Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Purple Powder Pickup

I'm putting a hidden hitch on my T so I can pull the trailer that I use behind my motorcycle. Some of the day-long car shows may require a small cooler or grill or chairs. I doubt they'll fit under the seat in the T, so, LOL, there you go.

I won't have my T there, but I'm looking forward to spending the day in Mountain Home for the Nats. Can't wait!
 
Quick Update on the seat:

After narrowing the seat frame last weekend, yesterday we finished up the seat build by fabricating some mounts and tab to allow the seat bottom to hinge. It was actually easier that originally thought and will make it really east to access the battery and tool boxes below the floor. Since the back and bottom were essentially separate pieces and the back was just welded on, we separated the two when we narrowed the seat 3-1/2". The seat back needed to be mounted to the floor and we so we welded each side of the back to a modified triangulated mounting tab. Each tab has a corresponding tab welded to the frame below the floor so when bolted the seat (and belt) will anchored to the frame. The seat bottom already had a few holes places where it appears the seat was made to articulate (presumably depending on options), so we reinforced the one that worked the best with a couple of washers and then bolted 1/8" thick tabs that were welded to the seat back, thus creating a hinge. When it all bolts together, a thick nylon washer serves as a bushing between the two halves of the seat. The hinge tabs push the seat bottom out slightly which allows for the seat bottom to hinge up with out binding on the seat back.

We obviously mocked up the seat several time to get the proper ergonomics before welding on tabs and mounts. The seat bottom front will be supported on a riser about 3-1/2" tall (basically a 2x4) that will be integral to the body. It will have some sort of pin that engages the seat bottom and lock it in when down. Finally, we removed the seat foam from the upholstery and removed 3-1/2" from the middle of them and glued them back together. They slip back on and when it hits the upholsterer, we'll have him add foam where necessary to smooth the seats out and fill in the sides and back to further fit the contours of the body.

To say we're pleased with it is an understatement. We have about $45 in the seat total which accounts for the $40 purchase price of the seat and about $5 in prefabricated tabs. We have about 6 hours total in the modification of the seat from when we removed it to now. It should save us some coin over a fabricated seat when it hits the upholsterer. Until then, an authentic Mexican blanket will be used. The seat was a middle seat to a late 80's early 90's Plymouth mini-van.

Here are a few pics:
As picked:


Frame Narrowed:


Now frame hinged and mounted:


Hinge and mount:


Working Hinges!


Foam Narrowed and installed:


More to come!
 
I tried one of those minivan seats a few years ago. The problem I had was that by changing the relationship between the back & the base [moving the backrest further to the rear of the base] the base rear support bar [ where the springs hook],even w/foam on , could be felt as a "hard spot" about at my tailbone . Even tho the seat was comfortable over all , I could still feel the bar. If you look at the way the seat was built originally you'll see that the backrest sat forward far enough to keep your butt in front of that bar. I hope I've explained this correctly .
dave
 
I get what you are saying- We moved it forward approx 1-1/2"- when the foam went back on, the natural seating position felt good, but we'll see as time goes. The plan is to drive it this summer with a sheet and Mexican blanket for upholstery, so if there is a problem, we can always fit it before it goes to the trim shop. Good input- thanks!
 
Ben, that car is looking AWESOME-can't wait to see more pix as the build progresses!
 
Ben, does the ceramic coating for the headers come in different colors ? thanks
Joecool: The high temp ceramic colors are offered in the silver aluminum, grey, titanium, black, and blue. There is one company that offers some additional colors, but they are proprietary to them, so they would be the only ones that could offer them. They are fairly new with no real track record, so I'd be weary.

Ben, that car is looking AWESOME-can't wait to see more pix as the build progresses!

You should like it- there are alot of similarities with your car! You have a great looking ride with a late 50's/ early 60's vibe like we are after.

Thanks for the nice words all!
 
Quick Update on the seat:

After narrowing the seat frame last weekend, yesterday we finished up the seat build by fabricating some mounts and tab to allow the seat bottom to hinge. It was actually easier that originally thought and will make it really east to access the battery and tool boxes below the floor. Since the back and bottom were essentially separate pieces and the back was just welded on, we separated the two when we narrowed the seat 3-1/2". The seat back needed to be mounted to the floor and we so we welded each side of the back to a modified triangulated mounting tab. Each tab has a corresponding tab welded to the frame below the floor so when bolted the seat (and belt) will anchored to the frame. The seat bottom already had a few holes places where it appears the seat was made to articulate (presumably depending on options), so we reinforced the one that worked the best with a couple of washers and then bolted 1/8" thick tabs that were welded to the seat back, thus creating a hinge. When it all bolts together, a thick nylon washer serves as a bushing between the two halves of the seat. The hinge tabs push the seat bottom out slightly which allows for the seat bottom to hinge up with out binding on the seat back.

