steel '21 T roadster
- Thread starter Youngster
- Start date
Ted Brown
Member
... and the extra parts ...
You said... Opps ... didn't mention it came with a clear Minnesota title!!!!!!! Now thats the best part!!!
I welded up a set of P&J ladder bars for a guy and he traded this for $100 plus cash for 4 hours labor.
Ron
Opps ... didn't mention it came with a clear Minnesota title!!!!!!!
Very cool :cheer:
Not really sure what to do with it. I would love to build an early '30's soup job as my Grandpa called them. Modified Model A frame with A running gear. Got most of that already. I'm thinking it sould be built as something other than a SBC powered T. There's a couple going on on the HAMB now. Looks like fun to me.
Ron
Ron
rooster57
Member
That would be cool youngster with your frame "A" front axle, banjo rearend , flathead 3 speed all paint no chrome on the motor,stopsign floor boards,minimal interior,a cool logo on the side and just seal the body in primer or something flat ,oval fuel tank with the round bracket mount tail lights.wire wheels, and low as she will go.
Thinking more like
gloss black weathered paint
body mostly straight with turtle deck and not channeled
Frame dropped 5" in front, 6" kick in the rear
Model A 4 cyl, 3 speed and A banjo rear
17" whells in front, 18" on the rear
outside exhaust
Holly 94, shaved head and Mallory distributor
stock seating with oval tank in stock possition under the seat
'32 steering box
Nothing later than '34 manufacture. This is what the "kids" where building up through the WWII years. They were known as soup or gow jobs. Cheap and easy to build with cast off parts.
Ron
gloss black weathered paint
body mostly straight with turtle deck and not channeled
Frame dropped 5" in front, 6" kick in the rear
Model A 4 cyl, 3 speed and A banjo rear
17" whells in front, 18" on the rear
outside exhaust
Holly 94, shaved head and Mallory distributor
stock seating with oval tank in stock possition under the seat
'32 steering box
Nothing later than '34 manufacture. This is what the "kids" where building up through the WWII years. They were known as soup or gow jobs. Cheap and easy to build with cast off parts.
Ron
It would be a town car for sure. A stock model A was good for around 45 or 50 mph. The rear end I have is a 4:11 so it'll get there pretty quick. Shaving the head .040 will raise the compression to about 6:1. That's as far as I want to go with a babbited crank and rods. There are still reground cams available too. I also have a '28 Chevy head (ohv) that can be adapted with a Jern kit. That should get 20 to 25 more horses. With any luck that might get (hahaha) 55 to 65 hp out of it.
Do ya think I'll need seatbelts??
Ron
Do ya think I'll need seatbelts??
Ron
Well I couldn't stand it anymore. Sat. the ol' girl was callin' out, "Help me!!" So here we go. After looking her over for the worst pannel, I decided to start with the passenger cowl. There hasn't been any sort of support for the sheet metal for a very long time and the sill or pannel under the door was bent all out of shape. This 90 year old has it's share of cancer too.
This is what I started with;
You can see the rust. There were also 3 fatigue cracks. On top of that someone tried to remove some dents with what looks like a 4lb. sledge. Oh well ......
Ron
This is what I started with;
You can see the rust. There were also 3 fatigue cracks. On top of that someone tried to remove some dents with what looks like a 4lb. sledge. Oh well ......
Ron
After a 9 hour session this is what it looks like now. There's a couple low spots that will shrink out just fine with a torch. Wouldn't ya know it, I'm out of oxy for my torch. Might as well finish the patching first. The point is to bring the metal back where a good coat of surfacer will level everything out.
Here she is with all the patches welded up. Managed to save about 60% of the original pannel.
Ron
Here she is with all the patches welded up. Managed to save about 60% of the original pannel.
Ron
Similar threads
