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So does this sound right?

ChrisK

Member
Im getting parts together for my brake system. So far I have tandem master cylinder with 7" booster. A universal combination valve, 2 lb residual for the front discs and a ten pound one for the rear drums. All Chevrolet parts. The master is going under the driver seat on the frame with a pushrod to the pedal. That's the plan so far. Any thoughts? I also have a adjustable proportion valve for the rear. Don't know if I will need it.
 
Im getting parts together for my brake system. So far I have tandem master cylinder with 7" booster. A universal combination valve, 2 lb residual for the front discs and a ten pound one for the rear drums. All Chevrolet parts. The master is going under the driver seat on the frame with a pushrod to the pedal. That's the plan so far. Any thoughts? I also have a adjustable proportion valve for the rear. Don't know if I will need it.

I personally see no need for a booster. With these cars, as light as they are, it take very little foot pressure to bring them to a control stop, even from speed. IMHO

Jim
 
I personally see no need for a booster. With these cars, as light as they are, it take very little foot pressure to bring them to a control stop, even from speed. IMHO

Jim
Yep no booster needed. Most of the brakes are from a 3500 lb car and now we have them on a 1600 lb car. Plenty of stopping power.
 
I got a 1200 stall converter on this trans I got that why I went with the booster. I haven't put anything on the car yet I will probably go without the booster now.
 
there are many different size[bore] chev MC's as well as different bore calipers & wheel cyl,'s... You have to figure out if what you have will play together nicely..
dave
 
I got a 1200 stall converter on this trans I got that why I went with the booster. I haven't put anything on the car yet I will probably go without the booster now.
1) It'll be a bear to hold at stop with that converter. Might want to just get a 2000 or so now so you won't have to swap it out later.

2) T bucket brakes are easy. Most any master cylinder, forget the pressure valves and proportioning valve, throw it together and cruise. I say this IF you are just buzzing around at reasonable speeds. If you plan to go real fast or mix it up in heavy traffic, then maybe more stuff and some engineering. I've had everything from rear drums only to 4 wheel discs, and tried all the goodies without noting much difference.
 
I'd definitely put a proportioning valve in, if you're running big & little tires. Helps stop the rear from locking up under hard braking. You may get away without it, but easier to put it in now , than have to re-hash your brake lines later.
 

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