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T Bucket Build Thread

paralell to the rear crossmenber equal distance from backing plates to frame
 
I mean how do I line the rear end up?

You need to know where the rear end goes front to back, left to right, the up angle of the pinion yoke, and if it is square with the front axle. Front to back it looks like (from your photo) the shock mounts on the rear end go directly below those on the frame, assuming that the rear end shock mounts are already welded to the axle tubes. Right to left, the outside flanges of the axle housings or the outside faces of the axles or the outside face of the brake drums should be equidistant from the outsides of the frame. Depending on your rear end the differential yoke may or may not be centered left to right within the frame rails. Don't worry about it, do as above. In theory the up angle of the pinion yoke should be the compliment of the down angle of the transmission output shaft. I'll leave that up to you, just know that not everybody gets too excited if they don't meet this standard, myself included. As for squaring the front and rear axles to each other, that is far easier to do once you have all 4 tires on the car and it is on the ground. You can do it now, but you are going to need the car to be dead level in both directions (not torpedo level accuracy, get a 6 foot level or better) and the floor has to be dead flat and preferably as level as the car on jack stands. And remember, as with everything T-bucket, this only one way to do things, not the only way.
 
It needs to be centered under the frame and the same distance to each front tire. Front to back is to taste. Move it front to rear and stand back and look at it. Did Ron make shock and radius rod mounts when he built the frame? John
 
The radius rods will let you get some adjustment. Where are you at in this part of the project ? pics help.
 
I hontesly did not know that there was a right way to put those spindles on.. I thought both ways would of worked.. I will recheck tomorrow night when I get home..
 
If the spindles are upside down, When the tire is bolted on the tops of the tires will be closer to each other. Causing the tread on the inner side to wear really bad.

You want zero camber almost...............(if they are upside down you will have negative camber really bad)
 

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well i didnt get much done.. Got home last night and the power was out.. OHH THE JOY.. Going home tonight to take the transmission and put it up and clean the hell out of it.. I am going to get it mocked into place and also getting the engine block on sunday to get it mocked into place.. Ordering the motor mounts today from ron..
 
Ah, brings back such memories...stark terror, suicidal thoughts, imminent divorce. Seriously, all of us who built from scratch know what you might encounter. Ask away, there is a fount of bucket knowledge here. Bucketheads are the most outgoing helpful bunch of rodders around. Tip #1: bring the wife flowers every couple weeks, just because you "appreciate what a great gal she is."

The rear end: make sure the frame is square (corner to diagonal corner is the same), then the rear end needs to be square to the frame. I measure from center of front crossmember to each end of the axle. And center the rear end front to back in the bed (my personal preference) and of course side to side. Measure everything, sketch it, take it to bed and look at it until you are sure. Why, I've done my best work in bed. :rolleyes:
 
Well nothing got done this weekend.. Just sat back and relaxed and thought about Our Fallen Heros.. and thank every solider i could see.. Still waiting on the rear end to come.. Finally got the my engine block to mock up with the trans..

Another question How do i put the trans misson in? Do i bolt it in to place where the cross member is? If so what do i use to bolt it in?
 
The picture of your frame shows a trans mount hanging down from the cross member, but I can't tell if it is removable. If it isn't, I would cut it out and remake it so it is removable. If you want to change a torque converter or get the trans out for any reason and that trans mount isn't removable you are going to have a large project on your hands. Don't ask me how I know. After that you will have to buy a pad that goes between the mount and the transmission. Two bolts go into the bottom of the pad from the mount on the frame, and two more go through the top of the pad into the transmission. The pads will generally have rubber or neoprene or some other substance captured between two pieces of steel, or one piece of steel at the top and threaded inserts on the bottom. In any case this substance must be as flexible as your motor mounts or more so. If it is stiffer and the motor mounts will allow the engine to rotate say 3/4" when you jump on it, and the trans mount will only rotate 1/8", something is going to give, and it is usually the trans case.
 
Yes i agree with the other guys as well.................. Get the body sat on the frame where you want it with the rearend bolted in so you dont have to buy 2 sets of wheels !
 

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