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Project Blue Bird

Discussion in 'Project Plans & Updates' started by TrueBlue, Jun 17, 2020.

  1. fletcherson

    fletcherson
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    I’m assuming you are referring to a adjustable proportioning valve. Typically you have more fluid directed to the front brakes by master cylinder design, so it would seem to be logical to be able to adjust that variable to obtain balance on light cars. I chose to install it that way on mine for that reason plus having narrow front tires. I didn’t want the fronts turning into skis. I’m sure there are numerous other variables that could figure in depending on your particular situation like master cylinder selection, brake type, caliper or wheel cylinder size, car weight, you get the idea.
     
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  2. Spanky

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    Re: prop valve . . . put mine in rear. Theory: I don't want to decrease brake pressure on my front brakes at all! Rears . . . ? ok
    That's the way I look at it. Seems to work for me. I was locking up the rears without it anyway, not the fronts. o_O

    PS - Nice detail with Cadillac logo on the fuel tank hold-down straps! :thumbsup:
     
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  3. choppedtop

    choppedtop
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    On my sedan, I put the valve on the rear, because of heavier weight. On my roadster, on the front for much lighter weight. Both seem to do their job.
     
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  4. Gerry

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    In my case its a balance bar.

    brake lines (3) [640x480] (2015_11_13 11_07_31 UTC).JPG
     
  5. TrueBlue

    TrueBlue
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    Put in a little work today..weld, grind. Weld, grind…weld, grind..you get the idea BCB0D2AF-8C5B-437F-9F77-A4F646CCA6DE.jpeg
     
  6. choppinczech

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    Nice!

    Wait a minute... it's a Monday. Are you retired?
     
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  7. guilld

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    Nice job radius rods look great.
     
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  8. Spanky

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    Really a great look! What did you use to make the gusset holes progressively larger/smaller?
     
  9. PotvinGuy

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    My prop valve is in the rear, but I'm not sure we need prop valves at all. I've turned mine from stop-to-stop and can't tell any difference in braking. We have such light cars and big tires, and drive on dry streets at moderate speeds that braking is not a big deal. I think the idea of a prop valve is for both ends to lock up simultaneously, but I've never noticed either end of my car locking up. If you do have one, you might test it by driving on wet pavement and noting when each end locks up as you apply the brakes...I guess. Other opinions or real life answers most welcome.
     
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  10. Spanky

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    On mine, the rears would lock up on dry pavement (disc front, drum rear). So the prop valve in the rear circuit definitely helped me achieve a balance. Now it stops just fine, and if I really stomp on it, the fronts will lock up.
     
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  11. TrueBlue

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    I wish . I’m an “artist” by trade..so my work schedule is jacked up anyway
     
  12. TrueBlue

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    A buddy of mine has a plasma table. He designed it in CAD and cut the plates for me.
     
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  13. Rip VW

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    My T will have Disk both front and back and I planned on using a restriction valve on the rears only. I thought about a standard front rear proportioning valve but I don't think it is necessary I feel the rear is the lightest so I may have to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes to keep them from locking..:cool:
     
  14. Gerry

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    Do it on grass, wet or dry. That way you dont flat spot the tyres or scrub them in one place.
     
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  15. TrueBlue

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    Put in some sweat today. Got the front brakes plumbed. Still gotta Attach them to the frame. Figuring out the fittings, T’s, and elbows out was like chinese to me ‍♂️ I’ve got a find a Union or fitting to attach the residual valve and proportioning valve together for the rear. I’ve figured out during this part of the process, that parts store employees know even less about brakes, and fittings than they do anything else on a car. I need to figure out the type of front hose I need to connect the through the frame fitting to the caliper. Anyways..we’re getting closer.

    Also worked on roughing in the bottoms side of the trans tunnel and body working everything there. Hope to have in primer Sunday.

    B9895696-D792-47BC-9602-27CB9AEB33F1.jpeg CDEB1337-4A03-47A4-84B5-1E8886EF13FC.jpeg 641FC6A7-17AA-427E-8D5C-9271C6F4F7E6.jpeg
     
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  16. choppinczech

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    My setup is similar to yours with thru frame fittings and bones. I had some front hoses made by this company.
    https://www.technafitstore.com/Custom-Lines-s/1866.htm

    front brake lines.jpeg

    The "clocking" of the opposing ends can get a bit confusing. But they can make them so that there's a left and a right.
     
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  17. fletcherson

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    Does it have air conditioning sir? So hard to find knowledgeable counter people.
     
  18. Spanky

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    While we're on the subject, during my build there was a NAPA store close by that had a couple of gearheads behind the counter. One was a muscle car guy, and the other was into street rods. They were a real pleasure to deal with, and knew what I was talking about when I had questions. Then . . . NAPA moved to a new, bigger 'state-of-the-art' store, and guess what? Those two guys were gone. Wish I knew where they went. Now I have to deal with 'year-make-and-model' guys every time I want a fan belt! :mad:
     
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  19. fletcherson

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    I had my guy at NAPA. He was old school. He actually understood how to use old catalogs to find parts by dimensions, etc. ‘‘twas a sad day when he retired. There is actually a female counter person, no offense intended, at a local AZ that is pretty good. She at least listens and tries to help instead of just asking endless unrelated questions. Yeah, I know, it’s the way the programs are written, it still makes it irritating.
     
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  20. choppedtop

    choppedtop
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    That is one reason I keep part #s on everything for my cars, Spanky. Usually no test has to be taken when I need a part.
     
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