RPM Bodies

[crickifur]

I have seen quite a few postings here reguarding RPM's stuff. From what I can see, the quality of his parts is very high. I just recently talked to him and I have to say, he was a very polite and helpful guy. I was curious how many people on here have used his 10" extended body with door and how good the fiberglass quality was. Im sure its good as he says, but its always great to get some input from outside sources. I have an unused TP frame (almost rolling), that I was thinking of extending to fit the body. I appreciate the help folks. I am looking to have this car running/driving by next fall, and i dont want to touch a drivetrain build til I have a complete rolling chasis with body.

Thanks again,

Chris

 

[putz]

Welcome from the great white north. We do survive on pics.

 

[guilld]

I stopped when I went to shades of the past and looked at a body. It looked real good to me from a quality stand point and pleasing to the eye.

 

[crickifur]

thanks guilld
putz, I have a frame, suspension and a rear end, the frame is currently being cleaned up with some mods, so not really worth taking pics of my friend hahaha. As soon as I get it back from the welders and powder coaters next month, Ill be sure to start a build thread though Right now I am just trying to figure out if i want to keep the stock length frame or extend it with the longer body... I guess you can say that Im still in the pre build stage... So, that being said, if you had to do it again, would you (anyone here) have gone with an extended body, over the original length??

 

[RESINATOR]

Unless you're 5' 6" tall or less you would want to go with an extended body. When you extend the frame, you should extend the main rail, not just the rear top kick section. This will keep the body floor area open for the seat base to be down near the floor where it would be most comfortable. The other thing to think about would be resale value, it's much easier to sell a car that most people will fit into and get into (door).

Jerry

 

[RPM]

Here are some other pictures of that body, that are not on our web site. That is me in the body, 6'2" 300 lbs with plenty of room to spare.

 

[Telman2]

... So, that being said, if you had to do it again, would you (anyone here) have gone with an extended body, over the original length??

I'm 5'-10" 180 lbs and yes today an extended body with a door would at the top of my list. When I first built my bucket in 67 all they had were original size buckets without doors and I didn't know anything about fiberglass work. Now being in my late 60's I have to spend the winter months in the gym so I can be sure I can still climb up into the bucket in the spring.

 

[sstock]

This body would look good to me on a slammed frame with a 40" bed on it. I thinkin my next build.

 

[RocknT]

I have one and it is really good I didnt see any warpage or wavy glass, the gel coat is really smooth and even.

 

[crickifur]

Awesome! Thanks guys that was the input I was looking for! RPM, those extra pics were a big help as well!! I guess the only other question I have left is

Where do I mount the Corvair box? Do any of you know how far from the front crossmember and how I should mount it if I were looking to put it in front of firewall?? I know there is not a lot of room between the headers and the firewall, but I have seen it done a few times. Ill be using the standard t-bucket headers that stick straight out from the engine. Once I figure out that last measurement, I can get this frame welded up and powdercoated

 

[RPM]

The stretched body will take up 58" of top rail, measure from the weld line on the back. So from the weld at the kick up measure forward 58"and that is where the firewall will be. Mount your Corvair box right in front of the firewall. If you need more help give me a call back.

 

[Youngster]

I agree with Ron on the steering box location. This is also the place to mount your front hair pins, 4 bar or bones for the most trouble free handling and steering. If you set your firewall even with the trans flange on the engine (SBC) you will have room for your 'vair box.

Ron

 

[Youngster]

If you don't have your body yet, Just tack your frame together. Home made frames often have some clearence issues. Mock as much as you can before final welding. Ask me how I know this!

Ron

 

[crickifur]

hahaha I have a Total Performance frame. I dont want my steering column running through the floor so Im relocating it. my fabricator has the engine/trans for mock up, i just wanted to make sure that I didnt have him weld the box too far from the firewall

 

[captainjunk]

wow i like the picture of the extended T body the deeper cowl actually makes for a better looking body

 

[RocknT]

This is what mine looks like so far I have not taken any new pictures . I have been working on the engine . But gives an idea how it looks on the frame. Not bolted down yet .

 

[crickifur]

I do love this extended body! Ill finish setting up my frame next month and work on getting the last few parts i need for the rolling chassis. Ill order the body up after the holidays. Ill get the family to add in some money to put towards it and it wont hurt the pocket so much

 

[Curtmann]

Would you say that this body needs no wooding?

 

[RocknT]

I am going to wood mine in just because it makes it a lot more solid .my last one had an insert in it "not an RPM body" and would flex when I got in and out . I think ""to me "" it needs wooding just to take the flexing out that fibreglass is known for ,,

 

[donsrods]

I have never seen one of Ron's bodies but knowing the way he does every other item he sells I have no doubt it is first rate. RPM is truly one of the good guys in this hobby.

As for where to put the steering box, I never understand how anyone builds a car without having the body right there during the mockup stage. Whenever I build a car the body is on and off a dozen times, getting the look I am after and making sure stuff fits. I think you need the body, the engine you will be running (even if it is just a dummy engine, but the same make and model you will be using) and some representative wheels and tires. I always mock up the body at the ride height I want it to sit at, then I place the engine in front of the firewall allowing clearance for the back of the heads and distributor, then prop the tires up where I think they look right, and sit back and study it for a while.

To just start welding something as critical as a steering box mount to the frame without having the body there to compare it to is just asking for trouble IMO.

Don