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My T Bucket

Thank you sir! I appreciate it!

September 2011


After what seemed like an eternity in finding a suitable block to build, the next question was where to have it machined. Maybe I was just out of the loop, but it felt like the number of quality machine shops had dwindled a bit. Not needing anything bored or decked for a loooong time though, there really hadn't been much need to know. I started asking around, calling a few of the performance shops. Well, ok. The one performance shop. In addition, I posed the question to some of my gearhead friends and one name kept coming up more than others, and one that I had heard about many moons ago. Turns out, the air-cooled VW shop in KC has a machine shop with a dude that knows a thing or two about American V8s. Went in to talk to him and there were some nice projects going on. Big block chevy for a '70 Chevelle, Flathead....lots of goodies. Dropped all my parts off and waited for the phone call. Couple weeks later it was ready.

.030" over and clean enough to eat off of. Cam is a Comp X-treme Energy hydraulic flat tappet (old school-like). 1300-5600 rpm range with a .493/.500 lift, 262/270 duration. It's very similar in spec to the Motorsport E303 cam that most of the 5.0 Mustang guys run. I think it'll have enough of a lope to let you know it's alive.
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Keith Black Hyperuetectic pistons with a lower 8.5 to 1 compression for future blower installation. Not building a race motor, so I think I can squeak by with less of a squeeze for now. Matching Keith Black Moly rings.
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Scat 3.25" stroker crank puts the cubes at 331 inches. No machining required on the block. Drop-in horsepower, LOL. Comp double roller, Scat matched set 5.4" I-beam rods w/ARP bolts everywhere. Everything balanced as an assembly from the balancer to the flywheel, like it should be.
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Big holes in that crank, but sometimes the lower end stuff needs a little extra time. Won't know til the key is turned of course, but I have warm fuzzies instead of butterflies most of the time when I look at the pictures.

Fel-pro gaskets....
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A set of GT40 heads from an F150 Lightning top off the long block. Primer coat done. Waiting for paint....
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I had thought about the engine color for a looong time. Had wanted a light blue or sky blue. Turns out one of the Ford blues is just ticket. It's a little darker in person, but it works in keeping with trying to keep the all-Ford theme.
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I had some issues with the Comp cam and timing set. Having worked in the parts department at a Ford dealer for 14+ years now, I'm hip to some of the funny business that the Blue Oval folks thought were good ideas. I thought a 302 would be a simple build. Maybe not quite as simple as a 350, but close. It wasn't. One piece fuel pump eccentrics, 2 piece fuel pump eccentrics, 3 or 4 different timing pointers, water pump inlet on the left, water pump inlet on the right......ungh. After I put the cam, crank, rods and pistons in, the timing set was next. Problem was that the cam timing gear pin wouldn't engage the gear far enough. Barely a sliver. Found there are 2 different length cam pins from Comp. Problem was, I was already using the longer pin. Spent a week researching everything I could, talked to the guys at Comp and everyone was at a loss as to what my problem was. One night it hit me. Check the old cam. Since this engine was complete, and it all came apart without problems, then I should be able to use the old parts as a baseline. Luckily, I hadn't thrown anything out. Turns out the new Comp cam had its hole machined a bit deeper than stock. Crap. Rather than deal with taking it out and dealing with Comp, I simply welded onto the end of the pin to increase its length about an 1/8th of an inch. Machined the end so it fit the deep end of the hole and I now had the pin fully engaging the timing gear. Crazy.
 
You didn't think I'd tease you with just the back of the block and not deliver the rest, did you?

December 2011

You can see in the fuel pump lever hole the darker blue I was toying with.
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Scorpion 1.6 ratio roller (new technology when needed) rockers. Made in the USA. And they're blue!
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January 2012

Next was something that'd I'd been dreaming of for more than 10 years. The Cobra oil pan. Specifically, a black wrinkle finish Cobra oil pan with the "COBRA" and fins machined off. I'd used the wrinkle paint a couple times back before I was married and still living at home building model cars. The wrinkle finish works well to simulate vinyl tops. The stuff can be temperamental, but most of the time it works pretty good.

