its like a go/no-go gage but has a indicator built in....then I can shim things accoudingly.
I also drill and tap the housing base for a small zerk(I remove the ball and spring on the grinder) OR a 1/16 fitting between where the base sits (bottom bushing) and the top bushing. Then I install a small hose and connect it at the back of the block outta the way.
Before the rings seat and as the motor wears, and as the valve seals wear also, the motor has a little base pressure before things seat. That real light oil mist can get up into your dist. housing and cause jumping, failed components. I absolutely do this when a optical pickup is used as this can affect it 'Seeing' the gap it needs to see....
I've had drag motors bust a ring/break a piston during a run, and when pulling down the motor have found a oily mess up in the dist. housing.....
Last edited:
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Well, in your dist. you probably have a bearing instead of a bushing in the top....
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Well it finally happened last Sunday, after over three years working on the
new engine and transmission. Never having worked on an automatic and
with all the machine work and upgrades, this took awhile to complete.
First attempt to start the car. The neutral safety switch was not being tripped
like it should be in Park. The spring in the shifter needs to be stronger.
This is the first time the engine starts. In the beginning the choke is closed
and causing it to idle rough, but after a couple of minutes the engine smooths
out. It obvious when that happens, the idle RPM goes up rapidly.
I did have a small water leak, but looking at the big picture here, its a very
minor thing. I was very pleased with how things went overall.
The wife being funny again!!!
Oil pressure at 180°F and 1100 RPM is 50 psi.
Vacuum at 1100 RPM is 12 inches
Electric fan was cycling on/off as it should.
new engine and transmission. Never having worked on an automatic and
with all the machine work and upgrades, this took awhile to complete.
First attempt to start the car. The neutral safety switch was not being tripped
like it should be in Park. The spring in the shifter needs to be stronger.
This is the first time the engine starts. In the beginning the choke is closed
and causing it to idle rough, but after a couple of minutes the engine smooths
out. It obvious when that happens, the idle RPM goes up rapidly.
I did have a small water leak, but looking at the big picture here, its a very
minor thing. I was very pleased with how things went overall.
The wife being funny again!!!
Oil pressure at 180°F and 1100 RPM is 50 psi.
Vacuum at 1100 RPM is 12 inches
Electric fan was cycling on/off as it should.
Back the choke all the way off and lock it down so it doesn't work. Take it off and/or lock the choke flap wide open with a piece of wire/coat hanger. Don't need a choke with a carb like that. Just mash gas pedal three times to floor and it'll light right off. Should be sitting in bucket when cranking up as with the N/S switch might be incorrect and car run over you. BTDT ONCE!! Put on jack stands to be safe! JMHO
Got pinned to the wall by starting the car in the shop with a remote starter. N/S switch not adjusted correctly and car cranked in gear. BTDT stands for[ been there done that]!! Only once means it never happened again as I always raise the rear wheels when starting and not being in the car.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
After about 40 minutes of run time on my new engine, I changed the oil and filter. Later I cut open the oil filter to see if I had a problem. Now I'm not experienced at filter inspection, probably cut open about 3 filters so far with the tool I bought.
Is there a better way to remove the filter media than cutting it top and bottom?
Would you agree that the filter looks good?
Is there a better way to remove the filter media than cutting it top and bottom?
Would you agree that the filter looks good?
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Good Job! What I do, get the 8X magnifier and look for glitter in the oil, if none, I'd call it good, with no noises/ squalling/knocking. I usually do a oil test, but thats for the hi-dollar motors. I believe BG makes one....can't remember.
Sounds healthy from what I can hear....
Sounds healthy from what I can hear....
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Made a couple of full throttle passes in the first two gears. It shifts way to soon if I let the trans do it's thing. So in the videos I tried shifting manually. I know my fuel system will not keep up with this motor, but not sure if it's coming into play in the first two gears. Either way it sure is fun. 
Demon carburetor is straight out of the box, no tuning done yet. Total timing is set to 35°.
First pass video.
Second pass video.
Demon carburetor is straight out of the box, no tuning done yet. Total timing is set to 35°.
First pass video.
Second pass video.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Sounds good... with my ear buds in and volume wide open. Sounds just a touch fat, but she does sound good though!
She'll probably be OK after the breakin....
She'll probably be OK after the breakin....
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Motor sounded good, wasn't reving as hard as it should have been, could be a secondary bog, or the mix a little on the fat side.Thanks Screaming!!! I like to watch it on my 28" monitor at 1920 x 1080, with nose about 12 inches from the screen !!!
Grumpy thought the secondaries were only partially opening by the way it sounded. What can you tell, if anything, from the sound?
That thing ought to throw you back in the seat and rev hard enough that your attention should be on hanging on! When you get the mix right, you'll' know it! The words 'Holy Schit!' will pass from your mouth....
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Really ...... I'm looking forward to uttering those words, not that anyone will here me. Most likely it will be more detectable on my FACE.The words 'Holy Schit!' will pass from your mouth....
Last edited:
Screaming Metal
Active Member
A Expression worth a Thousand Words! Hahaha.....ROFLMAOReally ...... I'm looking forward to uttering those words, not that anyone will here me. Most likely it will be more detectable on my FACE.
rbsWELDER
Active Member
Hey Screaming Metal
, who is BG, that sells the oil filter cutter?
Screaming Metal
Active Member
BG, which stands for Bearing Gear has kits where you can diagnose contaminants in your oil, also has cutters or did have them, I have a couple. Also....
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/OIL-FILTER-CUTTER,2618.html
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Default&autoview=SKU
I also have some Avery and K-Line cutters, but they are very heavy duty and made to last, and their price tag reflects that. That is why they're alot more than Summits and Speedways....
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Wasn't that you or was it someone else that posted the pic of the tiremark on the body, or should I say, Car mark???? It was a couple of years ago....
Similar threads
