Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

steer clear

Hi everyone, I am the guy that designed and manufactures Steer Clear. I found this forum by tracking traffic to my website. I have been building custom cars for 30 years and owner of Wizard Fabrication for 20. I look forward to answering any questions or concerns that anyone might have. First off it seems that some people have a instant distrust of the use of chain in a steering application, but are not sure why. truth is that chains have been used to steer stuff as long as any other method. You can find then in everything form air planes to heavy equipment and a very long list of other vehicles. Steer Clear has been installed in a 200 MPH roadster for Gean Winfield to run at the Bonneville Salt Flats My link, and 2 other 200 MPH cars. 3 years of R&D went in to it's design. The things are indestructible, constantly tested, and lifetime guaranteed, I could go on and on but I don't want to break any terms of use on this board, and am sorry if I already did. I look forward to any further questions or comments. Thanks Dave
 
Hi Dave,
Does your “Steer Clear” use a tensioner? How much play is there in the setup? Can you feel it in the steering wheel? Does the chain use a master link or is it 1 piece? Do you have a picture of the inside of the unit showing the chain and gears?
Thanks,
Bill
 
129112988332833261.jpg


This is a version you could try maybe Gerry Uk could build one our way then use this setup.LOL
 
129112988332833261.jpg


This is a version you could try maybe Gerry Uk could build one our way then use this setup.LOL


There is just no way that is safe!!! . I can't believe you even posted a setup like that that doesn't have a belt guard. :)

Russ
 
There is just no way that is safe!!! . I can't believe you even posted a setup like that that doesn't have a belt guard. :)

Russ

Hey, Don't make fun of my postal delivery car. I have a great route on high, tight mountain roads. Sometimes when the belt slips, I stuff someone's Mountain Man Catalog between the belt and pulley to take up the slack.

I used to take my dog with me but he kept biting at the label on the belt and finally chewed through the belt it one day on the way home.

This steering set up is a lot better than the linkage I lashed up for the brake and I think I got one of those Toyota gas pedals 'cause sometimes it sticks to the floor.

Now I carry a roll of toilet paper on the dash.
 
Thank you for your questions, Steeer Clear does have 4 tensioning guides that are made from UHMW, That is the plastic that is used for a lot of timing chain guides the uhmw is amazing stuff it is 4x as resistant to wear than stainless steel, extremely low drag coefficient. during assembly each unit is spun on a machine at 1500 rpm's lubricated and checked for back lash. we have a max allowable of 1 1/2 degrees. We keep that down to 0 - 1/2 degree which is the same as 1/2 of a minute on a clock and that is very hard to feel in the wheel. As far as the chain we use a 1piece riveted ( no master link ) pre stressed chain, pre stressed means that the chain is run through a set of sprockets while force is applied to eliminate what is often called chain stretch. we spin test units at 1500 rpm's for 12 hours and after over 1,000,000 revolutions there is no measurable difference in any of the parts. Sorry but no pictures of the inside. Steer Clear can be mounted on ether side of the fire wall or where ever it works best. a few guys that have built COE ( cab over engine) trucks have put them on the bottom side of the toe board, some race applications have made brackets mounted to the roll bar. I take a lot of pride in the fact that I won the highest award in the whole automotive aftermarket, SEMA'S Best Engineered New Product of the year for Steer Clear. We stand behind it 100% and give a lifetime warranty.
 
Dave,

Thanks for your coming on board to provide insight to your product.

Let me quote you. " First off it seems that some people have a instant distrust of the use of chain in a steering application, but are not sure why."

Dave, I have an instant distrust of the use of chain in a steering application. The difference is I do know why. I explained it with the federal reg and an analysis of the information provided about your product in the Speedway catalog. Speedway is know not provide much information about their products thereby making informed descisions difficult at best . This isn't limited to your product, however take a look at Speedway's ad and tell me why I wouldn't have the concerns I experssed.

My money is on Speedway as the culprit for not providing sufficient information. The other side of that coin is the question of how much information you provided to Speedway for their catalog.

A couple of additional points here. A degree and a half of play on a fifteen inch steering wheel is an arc about .196" long. That seems quite reasonable, especially if the product is less than that.

