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Low Slung T

On another note of the same topic. I may be able to put my tie rod above and behind the axle. Is there any rule of thumb that says the minimum distance it should mount from the axle centerline? I know the closer it is, the more steering you’ll get with less steering wheel movement.
 
The tie rod arm length doesn't change the the steering ratio per se. The pitman arm and the steering arm length do. You don't want the tie rod arms to short, it might add to the steering effort, usually see them the same length as the steering arm.
 
On another note of the same topic. I may be able to put my tie rod above and behind the axle. Is there any rule of thumb that says the minimum distance it should mount from the axle centerline? I know the closer it is, the more steering you’ll get with less steering wheel movement.

You can run the tie rod in front of the radiator and on top of the frame and axle. Most bolt on arms as you have are 5 to 6 inches long where the tie rod bolts onto. You just have to have enough room for the tie rod to fit in front of the radiator and not hit anything wheel lock to wheel lock.That is what these are for. Also helps with bump steer and Ackerman

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The drag link should try to run at the same level(angle) as the radius rods. You may try to reverse the Pittman arm to the up position to help with the situation, and you may have to get another steering box if it rotates backwards after you change the Pittman arm.

Look at this from CCR

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Look at drag link and radius arms.
 
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I bent my bracket to match the angle of the axle. It did drop the drag link mounting point some more but not quit enough for it to run parallel with the radius arms. Surprisingly, my angle finder says there is only a 4 degree difference between the two.
I could give the bracket a little more bend and get it pretty close or I could also raise the steering box on the frame a bit.
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My steering arms have the tie rod mounting about 7.25” from the center of the axle. If I move that back to 5” I’ll be pretty close to clearing with it above and behind the axle. I’ll have to mess around with some templates.
 
Put the rod from the steering box to the front wheel in from the underside of the wheel mount. With the nut on top of the bracket and I think you will almost be level. I have seen many of them like that with no problems, at least they would tell me about. I know that is not the way most are done but I think it will make your stuff work now...….

Mike
 
LincolnuT- if I did that, I could use a rod end like pictured here that would give me a little extra drop of the arm.
If I do go that route, I might add a bit onto the steering arm to clam shell the rod end.
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I thought the same as LincolnT, mount the rod end underneath the steering arm and you pretty well have it sorted. Keep up the good work, love watching all the current builds coming along.
Regards,
 
Be sure to use a large safety washer. That end should work great.....
 
LincolnuT - by large safety washer, do you mean one big enough that it won’t go through the center of the housing if the rod end fails and the ball comes out of it?
 
That is right. Especially if it is mounted upside down.....5/8 bolt should have one at least 1.5 inches across, with a 5/8 hole....like the ones you have on your tie rod ends.
 
Those safety washer look a lot nicer. I’ll probably just order enough for all my rod ends that could use them. Maybe I’ll have enough to get for shipping from summit!
 
This is my steering arm...DSC_0375.JPG It clears the spring perch with the wheels off the ground.
 
Fuel system question for you guys/gals.
I’m planning out my fuel lines/system. Planning on the following.
Tank > ni/co hard line > pre filter > AN hose > pump > AN hose > post filter > ni/co hard line to the front > AN hose up to my fuel rail.
My question is, how much length do you need with AN hose between my filters and pump to make it flexible enough for future removal of the components? How close can I put these parts together without regretting it later on!
 
No pictures but I also got that other heim in that I mentioned earlier. Mounted the drag link to the bottom of my steering arm and it got it within 2 degrees of level with my radius rod. Probably going to try it out like that and see how it handles. If needed I’ll adjust my steering arm some more or move the steering box a bit higher.
 
While it looks fairly clean, simple, and unobtrusive, . . . .
If that support is made from rod or tubing welded to flat washers, (as it appears to be) I'd give odds that the lower weld is going to drag you back to the drawing board once you start driving the car.
 
Island girl - It’s not made from flat washers. I made tabs that have a piece that slides into the tube. Crimped the tube, slid the part that looks like washers into the tube then welded it.
 

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