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Powerglide Woes

After I got the reverse working, the hi gear would start slipping after about a quarter of a mile, or trans fluid warmed a bit. Another tear down. Found the front ring on the front pump was broken. My fault. Trans works great now. BUT, the engine with less than forty miles on it decided to start knocking. Pulled the pan, and found all rod and main bearings gone, along with the crank. I think maybe the guy that rebuilt it didn't resize the rods for roundness. picking up a new long block Monday. Tuesday should be back on the road again. Oh well, I need something to do any way. I hope SSI gives me a raise next week, ya right.
Happy 4th, Lee

Choppedtop,
I was heading out of town last weekend and lost second gear. Limped it back home and pulled the trans. I am also running a powerglide. After tear down found a few issues. Reverse pressure plate cracked in 5 spots, forward clutch pack toasted and seals hard as my head. Also found that there was no pin or plunger for the modulator. Hoping you can help out. I have been searching the net and have found nothing in reference to it. I have seen pictures, but, no place that you can order them through, or even a size. Wondering if a roll pin would work, but not sure on the length.
 
Reminds me of my younger days in the UK when V8s were just a dream.... V Cool.
 
If that is a p/g you should only have low and high, and reverse. No second gear. Also, does you p/g have a rear pump? I'm thinking you could buy a old p/g and just use the plunger and pin, a whole lot less that a valve body. Finding one may be a problem. I will check with some of the club members to see if maybe someone may have one. Yours is an aluminum case p/g I assume.
 
I have an aluminum Power Glide as well that needs a tear down and rebuild.
Do you guys have any manuals, or data sheets, even pictures with exploded views, or a parts list ?
These things are getting pretty long in the tooth, I am not sure my local transmission guy will know what's right so I was planning on doing it myself.
The other thing I was thinking of, not sure if any of you guys have gone down this road, but I have read that you can modify it for a Turbo 350 input shaft, this gives you allot more options (and cheaper options) for the Torque Converter.
Has anyone done that ?
 
They are not to difficult to rebuild. I think there was only one special tool needed, and I made one. Pretty simple to make. There are some pretty good videos on Utube for rebuilding. Take pictures of bottom after you remove the pan. Just pay attention, and take lots of photos. I didn't so I did run into a coupe of things I had to figure out, and go back to the videos. I think I downloaded some manual pages. Maybe I still have them and could email them to you. Mine had rear pump, does yours Type in How To Rebuild Powerglides on Goggle. Lots of videos. I found the manual pages that I saved. pm me your email and I will send you the file.
 
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I have an aluminum Power Glide as well that needs a tear down and rebuild.
Do you guys have any manuals, or data sheets, even pictures with exploded views, or a parts list ?
These things are getting pretty long in the tooth, I am not sure my local transmission guy will know what's right so I was planning on doing it myself.
The other thing I was thinking of, not sure if any of you guys have gone down this road, but I have read that you can modify it for a Turbo 350 input shaft, this gives you allot more options (and cheaper options) for the Torque Converter.
Has anyone done that ?

Here is a clean diagram that I pulled off the internet. There is a book also available for download title is "Powerglide transmission handbook" by Carl Munroe. There are several different upgrades and updates you can do to a PG depending on what you are after. I got as decent rebuild kit that has everything I needed minus a couple hard parts that I needed for $170.
 

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If that is a p/g you should only have low and high, and reverse. No second gear. Also, does you p/g have a rear pump? I'm thinking you could buy a old p/g and just use the plunger and pin, a whole lot less that a valve body. Finding one may be a problem. I will check with some of the club members to see if maybe someone may have one. Yours is an aluminum case p/g I assume.

Yes, it is an aluminum PG by second guess I was referring to low as first and high as second. Yes, rear pump also.....what a pain in the butt that was. I had a heck of a time removing the output shaft (due to the rear pump drive nail). Looking for the piece in the attachment referred to as a plunger. I cannot located anywhere on the web. Seems strange.....I may surf a couple salvage yards this weekend see if they have some PG laying around I can pilfer.
 

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P/G's are still used a lot in racing. Find some local racers and they should have some good info.
 
To show how good Glides are. My brother in law runs a top sportsman Corvette. It had the $10,000 Lenco in it, all air shifted off the computer. Air clutch, just the best money could buy. He could not get the car to run consistent and it wasn't as fast as it should have been. The Vette has a 710 big block Chevy in naturally aspirated and makes 1600 hp on the dyno. Any way took out all the Lenco stuff a put in a Glide car picked up several tenths of a second and about 5 mph.

It runs the quarter mile in 7 seconds flat at 198 MPH, so he is happy about it.
 
Ya, that "nail" got me also. I will beat the bushes around here to see what I can find.

Choppedtop,
Thanks, but I contacted Brian Swayne and he gave me the dimensions of the pin/plunger. I'll be able to find something to work from that. For anyone that may be in the same boat as I am because these plungers are hard to come by......dimensions are 7/32 x 1" long. However, that depends on what modulator valve you have in your valve body. Some are long enough that you do not need the plunger, earlier ones '62 call for the plunger.
 
What about upgrades, like switching out the input shaft, and changing out the clutch plates, or a manual modulator (not sure if its modulator). ? ?
 
What about upgrades, like switching out the input shaft, and changing out the clutch plates, or a manual modulator (not sure if its modulator). ? ?

Nope, just rebuilt it as is. First transmission for me and did not want to go past my comfort zone, and besides wanted to stay on the cheap as I have sunk quite a bit on this project (the car) this year. I did the rebuild for $213 and it is up and running good now. I replaced both sets of springs, the rear pressure plate and a rebuild kit which included the gaskets, friction plates, bearing/bushings and seals. The one mistake I made was missed sticking the manual valve when installing the valve body. So, once installed, had to drain it, drop the pan and loosen the valve body, then slip the manual valve under the shift lever and tighten everything back up.
 
I was planning on running a B&M pro ratchet shifter and shifting manually.
Is that what the manual valve body is for ?
 

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