Lean out under load?

[Gerry]

There are times in all of our lives where we have to stop what we are doing and admit that we can't do it right. Nobody can know how to do everything. That's why there are specialists in all aspects of life. I can do carpenter work, electric and hang drywall; but, when it comes to the finishing I'd use twice as much mud and three times the time as it takes my brother-in-law who's been a taper for 25 years. We all have to take it to the shop at some time or another.

Oino....take your project to a shop that specializes or is very good with carburetors. In an hour or two, they should have it running as good as it possibly can. If there is a problem thay can't solve, they'll tell you who to take it to. There are just too many variables in play to be resolved on a forum where nobody can see, touch and hear the problem. I've gotten a lot of help here, offered advice too. It's a great forum for learning. But, the members here cannot solve all the issues that we might deal with on our projects. Sometimes, you have to pay for the service of experts. There should be someone near you.

I have been following this thread and can only say that after all the people who (whom in English LOL) have had a go at helping you solve the problem, there seems to be no easy fix in words. I have been in the same position a few times where guys have told me and told me how to get on top of a problem but it never seemed to work out.
The above is VERY good advice. Take it to a shop, explain everything you have checked, and then do the one thing that will stop you from getting a big tab. Listen to what they say and go with their recommendations. Also check with as many people you can for recommendations as to where to go before you take the trip.

Good luck and I am sure when you find out what the problem is you will log that for future reference and be able to pass it on.

Boy will you be HAPPY when this is all sorted out and dont forget to let us all know what it was that caused you so much grief
Gerry

 

[one finger john]

Wouldn't it be something if it was either the balancer (worn rubber and has started to slip) or the timing pointer.

 

[Gerry]

Wouldn't it be something if it was either the balancer (worn rubber and has started to slip) or the timing pointer.

Funny thing is we has a 7 series BMW in the shop recently for a trans vibration problem. Guess what.... the balancer was running like a spinning top on a rough surface. Go figure
Gerry

 

[Mike]

Wouldn't it be something if it was either the balancer (worn rubber and has started to slip) or the timing pointer.

He's never mentioned having problems with hard-starting or engine run-on, so I'm betting the timing is a non-issue. I could be wrong, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it. :nod:

Then again, the horn relay hasn't been ruled out as being at the root of the problem, so...

 

[lkeuten]

I'll add what I found last fall on OINO's engine. First it would start, idle a little and then die. Started tweaking the timing and the idle mix screws and got it to stay running. In gear at tip in it would lean out and backfire. Tweaked the idle mix screws a little more, and a little more, and a little more, and got it to pull. I didn't have a vacuum gauge on it so it was by guess and by golly it did seem to me that I had the mix screws waay out there. No timing tape on the balancer so just did a cursory check on the mechanical and the vacuum advance, the advance's were working and seemed about normal to me. Once we got it to pull well we observed that on tip in we would get a good puff of black smoke out of the exhaust. If I would adjust the idle screws in to eliminate the puff of black it would lean out and backfire at tip in. Now as you all know I am not a Holley guru, but I am dogged and determined. I left the idle mix screws where the car was able to pull itself quite well in the short space of an alley. One thing I regret is not checking float level. I believe that this car will run and run very well it just needs a little more tuning to get it where it needs to be.

 

[lkeuten]

Left turn signal low on fluid?

He's never mentioned having problems with hard-starting or engine run-on, so I'm betting the timing is a non-issue. I could be wrong, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it. :nod:

Then again, the horn relay hasn't been ruled out as being at the root of the problem, so...

 

[lkeuten]

I just looked up some stuff on Holley's website. I think an accelerator pump adjustment can cure this thing

 

[oino]

Wow. so many posts.
Haven't read them all yet.
Thank you so much.

UPDATE:
Fired up the car. Let it heat up. idling at 1500. Didn't change anything yet from the last thing I did yesturday.
connected the timing light and the vac. gauge.
vac. gauge reading 15. hummm ok
Checked the timing and its reading 12*. What the hell.
moved the idle down to 900. Vac reading at just about 15. timing at 12*
Ok this makes no sense.
The last I left it yesturday timing was about 1 1/2 inches past the 12* mark. Now its at 12*
I'm going to shoot my self.

Well outta gas now. I'll get some more in it later on today.

 

[oino]

ok ok back to the basics
Sorry havn't done this yet. Might have done it a few days ago, but no money to.
All this stuff was new. But I did buy it a year ago.
So when I get paid on Thursday. I'll go get all the basics.
Cap, Rotor, Coil, Ignition Control Module, plugs, carb gasket, ect....
I'll just start over.