If the chain is pre-stretched then why are the plastic tensioners needed at all unless they provide a guide channel of sorts... as it were. But, certainly not for stretch, I presume.

I don't the S-way ad nearby, so I don't know if it mentions if the shafts are supported on both sides of the sprockets by bearings or bushings or what.

By the way, I still don't know what size chain is in the unit or if the sprockets are heat treated for that matter.

And, for what's it's worth (which is nothing) I went over 200 MPH. That was back in the sixties.....
 
129112988332833261.jpg


This is a version you could try maybe Gerry Uk could build one our way then use this setup.LOL

Now lets see. I have a couple of pulleys and the local speed shop has a fan belt around the right size. Give me a couple of days and i will see what i come up with. Just as a thing of info I was always told that the original US T was right hand drive. So whos right here????
Gerry
 
Old Rotor Flap, I understand and respect the want to know how it works kind of guy, I am one. As you pointed out Speedway does not provide much info. other than size and finish and to be honest I don't want them to try to provide it,. They are to forward any questions directly to me. We also try to give a much deeper description on our website.

You are right, the guides do provide a base for the chain. when you take a chain that is unsupported for any distance that is set at zero tension the chain will have some side to side movement, and that was just unacceptable. Stretch is not of any concern we use a #35 ANSI approved industrial roller chain with a tinsel strength of 1400 LBS. If you were to slide the front wheel in to a curb at a high speed the steering wheel would be ripped from your grasp, no one could hold it back enough to break the chain. When you think of the forces that are put into the steering wheel it is hard to measure because they are so low. I have a full size Chevy truck with power steering, and without the motor running on dry pavement it takes only 35 foot pounds of torque to turn the front wheels. I measured this by using a torque wrench on the steering wheel nut.

The shafts are supported one both sides by 2 life time lubricated and rubber sealed deep grove ball bearings. The shafts are made by the good people at IDIDIT they are welded to laser cut sprockets on an custom automated welding machine. and no they are not treated.
 
Dave,

Thank you sir. You have done an outstanding job of describing your Steer Clear product. I am impressed.

When I first saw it I was apprehensive. Now, I as well as our other members here are very well informed.

I can see where this product could help a lot of builders, especially those who want a stick shift and need the room for the clutch pedal.

Thanks again and stick around, we can use more members.

ORF
 
OK, Dave, I would like some info on the steerclear....so I can have a good workig knowdledge of the uses of this. You don't have to elaborate on specifics, I build racing stuff, I know you gotta guard your intell. properties and all....heres what I'd like to know.

That size chain are we talking about here? Larger than RC-30?
Are the sprocket supports nylon or ball bearing...?
Suppose I wanted one of these in my car, what is the steering shaft diameter into and out of the steer clear? Are the shaft holes thru holes? Whats the munting pad look like? What are the tapped hole sizes? The Bolt spread, cl to cl....

You see, there are alot of specifics we need to know to use something like this. I know the strengths of roller chain, prestretched and with idlers, (both roller and sliding block). My dad worked for Link Belt, FMC, the ones that made the timing chains with the nylon gears, he was one of the head engineers, (Don't worry guys....I beat him up quite a bit over the years for that! Ha!) (Yea, Mike....Indianapolis, Indiana!)

Anyway, now strong is the outter housing, can I TIG to it to make brackets? Is the housing resistant to axial/Torsional twisting from off axis mounting?

Thank you for the info.....
 
dave,
what diameter is the input and output shafts and the spline count, do i need to buy special couplers?
 
Screaming Metal, thank you for your questions. Steer clear has been used on several types of race vehicles, drag race, wheel stander. bonnyville, trophy truck, rock crawler, to name a few. so we are on the same page. we use a #35 ANSI approved industrial roller chain with a tinsel strength of 1400 LBS.

The shafts are supported one both sides by 2 life time lubricated and rubber sealed deep grove ball bearings. The shafts are made by the good people at IDIDIT and are 3/4" 36 spline they are welded to laser cut sprockets on an custom automated welding machine.

