Just finished welding my frame, need help with bracket questions

[T-Test]

I think these would work better and have more area to move them around. Plus less expensive and a Forum supplier

.Frame Brackets

 

[RESINATOR]

The nuts are 5/8 - 18 RH for the bottom of the spring perches, we use nylock style nuts. If you decide to use a different shock mount you will need tapered nuts instead.
Here are the brackets we sell, they have 5/8" holes

 

[Island Girl]

From a stress analysis perspective, the Speedway brackets offer more lateral force resistance because of the bend at each end, as opposed to both others being flat.

Maybe a bit more expensive, but they would be my choice, and for that reason.

Darlene

 

[409T]

5/8" bolt and heim vs. 1/2"

 

[T-Test]

From a stress analysis perspective, the Speedway brackets offer more lateral force resistance because of the bend at each end, as opposed to both others being flat.

Maybe a bit more expensive, but they would be my choice, and for that reason.

Darlene

I tried those once and they tend to interfere with other things like steering and engine mounts, remote filter and such. I know you can use these but they were designed for a different type/model of car and mainly 4 bar front/rear applications was stated. But also for radius rods. Also the 5/8 bolt instead of 1/2 inch.

 

[RESINATOR]

When using that style front end, the frame brackets and perch will need to be set at 5-7 degrees for the caster. You have no adjustment like the axle brackets with a shackle hanger, so the only adjustment you have is the bar ends. I suggest getting the perch you plan to use then work out how long/far down the Hairpin brackets will need to be.

 

[irishluck]

From a stress analysis perspective, the Speedway brackets offer more lateral force resistance because of the bend at each end, as opposed to both others being flat.

Maybe a bit more expensive, but they would be my choice, and for that reason.

Darlene

Good point

 

[irishluck]

I tried those once and they tend to interfere with other things like steering and engine mounts, remote filter and such. I know you can use these but they were designed for a different type/model of car and mainly 4 bar front/rear applications was stated. But also for radius rods. Also the 5/8 bolt instead of 1/2 inch.

Were they just to long or just how the design was that made them interfere with other things?

 

[irishluck]

When using that style front end, the frame brackets and perch will need to be set at 5-7 degrees for the caster. You have no adjustment like the axle brackets with a shackle hanger, so the only adjustment you have is the bar ends. I suggest getting the perch you plan to use then work out how long/far down the Hairpin brackets will need to be.

Are you a representative for CCR? Im actially using the CCR Tbucket frame plans to build my frame, even though my suspension is different than what was used in the plans.
What exactly do you mean by setting the perch at 5-7 degrees?

 

[RESINATOR]

The Axle will need to be laid back (towards the rear) at the top to get correct tracking. Assuming the frame will be on a downhill rake 2-3 degrees and the axle needs at least 5 degrees, you will need to have the perch higher in the front than the back to pitch the spring and axle back to achieve that. Since your spring, perch, shackles and axle have no adjustment, the whole assembly gets put on an angle. I will find a picture to explain it better.
You can switch out the spring perches for a set of adjustable ones if that's easier to do.
This is the "spring behind" front end style with brackets and shackle hangers, similar to what your doing.

 

[RESINATOR]

Yes, I have been working for CCR for around 40 years.

 

[RESINATOR]

It's a bit tough to see the degree built into these crossmembers in the pictures but you should get the idea I hope. Sorry, most of my pictures have the frames upside down because that's how they get built in the fixtures.

 

[irishluck]

The Axle will need to be laid back (towards the rear) at the top to get correct tracking. Assuming the frame will be on a downhill rake 2-3 degrees and the axle needs at least 5 degrees, you will need to have the perch higher in the front than the back to pitch the spring and axle back to achieve that. Since your spring, perch, shackles and axle have no adjustment, the whole assembly gets put on an angle. I will find a picture to explain it better.
You can switch out the spring perches for a set of adjustable ones if that's easier to do.
This is the "spring behind" front end style with brackets and shackle hangers, similar to what your doing.