So hang on. Next day off to work on it won't be till Sunday.

Damn wish it was warmer outside.

 

[one finger john]

How old is the balancer?

 

[one finger john]

And don't spend a dime until you have found the problem.Throwing money at it will not help. Grab the balancer outer ring (it has the timing numbers on it) and with the belt off the pulley try to move the ring either forward or backward. Also just pull the dist. cap and see if the mechanical advance is allowing the dist. rotor to rotate and spring back (Dear God I'm being pulled back in, help me!). WHENEVER YOU CHECK THE TIMING DISCONNECT THE VACUUM ADVANCE. IN FACT, DISCONNECT IT AND FORGET ABOUT IT. Run the vacuum gauge off the manifold vacuum port on the cab. REPEAT - NO VACUUM ADVANCE.

 

[oino]

How old is the balancer?

only over a year. Got a few months before you came and seen it.
The guy who rebuilt my motor said it was good and he cleaned and painted it for me.
But Speedway has a cool Stainless Steel one for only 99.99.
Maybe later.

I'm trying to get it running right before mid Feb.. I'm going to disassemble the car. Paint the chassis and all the metal pieces.
Change this steering, move the wiring in the frame, and damn there was something else to. Just can remember what it was.

 

[oino]

And don't spend a dime until you have found the problem.Throwing money at it will not help. Grab the balancer outer ring (it has the timing numbers on it) and with the belt off the pulley try to move the ring either forward or backward. Also just pull the dist. cap and see if the mechanical advance is allowing the dist. rotor to rotate and spring back (Dear God I'm being pulled back in, help me!). WHENEVER YOU CHECK THE TIMING DISCONNECT THE VACUUM ADVANCE. IN FACT, DISCONNECT IT AND FORGET ABOUT IT. Run the vacuum gauge off the manifold vacuum port on the cab. REPEAT - NO VACUUM ADVANCE.

I know, I know.
I've been checking without the vac. adv. connected.
I'm not that dumb.

 

[putz]

Wow. so many posts.
Haven't read them all yet.
Thank you so much.

UPDATE:
Fired up the car. Let it heat up. idling at 1500. Didn't change anything yet from the last thing I did yesturday.
connected the timing light and the vac. gauge.
vac. gauge reading 15. hummm ok
Checked the timing and its reading 12*. What the hell.
moved the idle down to 900. Vac reading at just about 15. timing at 12*
Ok this makes no sense.
The last I left it yesturday timing was about 1 1/2 inches past the 12* mark. Now its at 12*
I'm going to shoot my self.

Well outta gas now. I'll get some more in it later on today.

OK this sounds a little weird but try this put the balancer on 0 with the distributor cap off see how far the crank moves in degrees before the distributor moves. Just checking the timing chain to see if it has slack in it. You never know.

 

[2old2fast]

Puffs black on acceleration = shooters WAY to big or blown power valve. my $.02 like someone else said, don't throw money at it, it'll just pi** you off more.


dave

 

[oino]

Found out I have to work tomorrow - Saturday.
We're 10 hour shifts now.
I'll get back on this Sunday.

I'll keep you all you posted.

Thank you.

 

[one finger john]

Puffs black on acceleration = shooters WAY to big or blown power valve. my $.02 like someone else said, don't throw money at it, it'll just pi** you off more.


dave

One of Chris' statements was that the carb was purchased new and is a 600 cfm Holley. I would have to assume that it is a vacuum secondary carb. Let us keep that in mind. This should be like a 325 hp street engine (350, no head work, rv cam, low compression, dual plane manifold, 600 cfm Holley). Put the old pv back in (if the new one is blown) and concentrate on the ignition. Also didn't hear the cam number.

 

[one finger john]

One of Chris' statements was that the carb was purchased new and is a 600 cfm Holley. I would have to assume that it is a vacuum secondary carb. Let us keep that in mind. This should be like a 325 hp street engine (350, no head work, rv cam, low compression, dual plane manifold, 600 cfm Holley). Put the old pv back in (if the new one is blown) and concentrate on the ignition. Also didn't hear the cam number.

And ... if this is a recent edition carb it should have the anti blow back ball already installed. Remember that the pv Chris purchased was when he thought he had 9 in. of vacuum @ idle. Now it seems he has 15 in. at idle.

90% of your carb problems are in the ignition

 

[Mike]

You got to know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em
Know when to walk away and know when to run

 

[Screaming Metal]

Yep.... :run: