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Trans. cooler question

RD1071

New Member
Happy New Year to all!

I have a T-bucket project underway and am looking for some advice on trans coolers.

First the basic info:
Stroked 350 @ 470 HP
2004r trans with 2400 stall converter
Walker Cobra 2 row radiator

I am intending to utilize the radiator trans cooler section but want to know what would be the best choice of an aux. cooler to run inline and under body.
 
If you are using a 200R you better get all the cooling that you can get. I learned this from a pro mechanic and street rod builder. The NEED cooling. The rad "cooler" is NOT the best way to go. There are numerous types of coolers on the market that are FAR better than the one on the radiator. IMHO

Jim
 
If you are using a 200R you better get all the cooling that you can get. I learned this from a pro mechanic and street rod builder. The NEED cooling. The rad "cooler" is NOT the best way to go. There are numerous types of coolers on the market that are FAR better than the one on the radiator. IMHO

Jim

I know the rad cooler is not going to suffice as my only option. I am looking for suggestions for an aux cooler to run inline with the rad.
 
I know the rad cooler is not going to suffice as my only option. I am looking for suggestions for an aux cooler to run inline with the rad.
Here is a picture of what I used with my Turbo 350. If I had a 200R I would series up at least two of them.

IMG_0652.jpg


Jim
 
It might even benefit you to get one of these...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70297/
I have the Derale version of that cooler and it is schweeet! I'm running a 3200 stall convertor and on hot days in city traffic I found that with a passive cooler like Jim has I wasn't getting enough cooling. I have a trans temp gauge and I was seeing temps in excess of 250. With the Derale I have never seen anything over about 190, even in a stop-and-go parade situation on a 90+ day.
 
I have the Derale version of that cooler and it is schweeet! I'm running a 3200 stall convertor and on hot days in city traffic I found that with a passive cooler like Jim has I wasn't getting enough cooling. I have a trans temp gauge and I was seeing temps in excess of 250. With the Derale I have never seen anything over about 190, even in a stop-and-go parade situation on a 90+ day.
Lee, I totally agree with your choice as you have a 3200 stall convertor and it generates a lot more heat than my convertor.

Jim
 
I'm not going to tell you that you don't have to run an aux cooler, but I do have to tell you of my experience.

I have a 700R4 with a 2400 stall lockup converter and a Ron Davis 2 row aluminum radiator. I tow a trailer with mine and have made a few trips in the mountains with the trailer. I'm also using the built in trans cooler as my only cooler. I have a trans temp gage in the pan. My engine thermostat is 180 and the car runs about that or less 99% of the time and has hit 200 twice. Both times were after extended idling in traffic. My engine is about 120 HP less than yours. As many will tell you, I have the worst trans cooling setup you can have.

However, my trans temp rarely ever gets over 160 with the converter locked. Converter lock does make a difference. Trans temp will go up 10 to 15 degrees unlocked. Of course the trans temp follows engine temp, but as long as the engine temp is under control the trans temp will be too. Remember, the trans cooler is on the coolest side of the radiator.

Can't say if your results would be the same, but my personal observation tells me I don't need the extra cooler.

Mike
 
Extremely nice setup:thumbsup:
I like how you tie your front and rear radius rods together, looks great plus a safety net feature too.
 
Thanks to everyone for the input. I like the setup Jerry posted and will probably move in that direction.
 
I would definetly run an extra cooler, even a 2 pass like Ex-junk has is way better than just the radiator one, or nothing at all. , especially with some decent HP and a high stall . ( just my observations from the past.)
 
Coolers are cool....run a inline filter also, they are cheap, cost wise and are cheap insurance against wear. Also, its a good idea to run a thermostat inline. Thats the reason why the stock coolers are run thru the radiator....to run at a constant steady temp for best performance. Ever notice a cold trans slips some? Thats why....
Its imperative to run a cooler anytime any performance mods are made....especially a slippery converter....A automatic transmission is just a big hydraulic pump....slipping of those clutches and bands does put microscopic giblets into your trans fluid. The extermal filter that you can put inline that looks like a inline fuel filter will help keep your main filter in your pan cleaner....so you can go longer without dropping your transpan.
 
Jerry, what do you guys use for your body to frame "gasket"?
Well, what I've been doing is using 1/8 welting (the kind they use in the kit cars) between the frame and the body. My frame is 2"x 3" x 3/16's Rectangular tubing. I don't have the external body mounts, I have 4 small rectangular plates 1/4 thick, with a flathead bolt, countersunk into the plate and welded. I hit the 2"x 4" plates on the brakepress just to put a little X in them to keep them from bowing. The carpet covers the plates up nicely....there is a slight bump, but nothing real noticeable.
In the frame, I have 4 mounting holes drilled thru the frame. The hole in the lower frame is bigger so I can get my flangenut and socket thru the lower frame member. Then I use jamnuts on top of the flangenuts.
After securing the body to the frame, I pop in 4 rubber plugs to keep crap out....done deal....no external frame mounts.
 
I'm running a heavily modified 327 by Rick Santos with a T350. Mounted a finned cooler inside the passenger side about 12" behind the tranny and ran ss braided lines with inline filter. No thermostat in line but I always warm up for 10min. before taking off.
 

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