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Starting a "C" Cab project

racenitro

Banned
Acquiring the parts, engine, rear end, front axle etc for a new project. This one will be a "C" Cab with a 460 ford, 4:10 ford 9" with disc, speedway chrome front axle setup and fabricated frame.

Waiting on Spirit to complete the C Cab body so I can go pick it up and then fabricate the frame.

Rear end is getting cleaned up and the 460 is apart waiting for the cab sop I can build the frame.

Trans will be a C-6.

Have about half of everything I need.

Will post pictures as the project moves along.
 
Spirit has the body done. Will head to Flipping Ak as soon as I get back from California. look forward to getting underway with the build. will be able to mock up the combination so I can start the frame. using thick wall 1 1/2 x 3 tubing and putting extra plates where the mounts bolt up. also hiding brake lines, fuel lines and wiring so there is a lot to do on the frame. as soon as I start the frame I can then order the front end parts. only parts not here.
 
Biggest is the floor....1/2 inch osb. Is way too thin for this heavy a body. Osb flexes too much. Finish, floor, seatbelt mounting. Etc will set me back at least 5g for parts and time.. Already way behind and now doubt it will be done by next fall. Was not ready for pick up still on shop jig.... No way to set it on truck...had to build my own took 2 1/2 hrs to load.
 
What is OSB?
Here are the C-Cabs I built.:D They were both on T-bucket style frames, both 96" wheelbase, both Chevy powered. Both had coil sprung rear and torsion bar front suspensions. I stretched the blue body 2" in the "C" area to improve legroom and reshaped the doors to strengthen the door opening. Both bodies were fab'd out of 3/8" plywood and 2 x 2's and laminated with fiberglass. They were fun to drive and attracted a lot of attention wherever I went.:cool: The yellow one appeared on the cover of Street Scene magazine in November '77. It is now black with flames and fenders and lives in Huntsville, AL. The blue one went to Miami, FL and I lost track of it.

C-Cab pics.jpg C-Cab pics 038.jpg
 
Osb is pressed wood chips with glue. Very weak. We're your floors 3/8. Most t buckets are 3/4 plywood. Plywood is much stronger than osb due to the cross grain construction. I will sandwich the floor with 1/8 alum on top and polished 1/4 underneath. Not sure how I can secure seat belts. Well have to start at very beginning and block ,fill, and block sand the body. It is extremely rough. Getting it ready to haul home was a very maddening experience. They claimed they ship the body sitting on a little frame under the main floor.....it rocked like a rocking chair that was tail heavy..... Finally ran them off and built my own sub frame to hold it for the 300 mile ride home. Stopped every 50 miles to check and adjust.....glad I took tools along. It is home. Headed to body shop. Now I can take measurements and build frame.....battery box with NO opening under seat stickes way too low...may cut it off and relocate. Also will be glassing some panels for interior.....
 
We have used the same floor and technique on the c-cab for many years now. The floor has been covered with fiberglass, Chopped and resin which adds to the strength starting with 5/8 wood not 1/2. We have many customers that have our C-cab body and have had for years with no issues with the floor or body. We have built a few c-cab turnkeys as well and no issues at all. Look at the fit and finish of your pre-hung doors and compare them to any other comparable product out on the market. We had 5 separate people helping you load the c-cab and yes it was on the frame jig so we could roll it outside since the body is so heavy. My guys were professional in the way they treated you unlike the way you treated them. We ship hundreds of bodies via pickup truck, trailer, and semi with no issues at all. We build the platform so it protects the battery box from damage in shipping. We weren't done building the box but you had jumped all over my guys and told them that you are in charge so they let you do it your way. We don't cut a hole in the seat because we don't know how the customer is going to apply the interior. The body has been done for quite sometime now. It was unfortunate that you didn't say anything when you were here about the quality of the body and we would of gladly refunded your money and shipped the body to the next order in line as they would of been happy with the body. We addressed the floor issue with you and explained why we do it that way. Yes we use plascore (honey comb material) in the roof to reinforce.
 
We have used the same floor and technique on the c-cab for many years now. The floor has been covered with fiberglass, Chopped and resin which adds to the strength starting with 5/8 wood not 1/2. We have many customers that have our C-cab body and have had for years with no issues with the floor or body. We have built a few c-cab turnkeys as well and no issues at all. Look at the fit and finish of your pre-hung doors and compare them to any other comparable product out on the market. We had 5 separate people helping you load the c-cab and yes it was on the frame jig so we could roll it outside since the body is so heavy. My guys were professional in the way they treated you unlike the way you treated them. We ship hundreds of bodies via pickup truck, trailer, and semi with no issues at all. We build the platform so it protects the battery box from damage in shipping. We weren't done building the box but you had jumped all over my guys and told them that you are in charge so they let you do it your way. We don't cut a hole in the seat because we don't know how the customer is going to apply the interior. The body has been done for quite sometime now. It was unfortunate that you didn't say anything when you were here about the quality of the body and we would of gladly refunded your money and shipped the body to the next order in line as they would of been happy with the body. We addressed the floor issue with you and explained why we do it that way. Yes we use plascore (honey comb material) in the roof to reinforce.

