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How do you remove the inner race?

Greg R

New Member
In the Spirit kit you must replace the inner race in the rotors. How the heck do you get the old ones out without damaging something?
 
Lay it on two 2x4's and use a brass punch an going from sidetoside work it out takes a little work but it will come out
 
Francis Blake said:
Lay it on two 2x4's and use a brass punch an going from sidetoside work it out takes a little work but it will come out

Thanks for the response. I started to use a small screwdriver and hammer but was worried I might damage it.
 
If you have access to a welder, weld a couple of beads 180 apart on the bearing surface of the race and it will fall out.

Bob
 
I've been to Sears and Harbor Freight Tools and both were sold out of brass punches. I ordered a set on the internet but in the meantime thought I would try heating the race like Ted advised.

I have a 1100 degree heat gun and heated the race for probably 30-40 seconds and got no results.

Is that temperature hot enough and how long should I apply heat?

Thanks guys for your help.
 
Sorry Ted but a bearing race will expand when heated.I've worked with Timken bearings all day long for 30 years and when i install a race i put it in dry ice to shrink it then heat the bearing to expand it to fit over the lathe spindles.
 
Go to ace or lowes and pickup a small piece of brass roundstock and make you a punch. By the time you roundup all you need you might be better off to just knock it out and purchase a new race and bearing. JMO
 
I do use a steel punch driving the old one out from the opposite side being careful not to hit the seat where the race sits.Take a steel punch and grind a 90 degree edge on the face then dive it out using this.Usually there are 2 notches behind the race to get at it.
 
Just be carefull cause aluminum,brassand bronze bars will sliver when you beat on them so when your installing it just watch for chips to come off the the bar and lodge under the race.which will make the race sit crooked and you will not like that ride at all.
 
Rick said:
Sorry Ted but a bearing race will expand when heated.I've worked with Timken bearings all day long for 30 years and when i install a race i put it in dry ice to shrink it then heat the bearing to expand it to fit over the lathe spindles.
That is totally correct, it trys to expand, but can't, so when it cools off, it now is a bit smaller, same as welding on it... :D
 
Ted i have seen steam fitters use that trick to get press fit pipe apart cool trick.
 
rooster57 said:
Ted i have seen steam fitters use that trick to get press fit pipe apart cool trick.
I am Sorry if I come across in a bad way at times, and probably do, but I only want new people to this sport to not have to go through all the crap that I went through for many years, as that is such a waste of time and money, I also love to hear good tips, as I am still learning, I learned most of them from older grouchy fellows like I am now.. hehe If I get too far out of line, tell me to my face, not to everybody else first, that ain't COOL as far as I see it... I usually say it as I see it, and it ain't always pretty... But I love these T Buckets ... :)
 
Ted Brown said:
That is totally correct, it trys to expand, but can't, so when it cools off, it now is a bit smaller, same as welding on it... :)
Ted, do you think a heat gun at 1100 degrees is enough heat and if so how long would it need to be heated? I'm new at this metal stuff.:eek:
 
Greg R said:
Ted, do you think a heat gun at 1100 degrees is enough heat and if so how long would it need to be heated? I'm new at this metal stuff.:eek:

No a heat gun won't work. The weld trick works most every time. Just run a small bead in the center of the race and just let it cool. Most times the race will just fall out. Just be real carefull you don't slip just a little a weld the race in.

There really should be 2 releifs cast inside the hub of that rotor allowing you to use a long punch and drive that race out.
 
RPM said:
No a heat gun won't work. The weld trick works most every time. Just run a small bead in the center of the race and just let it cool. Most times the race will just fall out. Just be real carefull you don't slip just a little a weld the race in.

There really should be 2 releifs cast inside the hub of that rotor allowing you to use a long punch and drive that race out.
Thanks. I don't weld so the punch will have to do.
 
Over the years I have come to useing key stock over brass or aluminum. Low cost, You can grind the tip you need for the job at hand, no slivers jumpling off, easy to get in many sizes.
 

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