View attachment 15938 View attachment 15939

ohhhh okay I understand what your saying, just confused about how to do it still lol But your said this could solve that problem correct? If so then ill prolly just buy these to make that easier.
Forged Adjustable Spring Perches, Polished Stainless

Good to know theres someone in here that is with the company with the plans im using!
If you dont mind me asking, I see some frames with the front leaf on top of the leaf perch and some on the bottom. Is that just a preference or is these a reasoning to that?

Im going to order the leaf perch tonight and the radius arm brackets to weld on.
Ill have to get that adjustable spring perch later on.

 

[irishluck]

oops, didnt see the new post, let me look at these pics and see if I can understand that better on how to do it.

EDIT: Yeah ill prolly just buy those adjustable spring perches to make it easier lol

 

[RPM]

A 3" drop perch and those adjustable spring perches will solve all of your problems. Here is a 3" perch we sell.
3" drop perch T bucket hot rat rod 23 32 coupe roadster | eBay

 

[Neshkoro]

What you're trying to do, Irish Luck, makes it difficult. When CCR, or any other manufacturer, builds a frame, they have jigs and fixtures to hold parts in the correct position or angle. You are trying to build yours on the garage floor (like most of us). You really should have most of your parts (engine, trans, rear end, wheels and tires mocked up or somewhat mounted to get the correct ride height/ stance. Or have enough adjustability to correct anything that needs it. Like caster, drive shaft angle, etc. You really need the weight of everything to preload the springs and suspension to make sure that the parts will not hit or bind on other parts. That's the nice thing about buying a frame from CCR or one of the other suppliers. Yhey have figured all that stuff oiut already. Or, follow a set of good plans.
Just sayin'.

 

[409T]

What you're trying to do, Irish Luck, makes it difficult. When CCR, or any other manufacturer, builds a frame, they have jigs and fixtures to hold parts in the correct position or angle. You are trying to build yours on the garage floor (like most of us). You really should have most of your parts (engine, trans, rear end, wheels and tires mocked up or somewhat mounted to get the correct ride height/ stance. Or have enough adjustability to correct anything that needs it. Like caster, drive shaft angle, etc. You really need the weight of everything to preload the springs and suspension to make sure that the parts will not hit or bind on other parts. That's the nice thing about buying a frame from CCR or one of the other suppliers. Yhey have figured all that stuff oiut already. Or, follow a set of good plans.
Just sayin'.

That's good advice for any build.

 

[irishluck]

What you're trying to do, Irish Luck, makes it difficult. When CCR, or any other manufacturer, builds a frame, they have jigs and fixtures to hold parts in the correct position or angle. You are trying to build yours on the garage floor (like most of us). You really should have most of your parts (engine, trans, rear end, wheels and tires mocked up or somewhat mounted to get the correct ride height/ stance. Or have enough adjustability to correct anything that needs it. Like caster, drive shaft angle, etc. You really need the weight of everything to preload the springs and suspension to make sure that the parts will not hit or bind on other parts. That's the nice thing about buying a frame from CCR or one of the other suppliers. Yhey have figured all that stuff oiut already. Or, follow a set of good plans.
Just sayin'.

Thats a good piont there. I have the motor and trans I just need to go pay my friend and pick it up. I dont have the wheels/tires or axle yet. I still need to figure out which axle I can use.
Ive been following the plans from CCR to build this frame. Im definitly going to swap out those spring perches for adjustable ones so I can have a way to adjust the suspension a little. Last thing I want to do is build this car to low to the ground ha. You all have been very helpful and given great advice for building this car!

 

[RESINATOR]

The spring being on top of the perch is our Style (and we think it looks nicer). It also keeps from having problems with the tie rod clearances when the steering arms are above and behind the front end.

 

[irishluck]

The spring being on top of the perch is our Style (and we think it looks nicer). It also keeps from having problems with the tie rod clearances when the steering arms are above and behind the front end.

View attachment 15945

Ah thank you for that explanation! I guess at this piont I need to get that top perch, the radius arm brackets to weld and my motor so I can start positioning everything.

I appreciate everyones help and advice you have all given to me! Any other advice is much appreciated. Ill get these new parts and keep working on the build and will report back once I have more done and more questions!