roadmonster
Member
Any experience with removing leaves from buggy springs for an easier ride? I have a great setup but it's hard as a rock. What happens when leaves are removed?
Removing spring leaf for better ride
- Thread starter roadmonster
- Start date
roadmonster
Member
I already have reversed eyes with a 4-leaf spring. Removing the 3rd leaf seems to be the best way.
roadmonster
Member
Here's the spring and axle with the leaf I want to remove. Available travel is about 3", but it never moves more than 1" or so. I expect it to improve the ride without affecting the handling. Does anyone know for sure from doing it?
Do you know what that material is between the leafs ? it almost looks like body to frame webbing. The material may not be allowing the leafs to slide on one another. I would suggest taking the spring off , check it on the ground- stand on it to see if it moves easily (a 4-leaf in that thickness should compress relatively easy) if not, take out the material and try to compress it again. We use a Poly material, if thats the issue let me know the spring width and we will send you a roll.
Anyway I would definately NOT remove that leaf, just looking at the spring, it looks like leafs have already been removed.
Anyway I would definately NOT remove that leaf, just looking at the spring, it looks like leafs have already been removed.
roadmonster
Member
The question is not whether to remove it. The leaf is going to be removed regardless (even if it goes back in later), I'm just looking for tips from someone who's done it. I know this spring quite well from thousands of miles of driving as well as jacking, jumping on it, etc. and it is much too hard. The spring liner is the same stuff rodders have always used and it works fine. I don't expect a cushy ride, just a couple of inches of suspension travel where there is none now.
I think most people use a foot or two of all thread and a couple of large C-clamps. With the center bolt or tie bolt, whatever it is called, still in place, clamp the leaves with the clamps. If you put both clamps on one side you can lay the spring on the floor with the spring eyes vertical. Remove the center bolt and replace with the all thread. Use a couple of fender washers and double nuts on both sides of the spring.
With the nuts run down within a couple of inches short of tight on the spring, start loosening the clamps.
Without loading the nuts up too much, keep backing off the clamps and nuts, until the the tension is off.
I just happened to think, maybe you have not removed the spring from the T before. To take the tension off the shackles, I use the clamps with a 2X4 inside the curve of the spring. I tighten the clamps forcing the spring to flatten out. When the shackles are free hanging, I remove them. Be careful. The spring is a loaded trap. You can use large zip ties to hold the board in place and help keep the leaves from fanning out. A board wider than the spring will allow you to notch it, helping keep the spring and board alighned.
With the nuts run down within a couple of inches short of tight on the spring, start loosening the clamps.
Without loading the nuts up too much, keep backing off the clamps and nuts, until the the tension is off.
I just happened to think, maybe you have not removed the spring from the T before. To take the tension off the shackles, I use the clamps with a 2X4 inside the curve of the spring. I tighten the clamps forcing the spring to flatten out. When the shackles are free hanging, I remove them. Be careful. The spring is a loaded trap. You can use large zip ties to hold the board in place and help keep the leaves from fanning out. A board wider than the spring will allow you to notch it, helping keep the spring and board alighned.
roadmonster
Member
Why not just jack up the frame and unbolt the spring from the perch? There's no need to remove the spring from the shackles. With no weight on the spring, there will be no tension. Remove the leaf without removing the spring from the axle, lower the frame, and bolt it back up.
Ma_n_Pa T
Member
I would have to agree with Jerry, take that webbing or rubber out (what ever it is) put some Teflon in, you can get a roll of it from speedway, as for removing one leaf, that would be up to you, start by removing the spring from the car so you have room to work on it and dont get hirt, remove the spring bolt, clean it up, put the Teflon in and replace the bolt, most bolts are long enough to go all the way though all the springs (4-6-8" long), put the nut on tighen it down cut the exta stud off, hit the stud threads with a hammer to bend over the theads to lock them, install the spring, go have fun.
Please do not use allstock for a spring bolt, its too soft and will shear off.
Jerry
roadmonster
Member
Let me repeat that I am only removing a leaf. I have no intention of removing the entire spring and even if I did, I would just drop it from the perch and unbolt the shackles. Clamping a spring to unbolt it under tension sounds like an accident waiting to happen. The spring liner is not a problem, it works fine and the spring does not squeak. This is an ultra-traditional setup that really works great EXCEPT for the hard ride.
2old2fast
Active Member
I know this will sound counter-intuitive but if you take a leaf out of the spring , you may end up w/ a harsher ride. By reducing the springs load carrying capacity, you will reduce it's ability to flex , if it's closer to the max of what it will carry, you've actually reduced it's flexibility. also , even unloaded, there is still alot of "stored energy via the leaves being clamped/bolted together, be careful!! dave Also, while your spring doesn't squeak, it also may not be "sliding" as it should
putz
Member
Let me ask you this have you tried stepping on spring mount with your grill cone off to see where it is actually holding back. I just looked at the pic do you have a pic of it from the rear where the shock mount is. It looks like your shackles are straight not letting the spring flex. Usually they are not in perfect alignment. If you put your foot where your finger is will shackle pivot this maybe not letting your spring lengthen. Just trying to look at your problem from a different angle. Thinking spring could be 1 inch to short.
roadmonster
Member
The spring is hung correctly and the shackle angle is correct and the spring works as it should, it's just too heavy for the weight it carries. If you look at at a new tapered monoleaf spring designed for a T, you can see just how heavy this is in comparison. I think removing the 3rd leaf will make it much more responsive. It's getting cold now, so it may be a while before I can try it.
roadmonster
Member
Actually, the shackle angle is a little shallow, I wonder if the lighter spring will let it settle lower.
donsrods
Member
I would be afraid to go with less than 4 leaves. What I would do is buy some teflon buttons from Chassis Engineering, drill a 5/16 inch hole in the end of the 3 top leaves, and insert the buttons between the leaves. It is a way to get a similar spring to a Posies Superslide if you already have a different brand. Four leaves should not give you a stiff ride.
What shocks are you running?
Don
What shocks are you running?
Don
roadmonster
Member
Shocks are So-cal, excellent quality, not the problem because the spring never deflects enough for them to really come into play. Teflon liner or buttons won't help because that's not the problem. The spring is too hard, period. I'm only trying to find out what happens when you soften a suicide front end with hairpins.
