After careful planning, I ordered my spirit frame with power brakes without thinking that my engine only sucks about 9-10" of vacuum. My brakes work, it seems a little harder then it should to be able to lock up the tire and when I shut the engine down, the brake pedal will not return all the way back, leaving the brake lights on. So I want to convert from power to manual brakes.
The frame is already powder coated and the brake lines are ran and and a hole is cut in the floor boards etc etc, in other words the car is finished. This makes it a little harder due to eliminating welding a new bracket onto the frame and being done with it. My plan is to build a bracket that bolts in place of the existing power booster so the master cylinder stays in the same location. I will also have to extend the pedal push rod.
I am looking for ideas on how to make this bracket. Right now my ideas are:
1. Weld a 5" cube with angle iron(try to make it look a little fancy), drill the holes on one side to the same bolt pattern of the booster and drill the M/C bolt pattern on the other side.
2. If I can get access to a lathe, machine out a 5" Dia piece of aluminum and drill and tap the bolt patterns on each side and bore a hole down the middle
3. Drill the M/C bolt pattern on the existing frame bracket and run two 6" long bolts through it with 5" long steal spacers (maybe 1/2" od with 3/8" id) to put the M/C in the correct location. This would be the easiest solution but I'm not sure if it would be strong enough. I can add a plate between the spacers and M/C to help support the mounting area of the M/C.
What do you think?
Also, I'm shopping around for the best M/C to use. I see a 75-77 mustang manual master cylinder is popular, any other suggestions? I was thinking about using a mopar one that has the screw tops to make it easier to fill instead of trying to get a screw driver between the body and top of M/C to pop the top. I'v heard the bore size on most of them is 1 1/32" to 1 1/16" depending on what car they came out of, which I don't think should be to bad to press manually (my pedal ratio is 6:1). I am unsure though if the piston has the deep hole in it for the push rod or if its shallow for the power booster. Anyone have any experience using the mopar M/C's?
Heres a wilwood one:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-Tandem-Master-Cylinder,1378.html
I also found a booster conversion at speedway, but I would have to stack 5 of them to get the correct length and that would be a little to $$$$ and its more fun to just make my own!
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Power-Brake-Booster-Conversion-Plate,6207.html
I should also add that the bucket has disc in the front and drums in the rear
The frame is already powder coated and the brake lines are ran and and a hole is cut in the floor boards etc etc, in other words the car is finished. This makes it a little harder due to eliminating welding a new bracket onto the frame and being done with it. My plan is to build a bracket that bolts in place of the existing power booster so the master cylinder stays in the same location. I will also have to extend the pedal push rod.
I am looking for ideas on how to make this bracket. Right now my ideas are:
1. Weld a 5" cube with angle iron(try to make it look a little fancy), drill the holes on one side to the same bolt pattern of the booster and drill the M/C bolt pattern on the other side.
2. If I can get access to a lathe, machine out a 5" Dia piece of aluminum and drill and tap the bolt patterns on each side and bore a hole down the middle
3. Drill the M/C bolt pattern on the existing frame bracket and run two 6" long bolts through it with 5" long steal spacers (maybe 1/2" od with 3/8" id) to put the M/C in the correct location. This would be the easiest solution but I'm not sure if it would be strong enough. I can add a plate between the spacers and M/C to help support the mounting area of the M/C.
What do you think?
Also, I'm shopping around for the best M/C to use. I see a 75-77 mustang manual master cylinder is popular, any other suggestions? I was thinking about using a mopar one that has the screw tops to make it easier to fill instead of trying to get a screw driver between the body and top of M/C to pop the top. I'v heard the bore size on most of them is 1 1/32" to 1 1/16" depending on what car they came out of, which I don't think should be to bad to press manually (my pedal ratio is 6:1). I am unsure though if the piston has the deep hole in it for the push rod or if its shallow for the power booster. Anyone have any experience using the mopar M/C's?
Heres a wilwood one:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-Tandem-Master-Cylinder,1378.html
I also found a booster conversion at speedway, but I would have to stack 5 of them to get the correct length and that would be a little to $$$$ and its more fun to just make my own!
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Power-Brake-Booster-Conversion-Plate,6207.html
I should also add that the bucket has disc in the front and drums in the rear
