pinion and shock mounting

[2old2fast]

If you don't mind doing the fab work , the CCR rear crossmember is a far superior design IMO.
Since we got a new 'puter [win.8.1] neither my wife or I have been able to figure out how to download pics, .... I've left the PC to her as I can communicate & surf w/ the tablet I got for XMAS [thanks dear} to bad you can't find a job shop that would have drop-offs , built /fabbed many things for my car w/dropoffs.
dave

 

[Jeff]

I seen your ride yesterday. It's a good looking machine. Wish I was at that point so I could get in spin once and a while. I don't know of much in the way of shops around here. They probably exist if you knew who or where. We got a couple of drag strips in the area. I do have a fab machine shop not that far away but it gets expensive. That's who is going to ,ake up my drive shaft. One of the guys I work with knows the head there. I can get the tool guys at work to help out once and a while. That's how I got the new holes milled, but I hate asking them, They are at work you know same as I. Did you fab the frame on your car? it sits just about the way I want mine. I don't care much for the flat look, I like the slight raked out look but not up in the clouds either. I seen some that make me wonder how they stay in the seat. Must be the Gsssssssssssssssssssss they are pulling. LOL No they look good too but not my favorite look. Well better get to bed here. Won't get nothing done tomorrow.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[2old2fast]

Thanks for the compliment . Yes ,I built virtually everything on my car including paint & w/ the help of an old friend , the upholstery...
'rubber rake" gives me about 2"... 4" drop axle , so +- 6" of rake
The centerlines of both the frt & rear are close to being in line w/the center of the frame rails...
hope this helps ..
dave

 

[Jeff]

It would have been easier I think for me to have started a new frame in some ways but I got this one with the body and top plus a few other extras. Took the rear out of a rat rod that I came across. Might build it if I get this one done. Wife needs one too. I looked at the ccr cross member I like it. was planing to try to k member mine but might be better to change cross member. Do you know which set of plans it is on? Well go the body set on. Engine is slightly over 9 1/2 inches out. I am going to call it 9 1/2 to allow room for a piece of stainless on the firewall. So I need to move it back at lease 7 1/2 inches right? that would be two inches out from firewall. But will have to move the 4 link back also. right now I have 15 inch drive shaft center of u-joint to center of u-joint. If i don't I will only have about 7 1/2 inches. I got some photos. Take a look if you don't mind. and let me know what you think? I also think I will have to drop the 4 link back down 1 inch. The bars are tight on the body and need a little room for travel? rubber Body mounts should raise the body an inch or so right? then it may not be a big deal. I an shif the body forward an inch or so if need be also. Thank you, Jeff

 

[old round fart]

I agree with the motor needing setback. Get the heads 3 or 4" ahead of the firewall will be about right.

 

[EX JUNK]

I agree with the motor needing setback. Get the heads 3 or 4" ahead of the firewall will be about right.

I just went to the garage and checked the measurements on my car. From the rear of the driver side head to the firewall I measure 4 1/4" and from the back of the HEI distributor cap I measure 2".


Oops! I just took a closer look at your mock up block and noticed that it seems to be a Ford. In that case, you don't have to worry about distributor clearance. I checked and found that the very rear of my block where it meets the transmission is 2" from the firewall. I hope that this gives you a better idea as to where you should mount your engine in relation to the firewall.
Jim

 

[2old2fast]

I'll dig out my old set of TP plans tonitr & try toge you some measurments to compare...dave

 

[Jeff]

That would be great Dave. I haven't took a firewall to head measurement yet but 6 inches is about all I can get setting the engine back without moving the steering box. I will get a to head measurement in a bit. I am about 3 to 3 1/2 off the firewall at the engine trans mating line. There is room to get the trans bolts out if one wanted too. Would leave about a 9 inch drive shaft as is. Engine mounts are about 1/4 inch short though. will have to either add a piece of plate or get some thing else. I like the mounts so will probably add the plate or have it added. I don't have any at he moment. Here are some new pics after moving it back. I need to get a block to end of the pump measurement for SBF I got it some where on this puter but now where? HMMMMMMMMMMMMM Ran across it while researching and don't remember what I did with it but I know I saved it. Car looks good Ex junk Rear is farther back than mine is for sure. Tires are up past the body on mine.
Thanks, dave and jim

