Tapered frame rails

[Youngster]

I'm going to replace the pics I deleted last week. You'll have to ckick back and forth to get the text. Sorry for the inconvenience. Pics for post #1;

 

[Youngster]

Here's the pics from post #2;

 

[Youngster]

Here's the pics for post #4;

 

[Youngster]

Here's the pics for post #8;

You will have to grind clearence for the inside radius on the ends of the front cross member. Be sure to make a refrence mark on the tube.

Using a tri square with two heads is the best way to ensure the tubes are stacked directly on top of each other. I use 2 of these on each section before clamping the stack down.

 

[Youngster]

Here's the pics for post #11;

 

[Youngster]

The thumbnails in post #17 were originally in post #13. One thing I didn't mention is that the perch is just tacked at 7 degrees. I prefer not to finish weld it 'til the chassis is at ride heigth.

Again, sorry for the inconvenience.

Ron

 

[all-world1]

Great photos Ron and thanks for posting them. That's the nicest looking spring perch I've seen yet.

 

[all-world1]

Here's the pics for post #8;

You will have to grind clearence for the inside radius on the ends of the front cross member. Be sure to make a refrence mark on the tube.

Using a tri square with two heads is the best way to ensure the tubes are stacked directly on top of each other. I use 2 of these on each section before clamping the stack down.

Ron, just a little confused....if you've removed 3/4" for the wedge, you are left with 2 1/4", yet there is no wrap around the 2" front crossmember.

 

[Youngster]

I weld the joint first and then add the wrap. I guess you could say the wrap is just for looks. On Chucks frame I used a piece of 10g. for the wrap. The cross member is a 2" piece of DOM. If you add the wrap, 1/8" X2, to the 2" DOM you get 2-1/4" That's the reason I went for a 3/4" wedge.

Ron

 

[all-world1]

OK Ron, I see how you're doing the wrap.

As you know, I'll be cutting a 1" wedge. Let's see if I've got this right before I screw it up.... The wedge thickness (1") will be measured at a point 1" away from the front of the rail. Therefore the wedge will end up just slightly larger than 1" at the very front of the rail.

 

[Youngster]

yup.. You got it. If you are going to do the wrap, you want to double the thickness of the wrap and subtract that from the wedge 1" from the end of the tube. In other words, 1/8" wrap times 2 is 1/4". 1/4" from 1" is 3/4". That's what the wedge should be 1" from the end of the tube.

Ron

 

[all-world1]

Decided to go without the wrap. I kinda like how the front tube looks in the pic that goes with post #11.