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Spirit Stretch body

old round fart

Well-Known Member

Just picked up my new stretched body and to say I'm impressed would be a gross understatement! I went to Mt. Home last summer to talk to B.C. & Josh and was impressed with everything I saw.
I built a '23 in 1972 and drove it from Atlanta Ga. to Memphis Tn. for the NSRA Street Rod Nationals. I have had street rods and race cars, but nothing beats a bucket.
I have retired to Norman Ok. and am planning a very different T. I have been planning this project for several years and if you guys would like to see a build and don't mind long stretches between updates, I would like to document some of my challenges.

Some of my goals are:

1. Comfort for long drives.
2. Lower stance (easier to get in)
3. Longer door (easier to get my three hundred and plenty lb. body in.
4. Sit as low as possible in the car.
5. HAVE FUN AT THE BASH NEXT YEAR!
 
The first thing I did was build a cart to put the body on. Total investment was about $20.00 so that will help make the build more enjoyable.

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Last edited by old round fart; 02-01-2013 at 12:31 AM..
 
Had a good day in the shop today. Had an idea about how to more easily generate the pattern for my floor. I drilled holes every 2: and put in "t" nuts and 1/4" threaded rod I could adjust to touch the body from the kart. Then transferred the measurement to 1/4" ply to make my pattern. About 10 min. with a grinder had a good fit. Made one for each side, connected them with scrap straps and made a 1/4" whole floor pattern. Fine adjustments and then the 3/4" floor was cut.

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Made a picture to see how low I can get in the car. This one I'm sitting on a 4x4 on the floor level.

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This one is 1 1/2" above the floor, which is more of my goal.

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I think I would really be more comfortable with a center steer car, but I better not go there!!
 
I really like this, especially the roll around cart.That would be very helpful in my one car garage where i built one t. being able to roll it in and out would be great
 
With that cart you could just "fred flinstone" it.... probably a good workout !!! no more cash outlay.. no plates , gas , tires , etc required..

:roflmao: dave
 
PovtinGuy, I have been watching your posts for a while now! I moved to Ok. to be close enough to come see you in Tx. and damn if you didn't go farther north! I want to take a good look at your car. I would love to put my radiator in the back and make an updated version of my first car.

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If I can get in and out of my new body, I'll make the decision on "normal" or real long.
 
Mercy, that is one unique bucket! We were in Ardmore in 2010, but 3M decided to bring us to MN. I'd like to return to OK when we retire. Gonna try to take the car to the GG Des Moines show in July.
 
I've been retired since 2002, when WorldCom collapsed and I found out nobody wants an old fat white guy. But my wife is with 3M and has maybe 5 years to go. MN is great in the summer, but miserable in the winter, and the bucket sits in the garage half the year.

My car's wheelbase is 121", about 2 ft longer than a typical T. I think that contributes to the good ride.
 
I know what you mean. I loved the frame flex like the dragsters. Every body remembered that car even if they didn't know me.
 
1 2 and 3 are my goals on your list.table.JPG That cart is the way to go when space is limited. This is mine.
 
That looks heavy duty enough! I have a 12' table made from 4x4x1/4" angle I will use when I start my frame. Working at 3' off the floor is much easier on us old guys!
 

Well, I was finally able to get back to the shop today and make a little progress. I have had MANY failures and re-do's that didn't work, but I feel pretty good about today's labor.
I went to the body shop supply store and got this adhesive and I quess it will work, but was not exactly what I wanted. I was looking for the consistency of bondo, but this was more like honey.

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With the floor fitting as close as it did, I just put it in the crack and it filled all the space and didn't drain out so I think it will work. I will try to find something a little thicker for the rest of the wood.



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I would still glass the floor in. Just wet some mat and lay it up a few inches on the body and let it overlap a few inches on the wood. Then brush the wood with resin to seal it.
 
Yes, the adhesive is just to fill the crack between the floor and body. I'll overlap about 2" either side of the crack then a couple of layers over the whole floor. Then I'll flip it over and do the bottom. I was not looking forward to sanding fiberglass again, but so far it hasn't been to scratchy!
Working with this heavy duty body is a lot better than my first body! THANKS BOB!!!
 

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