The housing is made from a custom extruded aluminum tube that is first cut to length, the ends shaped, formed end caps are welded in place, then back in to the cnc. The finished housing is extremely tough. When it comes to mounting there is no need to weld or drill and tap. There 4 through holes on the face of the housing that are sleeved to take 3/8" bolts that must be used for mounting. If you measure 3 1/ 4" down from the center of the shaft you have a center line of the holes and they are 2 1/2" apart and the other end is the same. We make them in 5 sizes, 8" 10" 12" 14" 16". When mounted right there should be no axial/Torsional twisting.If there was a small amount the box would act as a large gusset and eliminate it. But I can say that it would take an awful lot to twist the box. We have found that there is almost no forces transmitted to the box, all forces go through the box, I say this because when you hook-up a box you can hold it by hand before you put in the bolts and turn the wheels lock to lock and not have it try to twist it out of your hand.
 
Sounds good so far Dave, I have a couple more questions. After this is mounted, do you have drill thru holes in the 3/4 36 spline section for a roll pin or setscrew? Is this spline heattreated? Do you have a Radius Toothed spline instead of a Sharptoothed spline?

Agian, thank you for your information on the the SteerClear. That double roller on Zach's 32 is awesome.....I like it. Dave, is your a doubleroller or singleroller? I have experienced HyVol chains in some applications....due to their extremely thick nature, they seem impervious to stretch, even in driveline applications in transmissions. Do you offer a show version, with a HyVol or doubleroller, in a semi open state? Alot of these cars have the appeal that they are show cars.....lots of detail and lots of chrome. Details such as chains enclosed might have a big appeal for some folks! Especially if chromed or nichol plated...and can you make these with special dimensions and special features?
 
Hi Screaming Metal, No the shafts for Steer Clear are not drilled for setscrews. This would limit the installer being able to index the u-joint on the box, but I am glad that you brought it up because that is one thing that needs to be done on all steering u-joints with setscrews during installation weather you use Steer Clear or not. The splines on our shafts are sharp. We use a single strand chain. As far as a show finish we do offer Steer Clear in a beautiful polished finish.

When it comes to the open look of zack normans 32, I agree that it looks cool, but I have to say that it is a case of sacrificing safety for looks, To have a system like this open is just asking for trouble. If any road debris was to be kicked up and found its way to the chain and sprocket it could cause a jam!!! I also don't like the fact that the top shaft and idler are only supported on one side of the sprocket, although this could work fine it does allow for some flexing, when the steering is under a load the sprockets want to pull towards each other causing slack in the chain, although that unit appears to look very strong so I can't say that it will flex. With the totally enclosed housing that Steer Clear has this can not happen.

I hate to think that when a chain drive steering is considered that people will think of the 2 examples posted above I am sure that a lot of people will agree that they look like an accident waiting to happen. This is not the case with Steer Clear.

I am proud to say that most of our sales are a result of word of mouth. People love the extra room that they can get buy it's use, and the way it performs. The next time you get in your "T" look at the floor and think how it would be to have the column located above your toes. I hope that someone that has first hand experience with Steer Clear will jump in and give their views of how it works. Thanks again Dave
 
I am at the point now where i am trying to figure out some steering and pedal problems. I found this device called steerclear from speedway, i like the idea of it but the price is a little scary has anyone ever used this product and is there anything else out there that will help to fit size 13 shoes down to the pedals?????

I read through all of the responses and appreciate the designer of the steer clear giving us insight into his device. I saw it in Speedways catalog too and like most on here I have a distrust of using a chain in the steering system. I wanted more foot room also and did some research and found the answer for what I was looking for. Posies manufactures a steering offset box in either a 5" or 10" offset and it is a billet case with an all gear transition, no chains! I figured that it was easy to mount and it should be as safe as the steering box because it is all gears too. Here is a link to their web page that has info on it and I am using a small cage type mounting bracket that is attached to the firewall with 1/4" aluminum plate on each side to reinforce it and can attach it to the frame if I want with a couple of L shaped brackets, looks like your usual aluminum fire wall, maybe a little beefier. Using an 18" Borgeson column mounted almost horizontal so it is very similar to a late model car in look and location and tons of room compared to the through the floor design that was in it and added a quick disconnect to the steering wheel like on a race car for even more room if needed, actually have way more room than needed! Hope this helps! It is also in the same price range. No pics yet as I am not finished.
http://www.posiesrodsandcustoms.com/super_slide_springs/featured_products/offset-steering-box/
 

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