The wrinkle......
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....went on great and turned out awesome!
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It was tough to wait the day or two for the paint to cure before the final touch: sanding off the fins and Cobra.
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If you play with a Barbie doll, you have to put shoes on her. If you play with G.I. Joe, you have to put a gun on him.

It looks good with shoes and a gun, eh?
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Everything was coming together just as planned.
 
I hear you about building Fords. The 302 is such an awesome motor for such a small package, but they can be a challenge. Like you said, water pump direction, 28 oz. imbalance, 50 oz imbalance, etc. So many changes through the years. You can really get into a mess if you don't know what you're doing. Ask me how I know! lol It looks great though.
 
I know what you're thinking and yes, that is my family room.

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I need my garage for complete vehicles, LOL. I would move the T project into the garage for parts of the winter to do fab work where I needed the whole thing set up, and hopefully the car that usually resided in that spot in the garage would only have to sit out for a couple weeks. Then, I'd break it all down and move it back into the family room, one piece at a time, just like a ship in a bottle.

As far as a current update goes, I moved the pile of pieces to the garage a year ago for the last time.

I know what you're thinking and yes, that is my family room.

myTproject135.jpg


I need my garage for complete vehicles, LOL. I would move the T project into the garage for parts of the winter to do fab work where I needed the whole thing set up, and hopefully the car that usually resided in that spot in the garage would only have to sit out for a couple weeks. Then, I'd break it all down and move it back into the family room, one piece at a time, just like a ship in a bottle.

As far as a current update goes, I moved the pile of pieces to the garage a year ago for the last time.
 
When I first decided to try building a T Bucket I came across this build on another site. It was my first look into all the planning and decisions that had to go into a build. It also showed me that making one decision almost always forced another. Great build story and thanks for posting.
 
You mean mid-mount? Ebay. Cheapest one I could find. Search for "sbf alternator bracket" and there'll be a bunch on there. I made the spacers for the top rear of the alternator to cylinder head. I have pics, but I'm at work. I'll post one up asap.
 
Here you go, Mark.

Pretty standard early SBF style brackets.







You can see the bare upper bolt where you'd have to make a spacer between the alternator and cylinder head.

 
Yes, mid mount! sorry. Fat fingers lol. I will be searching the net today. Thank you for your help!

Mark
 
January 2012

The minute after getting the longblock done, it was time for the transmission. The extra transmission I picked up the summer before looked great on teardown. The good feeling I had panned out! Just a basic rebuild, no shift kit but all new clutches, steels, bands, etc. Had to spring for a mac daddy input shaft though as the 2 or 3 I had gave me that uneasy feeling I was trying to avoid. A B&M Holeshot 3000 stall converter and all that's left is a coat of paint.....



....a deep B&M pan painted wrinkle finish black with the fins and logo done up just like the Cobra oil pan.....



.....and it looks like a million bucks!

 
March 2012

Got a wild hair and had a decent day weather-wise, so I borrowed a hoist from a friend (as well as the friend, LOL) and decided to marry the engine and transmission and then bless them with the honeymoon suite (frame).



You can study the parts spec sheets, the websites, message boards and measure 3, 4, or 5 times. But there are still things that you don't know if they'll fit until you try them. I had to swap the bellhousing before I painted the transmission. Ended up using the bellhousing off the first transmission. Ford has a couple different tooth counts for the SBF and the 2nd trans had the smaller tooth count housing. I had to wait to fit the rear block plate until it was off the engine stand as well as mounting the flywheel. What I mean is, trans from A, bellhousing from B, converter from C, flywheel from D, block plate from E and etc. You hope it'll all go together without issue, but having already fought cam issues and stuff, I wasn't overly optimistic. Sooooo, I stabbed the converter and measured the inset in the housing, measured the flywheel spacing off the block and block plate....



....and they went together perfectly!



Resting comfortably in the frame.



Threw some sparkles on for some pics.



"COBRA" peeking through.



Transmission pan looks just as I had planned.



Pushed it outside to get a good look at it. And I like it!



Starting to think about the rear axle and brake lines, but getting the radiator mounted is the next main piece to this puzzle.

 
I like the setback look. The "T" I just completed a restoration on has a setback engine/trans . I think it looks neat. Course that is my opinion only.