 

[Jeff]

Forgot the pics. here they are.
Jeff

 

[Jeff]

I got some measurements to run by you all. From the head to the firewall as it sat in the last photos was 3 inches. I can move the body forward an inch to cut it to two inches or I can move both the engine and the body to end up with three inches between the body and firewall and a ten inch drive shaft. The wheel to body arrangement looks better with it moved forward an inch. I could get a little more maybe 1/2 inch but don't want to push it might need a little wigle room for mounting.

thanks,
Jeff

 

[choppedtop]

Jeff, looks like you have plenty of room up front. I think that (if it was mine) I would move every thing forward. This would get the rear wheel more behind the body. If you look at Jims (ExJunk) has the look that I am talking about. If you have a tire to set at the rear, take a good side shot and post it. Maybe I am not seeing the "look" from the photos you posted. BTW, not being critical, just my thought.
Lee:

 

[2old2fast]

From the TP plans : overall frame length =105 1/8 ..approx. 25 1/2 to frt cross member[motor mounts]...63 to rear motor mount...9 from the rear of frame to center of rear shock mount...7 1/2 frt to rad support tabs ...52 3/4 ,frt of frame to brake pedal pivot..frt frame rail to center of kick-up cut ,87 5/16..
need more , ask.....
dave
rear motor mount is on plan set 5 in my old CCR planset....

 

[one finger john]

There is a small cut out on the pick up box. Center the rear axle in that cut out.
I would mount your rear tires on the rims and attach them to the rear axle.
You will get a better perspective of the proportions if you can get it outside, stand back, and view the whole car from a distance. If you have a ten foot car, stand back at least ten feet.
I'd move the tires & axle back to the cut out if only to lessen being pelted by debris thrown up by the tires.
Also, are you going to sit in the car or sit on the car. Redoing the floor will also require repositioning the body/frame/ link again.
As it sits, the body should be moved forward about 6 in. or so.

John

 

[Jeff]

Dave here is a rough drawing of what I have. The only thing that I can say matches close to the measurements is the brake pivot. I have 89 1/4 on the front section. you have 87 5/16 if that 7 is a 9 it' probably ok. otherwise it's all different. I got alot of room in front of the engine as it sits. Which is good I still need the timing cover and water pump which is around 8 1/4 to the end of the hub on the water pump and leaves about 3 inches in front of that to the radiator mount tabs.

John take a look at the photos this is how it sits now. I might have to move the axle back for drive shaft length. I got 9 inch as it sits.

 

[Jeff]

here is the drawing

 

[2old2fast]

I didn't follow TP's plans , only used them as a rough guide.... my rear is set back a bit further, driveshaft IIRC is 13 1/2"...as long as you get the proportions the way you want , it really doesn't matter what the exact dim. are .... The TP plans were,at best, convoluted...you had to build to their exact specs to get overall placements & dimensions, kind of a f&*@$#d up way of doing things ..dave

 

[2old2fast]

this might help w/the body placement...plans call for 4 3/16" -center of steering shaft to inside of firewall...
dave

 

[Jeff]

Thanks Dave I will check steering shaft to firewall. It is probably close as the brake pivot is right on the money of the measurement you gave. I only have about 1/2 inch to move the body forward it hits the bed in the rear. I was trying to save a little for for final adjustment if needed when I set it on for good though. I did raise the front of the body 3/4 inch though to even up the channel front to rear on the frame. I am going to have to either raise the body or lower the 4 link to obtain suspention movement room. Right now it's 1/4 or less inch from the body. I am thinking I need at least an inch of travel up. What is your opinion on travel. 165 rate springs. Then the bump stops which I need to get or make yet.
Thanks, Jeff

 

[2old2fast]

I have 150# springs & bump stops 2 1/2" above the rearend housing .... if I hit BIG bumps it bottoms out on the stops .... most "normal" road surface, no problem..
Take a couple pics from the rear showing where your interference is...
you mean the floor was put in crooked ??
dave

 

[choppedtop]

The sedan in my avatar weighs 1224 pounds in the rear, and I am running 150 springs at about 30 degree angle with no problems. Have 3" between tire and fender well, and never bottom out.
Lee