The excitement is building

[Island Girl]

Are you planning on hard lines or flexible?

Good to see you have already put some thought into a plan. Like you said, it's subject to change, but it's always nice to have something to go by.

Looks like next summer and you will be flying low with your hair on fire!!!

I have AN fittings for the trans and cooler, so braided planned for there . . will have to see what the engine vacuum is like to see if I need a vac can or any special treatment for the booster

Will probably just go with 3/8 rubber for the vacuum line for the booster if possible.

Fuel lines will probably be stainless, aluminum would be a lot easier, but stainless will last soooo much longer and be maint free here in this challenging climate

 

[Ronson]

I have AN fittings for the trans and cooler, so braided planned for there . . will have to see what the engine vacuum is like to see if I need a vac can or any special treatment for the booster

Will probably just go with 3/8 rubber for the vacuum line for the booster if possible.

Fuel lines will probably be stainless, aluminum would be a lot easier, but stainless will last soooo much longer and be maint free here in this challenging climate

 

[Ronson]

What a wonderful way to start the new year. You are going to have fun. You probably won't be able to sleep until the T is drivable. I have a twin turbos with 2 fours on mine and it's very exciting. I can't imagine what that 632 is going to be like. Best of luck with it and a happy new year.

 

[Island Girl]

Thanks again guys, for all the encouragement . . .

And just to prove once again in life, that no good deed goes unpunished: . . . .

I went to put the pull the motor up off the crate's 2X12's and onto an engine stand to install the flex plate and starter and all . . . .

and my universal lifting plate seems to be universal to everything but Dominator size mounting flanges . . . .

As usual lately, Summit to the rescue . . . they have one that fits the big Holley, so I'll have another go at it next weekend . .

In the meantime, I guess the best I can do is make the vroom vroom sound and use my imagination . .


Darlene

 

[HenrysT]

I would go with something like this...
Strongway Engine Hoist Leveler — 1,500-Lb. Capacity | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[409T]

@EX JUNK has the best ones. Maybe he'll share.

 

[Island Girl]

I would go with something like this...
Strongway Engine Hoist Leveler — 1,500-Lb. Capacity | Northern Tool + Equipment

GMTA,
I actually have this one already . . . the chains just weren't anywhere near long enough though, (and I didn't have any grade 8 bolts the right size either) so it didn't help at the time.


I stopped at Home Depot this morning to walk off a big McDonalds breakfast and had a hot flash to get some new/longer chains while I was there, as I had already gotten an assortment of grade 8 bolts at the Ace earlier in the week.

If the weather dries up a bit, I may have another go at it this afternoon.

Bits of the crate base block the cherry picker from sliding in far enough, so I'll maybe have to set the lift up on concrete blocks to get it above the 2X4's on the sides of the crate bottom.

And likely additionally, remove the 2X4's altogether . . .

 

[2old2fast]

You could support the engine weight with the hoist adequately to cut the pallet away with a sawzall

 

[Island Girl]

Well . . .

This afternoon was an adventure from hell . . .

Lifted the motor up off the pallet/crate base, and cleared all the wood and scraps away, (that was the end of the easy part) and tried to put it on one of those little engine cradles so I could turn it around and re-lift it, to put it on a regular engine stand.

The little cradle thing turned out to be a total POS, (and I don't mean Plate Of Spaghetti) had to drill out the rear holes for the bell housing dowel pins, and couldn't get but 1 rear and 1 front bolt on each side to line up to the block. The thing's welded all skewed to hell and crocked as a dog's hind leg.

But it held the motor without collapsing or bending, so as fate would have it . . . that turned out to be the one blessing of the afternoon.

So I got the motor turned around and jacked back up in the air to put it on a nice new stand to work on it . . . .

Had to make some little tweaks to get the stand legs to slide in under the lift's legs, but that was easy enough. Cinder blocks and 2X4's are your friends.

Now I bolt the motor up to the stand and start to let down on the lift . . .The motor gets to a nice level position and I let the lift down a little more, and the motor leans down more , let the lift down a little more again, and the motor leans down a little more again, so I'm thinking that this really sucks big time as I'm having a WTF moment, and look to see going on . . . .

The nice new stand, rated for like 1500 or 2000 lbs, has a head fixture with thin, cheesy, totally inadequate, 1" box tubing that can't manage 500 lbs, much less the 750 that the BBC weighs . . . .

So now I gotta jerk that off and go back to the little POS cradle, cuz with all the pallet bits dismantled, that's all I have now to put it on.

I'm so tired of jackin' shit up and jerkin' shit off, that I've declared it Jack Daniels and Aleve time.

 

[Indycars]

he nice new stand, rated for like 1500 or 2000 lbs, has a head fixture with thin, cheesy, totally inadequate, 1" box tubing that can't manage 500 lbs, much less the 750 that the BBC weighs . . . .

Will you be able to just replace the 1 inch tubing without going for a completely new stand?

 

[Indycars]

FYI .........

I noticed you have a similar situation to mine last year, bolt for the harmonic balancer. The
head of the bolt is barely larger than the split locker washer. After the engine was built and
installed, a few years later I was trying to check the bolt for torque. It just kept turning, so I
thought it was stripped, when actually it was spitting the lock washer out.

Now I have a quality ARP bolt for that purpose !!! ARP doesn't use a split lock washer, only
a machined flat washer.

 

[Island Girl]

Will you be able to just replace the 1 inch tubing without going for a completely new stand?

I've started looking to see if I can't just find a whole new set of heavy duty head mounting hardware, this mess was so poorly designed that I really have to start from scratch. You really can't fix some things . . . . Funny part is, I started looking a couple weeks ago, I knew this was bad just from looking at it when I got it.

Worst case is that I'll have to fab up something, which is after all, what hot rodding's all about . .

A new ARP balancer bolt to replace that plain grade 8 one is on my list. They have several different head diameters available so I can get the right one that torques properly.

I'm kinda temped to change to a fluidamper or one of the premium SFI balancers, but I gotta see how the cash flow is.

I need to measure the ID of the balancer next time I untarp it.

 

[Indycars]

I'm kinda temped to change to a fluidamper or one of the premium SFI balancers, but I gotta see how the cash flow is.

Yah, the Fluidampr is what I bought to replace the Professional Products balancer ($80) I had
on from the original build when money was tight. Some people like the ATI Rattler.

 

[Island Girl]

Yah, the Fluidampr is what I bought to replace the Professional Products balancer ($80) I had
on from the original build when money was tight. Some people like the ATI Rattler.

I run a Fluidampr with dual 1/4" keyways on the big block blower motor. It has to turn the blower pulley as well as alternator pulley and crank trigger wheel, we flogged the hell out of it on the dyno, lot of pulley combos and higher boost with race gas just for fun.

The last pull felt just as smooth on the stick as the first one.

I knew guys that ran the ATI and it was trouble free as well, but I'll go with another Fluidampr if I change it out.

I ordered the ARP balancer bolt, that's a do-right-away mod.

 

[Indycars]

I run a Fluidampr with dual 1/4" keyways on the big block blower motor.

I hate to think about that motor in your TBucket, but it sure sounds like some scary fun !

What were some of the numbers? Or not if you want to return to the original topic!

 

[Island Girl]

I hate to think about that motor in your TBucket, but it sure sounds like some scary fun !

What were some of the numbers? Or not if you want to return to the original topic!

Going from memory here, as the dyno sheets are in storage in Houston along with the motor.

It was built as a river racer motor for a Hondo T deck flat bottom K boat.

Big Comp solid roller cam setup, HP was low 900's on 93 octane pump gas with ~5psi boost with 20% under drive on the blower.

Straight up on the blower gave mid/upper 1100's with 118 race gas.

Peak HP was @ 7800 or 8000 with higher boost, has the Comp shaft rocker setup and MSD 7AL box with boost retartds and other controls

It's a BRC crank, Oliver rods Dart heads, JE pistons, with solid copper head gaskets with a stainless steel wire O ring for each cylinder.

The blower is a magnesium case Littlefield, 14-71 with a Mike Dunn offset distributor to make space for the long blower length.

Pair of reworked1050 Dominators on top from DiVinci carbs.

It's super as a raceboat motor, where you can use the higher rpm range, but would suck as a street driven motor.

The 632 peaked at a very streetable 6200.

 

[Indycars]

Did you ever race at lake Overholser in Oklahoma City ??? What was the name of your boat?

 

[Jim B]

I used to live in OKC as well and watched them race out there. Small world.

 

[Island Girl]

I didn't race the SDBA circuit, too expensive and time consuming . . I was just a weekend warrior on the San Jacinto when I could make the time.

When they raced at Marble Falls, I could usually make that trip. as it was the closest.

You had to love skinny dip cove . . .

 

[Jim B]

What's not to love?