Next "T" I build will have a Ford in it. I like to paint my engines the same as the major color of the Hot Rod.

Your project looks great....
 
I've set back and have watched this for some time now....I love the way this car sits! I've used yours alot for just sitting back, looking at it. Its one of my screensavers....hahaha....
Great Job, and this is what I mean by having the will to have a HotRod! Its taken a few years but You've stuck to the Vision! Cudos ta Ya, dude! Can't wait till its drivable!
 
Stop it! I'm blushing over here. :rolleyes:

Seriously though, I appreciate it. Knowing there are others out there that see what I do, just reassures I'm on the right track.

By the end of April, 2012, the engine and transmission were both pretty much done and in the frame.









Even though the engine and transmission were done, there was still a long list of things needed to get the engine fired up. Fuel line, plug wires, electrical, trans lines, radiator, etc. THE RADIATOR!!!! The next big piece to the puzzle was the radiator.

April/May 2012

I needed to mount the radiator in the frame. I didn't trust the mounting tabs on the Walker radiator to support that big heavy thing. I'd seen where a couple guys had reinforced the tab itself by boxing it it, but I didn't trust myself (or anyone else for that matter) to tackle that job and possibly ruin the radiator at the same time. No, I wanted the radiator to have its own mount, or support system underneath. I came up with a cup or molded crossmember to closely follow the contours of the Walker. With some wide industrial rubber strip as insulators to give it cushion and not rub a hole from metal to metal contact.





You can just see the pattern on the box under the radiator that I used to make the pieces that made up the mount.






Double checking the measurement before trimming it to fit.


No pics of my horrible weld job on the installation of the crossmember, LOL. I'll be redoing it before paint. There's just enough room between the mount and the frame to get a wrench in there on a nut for a bolt to run through the shell, radiator, rubber strip and the mount.
 
Now that the radiator had a place to call home, I needed to figure out how to mount the electric fan. There was no way I was going to run those plastic zip tie contraptions through the beautiful core of my Walker Z radiator. No way, no how! The problem was that there were only 2 small mounting tabs near the top tank to mount something. I complicated it a little bit, by buying the largest fan I could find that would still fit within the silhouette of the core. I thought about running a shroud and mechanical blade off the water pump, but If I was going to put a blower on down the road, I'd need to switch to an electric fan after ditching the pump driven blade. Might as well start with what I'll eventually need. Going with the biggest size could find would hopefully negate the need for a shroud due to the fan covering most of the core.

Ended up with a Derale 17" 2400 cfm, 10 blade, 2 speed. Plus the Derale fan has a cool mounting setup that I thought I could use to my advantage. They have a proprietary adjustable mount that would normally work perfect if you had a way of attaching their mounting tabs to a radiator or rad support. No real way to do it to the walker, so after thinking about it for a while, I came up with my own solution.

October 2012

Picture an art deco style, or safety cage, similar to what you'd see in old diners, or '30s coach builders where there is a grill or wire framework. The wire framework would be what catches your eye and not the ugly black plastic hulk hanging out in the open. Yeah, something like that. Now, how to make it. Hmmmm.......

I took an old mag wheel, and clamped some round bar to it using a C-clamp. I bent the round bar all the way around the wheel. The wheel was slightly smaller in diameter than the outside of the fan housing. This allowed the steel to spring back slightly from the smaller diameter and end up being pretty much perfect for a "shroud" outside of the electric fan shroud.





This next picture shows the Derale mounts that I was going to try and make some tabs coming off my big grill shroud idea.



I was still mulling over the mount idea, but for sure knew I wanted the grill looking thing as the basis for however I figured out the mounting of the fan, so, it was time to get busy.

I did it in 2 halves, then joined each half with a top section to tie the sides together and a bottom section to do the same, but also create a platform from which to mount the mount (LOL) and support the fan/mount assembly.



There are 4 of these round pockets where the fan mounting ears would need clearance and to somehow mount to. Maybe.







2nd level......





3rd ring is done and time for a test fit...

 
Very nice workmanship there. It's such a shame that people don't notice all the hidden work in the finished product, eh?
 

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