I was going to get in on this until I saw your reply. If people don't ask questions before hand and just take what's willy/nilly, then they get what they deserve. I also know Spirit does tell all when they build a product for a customer and will back it up with a money back return. All companies will not do this. To racenitro I say you should have left the body on the cart and asked for your money back. You would have gotten it. But to bad mouth a company on a public forum that they are a sponsor for, and what looks like your fault in the first place is just wrong . My opinion only and not those of T-Bucket Forums or Spirit Industries.
 
Why I don't like OSB:

OSB swell is generally greater than in plywood due to the release of compaction stress in OSB created during the pressing of wood chips into an OSB panel. Plywood that has swollen will return to its nominal thickness as the wood dries. OSB will remain swollen to some degree after it dries because the panel will still have the higher "compaction ratio" that was present as of the date of manufacture.

The comparison below, undertook by the APA, lists the thickness swell (in percent) using a water soak test.
Plywood Average swell= 6% to 8% depending on thickness
OSB Average swell= 10% to 15% depending on thickness

Over a period of time, when subjected to high humidity or a series of dramatic wetting events, OSB is more prone to panel swell than plywood especially at the edges. Panel swell is most noticeable along the edges where it is critical for flooring and roof sheathing to match-up as not to show through the flooring or roofing materials.

Research done by the USDA Forest Products Laboratory (Research Paper FLP-RP-574) shows that over an extended period of time, under low constant loads and temperature, and in high-humid conditions, OSB will sag or "creep" more than plywood.


50% RH Fractional creep values
1.4mm Plywood
1.7mm OSB

85% RH Fractional creep values
1.9mm Plywood
5.2mm OSB

Cyclic RH 50%-85% creep values
2.0mm Plywood
4.6mm OSB


Long-term, plywood sags less than OSB in humid conditions. In humid areas with vented attics and crawl spaces, using plywood for roof and floor sheathing can reduce risk of sagging roofs and floors.

APA Technical Note N375B states that plywood panel bending stiffness is 10% greater than OSB at equal joist spacing. Panel bending stiffness is the capacity to resist deflection.

Density of plywood is 34-36 pounds per cubic foot compared to OSB at 38-42 pounds per cubic foot.
One 23/32" 4'x 8' plywood piece would weigh approximately 67 lbs.
One 23/32" 4'x 8' OSB piece would weigh approximately 78 lbs.

Plywood is approximately 15% to 19% lighter than OSB. While the additional weight of OSB does not mean increased strength, it just means that it is heavier to handle on the job. In addition, OSB's higher weight means higher thermal conductivity (thus slightly less R value) than plywood

T-test....ordered the Cab because Spirit was a sponsor! I like to support sponsors. When I sent in the order, they never even acknowledged receipt of the order. I had to ask for acknowledgement! No communications on their part. I had to inquire about status when nearly 2 months had gone by. Never received an invoice for the $1500 deposit...have you purchased a body from them? Never inquired if I wanted any changes.

" I also know Spirit does tell all when they build a product for a customer and will back it up with a money back return" LOL

I guess I am way more particular about my cars than other must be and always have been since I built my first street rod in 1968.

Since I am the bad guy, you can delete me completely including the other build thread. You don't need me and I don't need you!

Good bye!
 
Have WE lost another member because of a difference in opinions? I am truly sorry for any harm I have caused to ANYONE for my remarks, and apologize to Mike for stepping on toes not my own. Just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD, and I'll admit to my mistakes even tho opinions are like A----, everyone has one.
 
We have sold a ton of c-cab bodies. We have c-cab bodies that are 7+ years old with the same floor with no issues at all. The places that I can think off the top of my head where they are located are Indiana, Colorado, California, NJ, and Louisiana and there are more than that but that all I can remember without looking the others one up. If it was an issue we would of addresses the issue a long time ago. The floor is reinforced with fiberglass and resin. I am going to leave it at that and it is not worth getting into a pissing match.
 
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It looks like this is a good opportunity to have a discussion on floor types. The advantages and disadvantages. Much of what will be said will be opinion so take it for what it's worth. Here is my opinion and some reasons Spirit does things the way we do. First is, can we sell the product for the price we have to charge to make the product profitable and are we competitive both in quality and cost. The C cab is the only product we produce that has a wood product in the floor but we do sell many T body's with no floor and I'm sure in most cases the customer puts some sort of wood product in the floor. The reason we use wood as the base for the floor in the C cab is for cost. We make various models of a Model A , 1932 Ford, and a 1934 Ford that all cost over $6000. We have tried to keep the cost of the C cab under $3000 but still build a quality body and I believe we have done that. What I am going to do now to help us all understand what water can do to a wood floor is make 3 test panels one of plywood, one of OSB, one of partial board. I will mask them in the middle and prepare 1/2 of the sample the way I believe it should be done when using it for a floor the other half I will leave as is. Then for 1 week I will totally wet the entire piece and take a picture daily to see what happens. Then I will leave them out side to see what happens during an extended time. After a few years I'm sure we will have a valid test.
 
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Here is what I found when I lifted the body up high enough to craw under:

"Chopped and resin which adds to the strength starting with 5/8 wood not 1/2." Quote from Mr. Spirit's post, don't know his name since he never introduced himself to me.

Does not look like 5/8" or 1/2" since there is a 1/2" category OSB!

T-test......now what do you say.

Now I'm gone!
 

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