We obviously mocked up the seat several time to get the proper ergonomics before welding on tabs and mounts. The seat bottom front will be supported on a riser about 3-1/2" tall (basically a 2x4) that will be integral to the body. It will have some sort of pin that engages the seat bottom and lock it in when down. Finally, we removed the seat foam from the upholstery and removed 3-1/2" from the middle of them and glued them back together. They slip back on and when it hits the upholsterer, we'll have him add foam where necessary to smooth the seats out and fill in the sides and back to further fit the contours of the body.

To say we're pleased with it is an understatement. We have about $45 in the seat total which accounts for the $40 purchase price of the seat and about $5 in prefabricated tabs. We have about 6 hours total in the modification of the seat from when we removed it to now. It should save us some coin over a fabricated seat when it hits the upholsterer. Until then, an authentic Mexican blanket will be used. The seat was a middle seat to a late 80's early 90's Plymouth mini-van.

Here are a few pics:
As picked:


Frame Narrowed:


Now frame hinged and mounted:


Hinge and mount:


Working Hinges!


Foam Narrowed and installed:


More to come!
Quick Update on the seat:

After narrowing the seat frame last weekend, yesterday we finished up the seat build by fabricating some mounts and tab to allow the seat bottom to hinge. It was actually easier that originally thought and will make it really east to access the battery and tool boxes below the floor. Since the back and bottom were essentially separate pieces and the back was just welded on, we separated the two when we narrowed the seat 3-1/2". The seat back needed to be mounted to the floor and we so we welded each side of the back to a modified triangulated mounting tab. Each tab has a corresponding tab welded to the frame below the floor so when bolted the seat (and belt) will anchored to the frame. The seat bottom already had a few holes places where it appears the seat was made to articulate (presumably depending on options), so we reinforced the one that worked the best with a couple of washers and then bolted 1/8" thick tabs that were welded to the seat back, thus creating a hinge. When it all bolts together, a thick nylon washer serves as a bushing between the two halves of the seat. The hinge tabs push the seat bottom out slightly which allows for the seat bottom to hinge up with out binding on the seat back.

We obviously mocked up the seat several time to get the proper ergonomics before welding on tabs and mounts. The seat bottom front will be supported on a riser about 3-1/2" tall (basically a 2x4) that will be integral to the body. It will have some sort of pin that engages the seat bottom and lock it in when down. Finally, we removed the seat foam from the upholstery and removed 3-1/2" from the middle of them and glued them back together. They slip back on and when it hits the upholsterer, we'll have him add foam where necessary to smooth the seats out and fill in the sides and back to further fit the contours of the body.

To say we're pleased with it is an understatement. We have about $45 in the seat total which accounts for the $40 purchase price of the seat and about $5 in prefabricated tabs. We have about 6 hours total in the modification of the seat from when we removed it to now. It should save us some coin over a fabricated seat when it hits the upholsterer. Until then, an authentic Mexican blanket will be used. The seat was a middle seat to a late 80's early 90's Plymouth mini-van.

Here are a few pics:
As picked:


Frame Narrowed:


Now frame hinged and mounted:


Hinge and mount:


Working Hinges!


Foam Narrowed and installed:


More to come!
What type of car did the seat come out of?
 
Quick project update:

Got the brakes plumbed and got the rest of the chassis squared away - all tabs, gussets, mounts, holes, threads, etc. and busted the chassis and all the components down for final welding, grinding and smoothing. Next stop is our media blasting booths and the powder booths!




 
Ben,
Great thread and liking your project progress as well as your killer shop and layout table.
Steve
 
In the last week or so, the frame, axles, and all the suspension parts have been blasted clean and powdercoated silver sparkle with high-gloss clear. Now its time to put this thing together! Here's a few before and after shots:





 
Time to start assembling! All the suspension and misc parts have been powder-coated Silver Sparkle and today I put the rear end back together while Dad and Dennis started assembling the front axle. We got new kingpins and re-bushed amd reamed the spindles. No play now- they're tighter than a nun's buns! The spring fought us for a few minutes, but we were able to get it spread.


 

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